Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 08-08-2009, 08:17 AM
  #9766  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Mini Racer 95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 78
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

yah i did have succes with slicks and radials on the back


thanks for the websites i will check them out
Mini Racer 95 is offline  
Old 08-08-2009, 09:10 AM
  #9767  
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,974
Default

Originally Posted by Mr_Gleeman
On carpet I use the Tamiya radial S-Grip (front #50684) & M-Grip (rear #53254) with success.
I'm curious to know how the Tamiya slicks perform on carpet because I happen to have a set of Tamiya Super Slicks (#53222), 60D slicks Type-A (#53340) & a set of slicks which look smaller in diameter #53215.

Can someone tell me please if they have had any luck on carpet with these slicks and maybe if they are perhaps similar to the above mentioned radials I use?

John
Keep in mind my mini is RWD (M02).

I have tried the 60D A slicks from Tamiya with hard foam inserts. They didn't work. Car spun all over the place.

Long story short S grips from Tamiya worked best. I have tried all the radials from Tamiya and then some. The next best were the HPI cross pattern radials. Car is still very tail happy out of corners but with a delicate trigger finger it works. Hard foam inserts.

I have asked severealtimes here but it seems nobody knows what to do, so here you go, this is the best I know.
niznai is offline  
Old 08-08-2009, 01:01 PM
  #9768  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,326
Default

I was reading up on why the TGP racers all took the rear braces off. They mentioned that this was pretty much a no-brainer mod. Was kinda bored so I did some testing with them. With the braces off, my lap average decreased by 0.2sec. Could be the effect of the decreased weight and added chassis flex?
redbones is offline  
Old 08-08-2009, 02:10 PM
  #9769  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
CSaddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 332
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I just bought a set of slicks for my M03 to run on asphalt tomorrow. I haven't mounted them yet and I think they may wear out too fast to finish the day....think I should return them for the radial type? I may just try them but dont want to waste the $20.
CSaddict is offline  
Old 08-08-2009, 05:57 PM
  #9770  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
 
Mr_Gleeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 262
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by niznai
Keep in mind my mini is RWD (M02).

I have tried the 60D A slicks from Tamiya with hard foam inserts. They didn't work. Car spun all over the place.

Long story short S grips from Tamiya worked best. I have tried all the radials from Tamiya and then some. The next best were the HPI cross pattern radials. Car is still very tail happy out of corners but with a delicate trigger finger it works. Hard foam inserts.

I have asked severealtimes here but it seems nobody knows what to do, so here you go, this is the best I know.
Thanks niznai, yes I'm afraid the jury is still out on the slicks on carpet scenario. I did drive on carpet once with a set of Tamiya slicks a friend lent me and it felt no different to the S&M-Grip radials!
I have ordered some of the 3Racing 60D's mentioned earlier on the thread for carpet.
I'm always open to experimentation
Mr_Gleeman is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 03:28 AM
  #9771  
Dan
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
 
Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,369
Trader Rating: 76 (100%+)
Default

For those with the M-Chassis TRF Shocks (#54000), I have a question about the springs that are included.

The set includes 3 spring sets. White springs with yellow marking, white springs with blue marking, and then there are red springs.

I'm looking at Tower and I see four short springs listed.

Red - Soft - 53630
Yellow - Medium - 53631
Blue - Hard - 53632
White - Extra Hard - 53633

Do the included springs coincide with any of those part numbers? I'm assuming the red ones aren't the same since its longer for the M04, but both the white spring pairs have me confused. I'm ordering more springs but I don't want to order ones I may potentially already have.
Dan is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 04:00 AM
  #9772  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
 
caltek1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,422
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Dan,

The springs in the 54000 Mini TRF Shocks are as such:

fluro red soft (from 53333 short spring set)
Yellow - Medium - 53631 (white with yellow mark)
Blue - Hard - 53632 (white with blue mark)

The red and white are seperate springs. The fluro red is the soft spring from the 53333 short spring set which are:

fluro blue- hard
fluro yellow-medium
fluro red- soft

Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 08-09-2009 at 04:02 AM. Reason: amend text
caltek1 is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 04:08 AM
  #9773  
Dan
Tech Champion
iTrader: (76)
 
Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,369
Trader Rating: 76 (100%+)
Default

Thanks a bunch Cal! Just saved me a little cash as I almost ordered the "same" springs.
Dan is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 01:19 PM
  #9774  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Mini Racer 95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 78
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

hey guys what kind of dampers would you think to run on carpet
Mini Racer 95 is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 06:44 PM
  #9775  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
 
caltek1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,422
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Austin,

I run the same dampers that I run on asphelt/concrete tracks as what I do on carpet. I normally don't change anything but the tyres and ride height.

