4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
03-28-2011, 11:53 AM
#4441
Tech Apprentice
i get what you mean,
but is it the rotor gets that high 200C i am not sure,
as the gap was Air, unlike Brushed Motor Which is the rotor itself is
the one had Coils and get's Heat's up.
so i think the primary reason is the coil coating melt temp's and stator,
seal. for some how deform in low Temp's Compares to Rotor's able to heat.
but i guess maintain temp's is the best under 80C at the out side to
classic check.
but is it the rotor gets that high 200C i am not sure,
as the gap was Air, unlike Brushed Motor Which is the rotor itself is
the one had Coils and get's Heat's up.
so i think the primary reason is the coil coating melt temp's and stator,
seal. for some how deform in low Temp's Compares to Rotor's able to heat.
but i guess maintain temp's is the best under 80C at the out side to
classic check.
03-28-2011, 02:20 PM
#4442
These are recommended in the instructions Novak sintered rotor:
- The temperature of the rotor's magnetic material is rated up to 200 degrees C (392 degrees F). The operating temperature of the motor should never rise above 71 degrees C (160 degrees F).-
Of course 80°C to which I referred were outside, we must always consider that inside the degrees at least doubled, so when we have 100°C outside, inside we definitely over 200°C, too many for me, for any kind of magnet.
- The temperature of the rotor's magnetic material is rated up to 200 degrees C (392 degrees F). The operating temperature of the motor should never rise above 71 degrees C (160 degrees F).-
Of course 80°C to which I referred were outside, we must always consider that inside the degrees at least doubled, so when we have 100°C outside, inside we definitely over 200°C, too many for me, for any kind of magnet.
Next time you finish a race, measure the temp right after the race, then put your car down. During the next race (say 4-5 minutes later), have someone temp your motor, and it will more then likely have risen 30-40 degs F. That would be a better idea of the internal temperature of the motor.
Shawn.
03-28-2011, 02:59 PM
#4443
No offence, you can disagree, but I personally ran X12's all last year. I had two 10.5's that lasted the whole season, and the only reason I brought a second was because I thought the rotor had possibly gone soft (it hadn't) due to the extra high temps at the aforementioned race meeting. I'm not saying 115 was what I intended to run (I was usually targeting 90-95), but it didn't have any long lasting effects on the motor's performance. I still have that motor now, and bet just as fast as any others out there.
Never had any problem with rotors, and if anything on the X12's only, the higher temp is fine for getting it to run at it's best. Make it too cool, and you loose performance. Trust me when I say I've had a whole load of experience running that motor, and am pretty sure on how to get the best out of them
I will say I was very sceptical about those motors when I first ran them last year, couldn't get the temps down below 80 without losing a lot of performance. Part of that was speedo setup, and part learning how the motor works best. X12, four dot insert, let it rev, and just ignore the higher temps.
The X12 is simply built differently, and uses different materials compared to most other motors. In some respects, it's a stock motor built like a mod, for want of a better expression!
Never had any problem with rotors, and if anything on the X12's only, the higher temp is fine for getting it to run at it's best. Make it too cool, and you loose performance. Trust me when I say I've had a whole load of experience running that motor, and am pretty sure on how to get the best out of them
I will say I was very sceptical about those motors when I first ran them last year, couldn't get the temps down below 80 without losing a lot of performance. Part of that was speedo setup, and part learning how the motor works best. X12, four dot insert, let it rev, and just ignore the higher temps.
The X12 is simply built differently, and uses different materials compared to most other motors. In some respects, it's a stock motor built like a mod, for want of a better expression!
With my Duo i notice a performance drop at the temps the x12 is still going stronge. They are bullet proof and also look it.
03-28-2011, 05:35 PM
#4445
Gotta ask a question that I think I already know the answer for...
On the weekend I had to swap back to my old SP/HW 1.1 ESC due to a failure in my HW 60A (no fault of the ESC... thanks to my cat knocking the car off the table)..
Are there any software upgrades etc for the Version 1.1 ESC?
On the weekend I had to swap back to my old SP/HW 1.1 ESC due to a failure in my HW 60A (no fault of the ESC... thanks to my cat knocking the car off the table)..
Are there any software upgrades etc for the Version 1.1 ESC?
03-28-2011, 06:13 PM
#4446
One thing I note, turbo of 2steps? it's almost not worth it...
Could try taking out some of the boost, and putting it into turbo instead (say 35 boost, and 8-10 turbo).Oh other thing... fan on the motor?
03-28-2011, 09:16 PM
#4447
Tech Apprentice
Gotta ask a question that I think I already know the answer for...
On the weekend I had to swap back to my old SP/HW 1.1 ESC due to a failure in my HW 60A (no fault of the ESC... thanks to my cat knocking the car off the table)..
Are there any software upgrades etc for the Version 1.1 ESC?
On the weekend I had to swap back to my old SP/HW 1.1 ESC due to a failure in my HW 60A (no fault of the ESC... thanks to my cat knocking the car off the table)..
Are there any software upgrades etc for the Version 1.1 ESC?
turned on your esc and click on "Software" tab See What version is your Hardware,
you might have no Update for this 1.1 version for now...
03-28-2011, 09:21 PM
#4448
Tech Apprentice
03-28-2011, 09:48 PM
#4450
Still, it's very good in my ZX5 buggy running a 7.5T motor on 2S lipos...
03-28-2011, 10:36 PM
#4451
No sorry, no 1/8th scale speedy with turbo software .
03-28-2011, 10:40 PM
#4452
03-28-2011, 10:42 PM
#4453
which firmware should work best for 12th scale 1S.
am running SP V3 4.0T motor now...
esc settings would be nice...
t-i-a
am running SP V3 4.0T motor now...
esc settings would be nice...
t-i-a
03-28-2011, 11:28 PM
#4454
Hobbywing Cut-Off Voltage 2 Protect Lipo
The Problem inside the Cut-Off found
if you run 2S
Be sure to Set Cut-Off to 8.4V with Custom
we found it is not Cell Cut-Off but it is Cell Defined,
We tested
Because of "Soft Cut-Off"
The Car still like to run until The Red Blinking and Locked The Motor.
if set to 7.4V Cut-Off with Custom,
and Keep running the car that way, will Deep Discharged The Lipo,
We found Each cell could failed to 1.9V, that's a dead Cell.
So..
8.4V Cut-Off is much safer for Saving Lipo 2S.
8.4V we found Hobbywing will Protect and Locked at 3.3v per cell.
if you run 2S
Be sure to Set Cut-Off to 8.4V with Custom
we found it is not Cell Cut-Off but it is Cell Defined,
We tested
Because of "Soft Cut-Off"
The Car still like to run until The Red Blinking and Locked The Motor.
if set to 7.4V Cut-Off with Custom,
and Keep running the car that way, will Deep Discharged The Lipo,
We found Each cell could failed to 1.9V, that's a dead Cell.
So..
8.4V Cut-Off is much safer for Saving Lipo 2S.
8.4V we found Hobbywing will Protect and Locked at 3.3v per cell.
03-29-2011, 12:18 AM
#4455
I am not sure what you want to achieve setting the voltage cutoff to 8.4v? If you set the cut off at 8.4V would the cut off not be engaged as soon as you open the throttle or at least soon after? When measuring the lipo's some are even below 8.4v (8.37 or so), even when they have been fully charged.