Originally Posted by metalracer2

anyone have any tips on how to get the rear end to hook up I'm running on asphalt with rubber
edit:: it's on a low bit track

Originally Posted by YmeBP

I'm hunting the same thing and so far this is what i've found:

Longer camber links calm the rear down on entry, outside hole on the top of the rear hub carriers and upper inside hole on the inner mount, but then i started having trouble center corner out.

Schreff suggested i move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hub carrier, and the inner middle mount, that stuck the car mid corner out like a champ, but now it gets nervous on entry.

I have 7mm ride hight, droop is set to 2mm above ride height, i have 40w oil all the way around, 15lbs springs in the front, 12.5 in the rear, front diff high, rear diff low, anti-squat in the front, low roll center in the rear. -1.75 camber in the rear and -1 in the front. 2 degree toe block and 1 degree hub carriers. I changed the jr links to reg camber links, and running 4 degrees of caster in the front c hub.

The funniest part about this is i ran my 10.5 car after the races and it was only slightly loose (because of the tires i was running i'm sure they were 6 run jaco blues), but the car was balanced over all and i could drive it wherever i wanted to. Similar setup as above w/ some exceptions, low roll center front and rear, 5mm ride height, and long camber links in the rear (outer hole on the hub carrier, and upper inner hole on the inner camber link mount).

Originally Posted by Yeti35

I currently am running 35 wt in the rear with a 15 spring, longest camber link I can get 4/B. Washer under the ballstud on the hub, running .040 sways front and rear. 2/outside on the shock position, .165 hex in the rear .195 in the front, 45 wt oil front and a 17 spring. 5mm ride height with droop 2 above, high roll center front low rear, diff high in front and rear, low roll center rear. 1.5 camber front and rear, shock postition 2 on the front tower and I run the JR link low with a washer under the ball stud on the spindle. I got this info from Larry when I was having such a hard time getting my car to hook up. It worked awesome for me on Saturday with it allowing me to get faster every round I ran. 20 laps first heat, 21 second which I set TQ with, then 22 laps in the main and beat my TQ. I was running low to mid 14 second laps on the layout we had which was only a little bit slower then what the guys running 10.5 were doing. So I was quite happy with how it worked out.

Originally Posted by Yeti35

I would say the rear since you have them out of sync. You need to even the collars up and then set ride height trying to make sure you move both evenly so the whole car goes up the same. They may not end up being exactly the same due to maybe one spring being weaker then the other but should be pretty close. If the collars in the front are equal then those are fine.

Originally Posted by Xpress

The trays are out I got mine from Horizon last week. Too bad the darn thing does not fit in the chassis. Why does everything invole breaking out the Dremel tool?

Originally Posted by YmeBP

Thanks for the tips!!

Originally Posted by Al Sodano

This question probably has been answered,just to lazy to check all the posts


What do you guys like for a lipo in the losi.I mean fit wise and access for the wiring.Thanks

Originally Posted by bigb11

does any know what spur/pinion to start with the losi 17.5 brushless system?

Originally Posted by metalracer2

yeha i also would like to know what spur and pinion u guys are running

Originally Posted by tim fry

Cool thanks for that. Are the Lipo trays counter sunk like the plastic ones so that they hold the lipo or are they just flat plates?

Thanks
Tim