BTW,

I don't race a great deal on carpet. Others may run softer spring setups, that is all.

Regards,

Calvin.
caltek1 is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 08:54 PM
  #9776  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Mini Racer 95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 78
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

thanks for the tip
Mini Racer 95 is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 09:35 PM
  #9777  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Finished building the M05 on Friday and ran it on Saturday. Overall impressions were these.

1. What a PITA it was to build compared to the M03. There's twice as many little parts and plastic pieces. Maintenance will be much more difficult and time consuming. The ball diff is going to need tightening on my car and looks like you have to do an almost complete tear down to get to the transmission.

2. I was a little concerned about the steering. but it works beautifully. Gone is the dreaded bump steer. although I never found it to be a problem on the M03. The suspension doesn't move more than a mm or two so it was really not the big deal some made it out to be.

3. Out of the box the car has a ton of steering, but it never got loose. The back end pretty much stays planted. After juggling tire combinations around a bit, it got around the Tamiya track faster than my M03.

4. The M05 is much easier to drive and is much "smoother". It also is much more predictable to set up changes.

The car was an M05 Pro and the only changes were TRF shocks, TA03 ball diff and universals rather than the dog bones. I'm planning on getting another one soon, but will just get the standard version. A much better buy in my opinion. Also we can only use Tamiya tires and box stock Silvercans. I did put in a faster motor late in the day and the car did "push" when I did that. Changed to a different tire and insert combination and the "push" was gone.

Hope this helps those contemplating purchasing a M05
Granpa is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 09:39 PM
  #9778  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (39)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 633
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Ok, just got myself a set of Tamiya M-chassis aluminum shocks. Are there any tips to building them or just as per the instructions? they will be going on an M-03 for mainly asphalt. Any tips appreciated.
$$$... is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 09:47 PM
  #9779  
Tech Master
 
tamiyarcracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,633
Default

Originally Posted by Granpa
Finished building the M05 on Friday and ran it on Saturday. Overall impressions were these.

1. What a PITA it was to build compared to the M03. There's twice as many little parts and plastic pieces. Maintenance will be much more difficult and time consuming. The ball diff is going to need tightening on my car and looks like you have to do an almost complete tear down to get to the transmission.
I think it is funny how everyone is saying it is a pain to get at the diff.

4 screws for the front bumper (same as M03)

2 screws for one side of the steering (1 for the servo one the M03)

4 screws on the front of the chassis and 2 in the rear (3 on the M03 front and 2 in the rear)

front left side seperates off of the right side and rear (just like an M03)

So can someone please again tell how much more of a pain this is than the M03? 2 extra screws to get to the diff

HMMMMMMM

P.S. please lube the slot where the front sections slide over the rear sections like the instructions say. That is the only pain I have had.
tamiyarcracer is offline  
Old 08-09-2009, 10:05 PM
  #9780  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Granpa
Finished building the M05 on Friday and ran it on Saturday. Overall impressions were these.

1. What a PITA it was to build compared to the M03. There's twice as many little parts and plastic pieces. Maintenance will be much more difficult and time consuming. The ball diff is going to need tightening on my car and looks like you have to do an almost complete tear down to get to the transmission.
I thought the same as you but I found it is just as quick if not quicker than the M03.

You follow these steps:

1. Take the front bumper off

2. Disconnect the servo rod

3. Separate the steering linkage by taking out one screw

4. Remove one of the screws from the underside of the rear chassis part . This screw is the one that screws the rear section to the front.

5. Take out the 4 screws in the front right half of the chassis

You can now slide the right hand section of the front chassis section off.

It took about 5 minutes to do

No doubt I have left something out but it is very easy to do
cannon is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.