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Old 08-06-2009, 09:09 PM
  #9751  
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thanks
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:54 PM
  #9752  
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Mini Racer 95,

No problems.

Jim,

Are you purchasing your 3Racing tyres as prebuilt units? Or are you assembling them with your own inserts.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:11 PM
  #9753  
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Austin, stick with the Tamiya diffs. They work and they're "legal."

Calvin, I'm buying the loose tires. They come with a cheap, soft foam insert that seems to work well enough. It would be interesting to see how they work with different inserts though.

Jim
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:44 AM
  #9754  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
Regarding ball diffs I have found that they might start off smooth and tight when first assembled, with or without extra cone washers, 1150 bearing etc. However after a few runs they becomenotchy, not sure why this is but it has happened to most of mine, even when using lots of anti-wear grease. Perhaps the balls get flat spots when they tensioned down. This is using only the balls provided in the ball diffs.

I am trialling a tight gear diff for now. This appears to remain smooth after many runs.
Calvin.
I did work experience at school with Titan motorsport. They make car performance parts and when i was there i found that normally its the other way round. The system will run better after being run not when brand new because there are machining tolerances when things are made. When the parts are assembled they may be 0.1mm too big which may not seem like alot of difference but with car parts and all the tolerances adding up it can be quite a difference. When the parts are run a couple of hundred revs such as when you start the engine the parts will wear themselves out and fit perfectly and run smoother. Perhaps on this smaller scale they dont wear and run in properly compared to full size cars and almost jam up a bit. I dont know much about mini racing but maybe if you continue to run your rougher diffs they might smooth out again as they wear down.
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:33 AM
  #9755  
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Does anyone know the part number for the larger cone washers in the TA03 ball diff?
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:47 AM
  #9756  
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Originally Posted by 6677
I did work experience at school with Titan motorsport. They make car performance parts and when i was there i found that normally its the other way round. The system will run better after being run not when brand new because there are machining tolerances when things are made. When the parts are assembled they may be 0.1mm too big which may not seem like alot of difference but with car parts and all the tolerances adding up it can be quite a difference. When the parts are run a couple of hundred revs such as when you start the engine the parts will wear themselves out and fit perfectly and run smoother. Perhaps on this smaller scale they dont wear and run in properly compared to full size cars and almost jam up a bit. I dont know much about mini racing but maybe if you continue to run your rougher diffs they might smooth out again as they wear down.
I find this to be true of my gear diff, as the part wear into each other it really smooths out.

But in a ball diff for any RC car, it seems to get grittier over time and loose it's smooth action. this may be because a any small grit can get into the ball diff. and even a .001 mm difference could be felt.
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:31 AM
  #9757  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
sim600,

With the standard MO5 kit using the plastic front knuckles you only use a short 5mm ball stud.

It is only when you fit the Alloy MO5 front knuckles that you have to use the tall 5mm ball stud. This is because the MO5 alloy knuckle is the same as the MO3R knuckle.

The plastic MO5 knuckle is of a completely new design and has the arm located towards the top of the knuckle.

Regards,

Calvin.
hey calvin,

is it confirm the m03r knuckle its the same as a m05pro? if that its the same, than i don need to get another pairs of those. thanks for the feedback.

becos they both have different parts number
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:23 PM
  #9758  
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does 3 racing make arms for the m03
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:05 PM
  #9759  
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Jim,

Thanks for the info on the three racing tyres. Might have to try a set for carpet.

edwintklee,

Yes they are the same knuckle. The extra parts in the packet are different. The MO3R front knuckles come with steering linkages, the MO5 do not.

Mini Racer 95,

Yes 3Racing make an aluminium front and rear lower arm for a MO3. Part numbers: MO3M-03/LB Front: MO3M-10/LB Rear.

Or you can get Spice/Tech Racing one piece plastic arms: Spice Part No SPT-303. This comes with two front and two rear arms.

The only consideration is that some events will not let you run these parts as they are not made by Tamiya as a Hop up.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:37 PM
  #9760  
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thanks, can you get them on rc mart
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:39 PM
  #9761  
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does anybody know any good hobbyshops that ship to canada
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Old 08-08-2009, 03:27 AM
  #9762  
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www.muchhobby.com

in the Toronto area

have a nice day!
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:24 AM
  #9763  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
edwintklee,

Yes they are the same knuckle. The extra parts in the packet are different. The MO3R front knuckles come with steering linkages, the MO5 do not.


Regards,

Calvin.
hey man thanks, look like i get to save some parts from m03R after all...
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:54 AM
  #9764  
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Tower Hobbies
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:19 AM
  #9765  
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Default Carpet tyre question

On carpet I use the Tamiya radial S-Grip (front #50684) & M-Grip (rear #53254) with success.
I'm curious to know how the Tamiya slicks perform on carpet because I happen to have a set of Tamiya Super Slicks (#53222), 60D slicks Type-A (#53340) & a set of slicks which look smaller in diameter #53215.

Can someone tell me please if they have had any luck on carpet with these slicks and maybe if they are perhaps similar to the above mentioned radials I use?

John
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