bubbles

there are no real flaws to the design of the TC3, for as long as I have been racing it, I have been faster than with any other car that I have driven,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,, the only thing that I can think of really, is there is a slight ammount of torque steer right off the starting tone, none in racing but at the start of the race. the car has, and always will be a great car, to counter this in MOD, you could add weights to the right "tray", next to the motor, but in Stock it is hardley noticeable, only right when you start the race.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

The great thing about a TC3 is its ability to spank a$$ right out of the box. Funny thing is... just about any car sold today can do the same thing! It honestly comes down to the drivers experience. Any car will break in the hands of a first year beginner that "taps" the boards on a regular basis. As far as the "torque steer" goes... havent you guys ever heard of "wheelin that mofo"... or "drive it like you stole it" ?! There IS a weight imbalance with the car... solve that... set your tweak... get a neutral setup for your driving style... practice till your transmitter cries for new Duracells... and watch the trophies roll in... or something like that.
- Dave

corallyboy

i heard that the cvd bones are easily breakable?

"torque steer" flaw , thus the alex design SD motor is mounted on the left?

Fuzzy

iTrader: (4)

I've had the same aluminum cvd's on my car for three years now with no problems.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Structurally, I think the weakest part of the car is the arms and hinge pins. I broke arms and bent pins a lot when I got the car. I solved the problem by getting titanium hinge pins and a wide bumper and of course...learned to drive better. I heard some people complain too about the stock tub chassis tweaking if you hit the wall or if your motor gets really hot, but I put some epoxy in the webbed section in front of the rear diff and have never had a problem. My car is consistently Awesome week after week with minimal maintenance.

=MisFitz= NuKe

well, all you really have to do is file certain places on the diff case, so the diffs and bearings fit better, and shim it right(not to the instruction manual), other than that car is pretty flawless, maybe other people can give their .02

bubbles

the alex design is accually worse, theweb special has the battery on the left side but i havent seen one in the states yet, the TC3 has the most minimal ammount of torque steer but when you run mod, the torque steer bocomes more apperent

Boomer

One of the primary problems (and only serious problems) is the hinge pin holders are too soft and the holes will deform. Also - the steering rack is not my favorite design. It gets too dirty for my taste.

I've seen holders that have delrin inserts that are self-lubricating (delrin) and don't deform. Since toe angles and bump are controlled by these holders, you're either replacing them or putting up with toe that's slightly off.

Some have modded their chassis to allow the use of the NTC3 steering linkage. I've got a chassis that has that, but haven't tried it yet.

Otherwise, I think the car is solid, fast and very well designed.

Many are starting to mod the chassis to use the NTC3 steering and to move the batteries closer to the centerline (partly because electronics are getting lighter - the car used to be very well balanced - and partly to bring the center closer to the center. . .) You don't have to do these, but the ability is there to play with the car to make incremental improvements. I'm waiting to see AE do what Yok did and produce a different narrower chassis. . .

lem2

iTrader: (6)

All cars break, but TC3 arms and hinge pin holders break really easily. Funny thing, if only happens if you clip something lightlty. But not as much when you clip hard!

Oh well, I have broken a lot already, spend a lot, but I love my car. I have made custom Nerf Wings from a TA04 Hardened Chassis (it works) never broke a rear arm again, for almost a year!!! Replaced the front with alumiun hinge pin holders, only the front part, so something will give in. I have done the mods already to make the batt, center. Doing the batt modification does make the chassis flex a little, the IRS side Braces is not enough, waiting for my friend to bring my Warpspeed Upper Deck!

Just take note, that any car out there may have a flaw.

Peace to all!!!!!

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hey all,

I FINALLY just got the Chassis back. Sorry for the long delay.

Here they are in pics. Notice the lowered battery box and slots for cooling, weight loss and allow taping in of cells.

Ray

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Close-up of the battery box side.

TC3MIKE

Look great! But how much flex you have with it milled out? I milled my chassis just enough where my batteries are 3mm from touching the shaft.

TC3MIKE

Also how much they charge you for a milled out TC3 chassis?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Ray... great work! HMMM...that hole under the servo looks to be just the right size and close to the thickness for placement of a personal transponder servo taped/shoe gooed to the bottom of the servo...the little ears on the personal trasponder my be all that is needed to keep it in place. A little filing here for wire clearance... a little filing there for servo fitment... It would be close as heck to the racing surface ensuring a strong signal... but might open it up for some crash damage in a worst case scenario. I have had my servo lowered in my TC3 for years and was worried about crash damage... but not one incident yet. Might be worth a try for that personal transponder? Im working on a lower battery in my B4... cutting and fitting the cells in the middle position... lower in the chassis like the TC3, cutouts and all. Gotta love this hobby!
- Dave

BBSpence

iTrader: (64)

Hey Mike....i think you were pitted across from me a the Nats. Anyways, you're absolutely right. All I did was file the diff cases where they meet so the diff bearings aren't tight (took me about 5 min), and shim the ring and pinion gears so they don't bind.