jimjav

iTrader: (1)

Hello everyone,

I am having a small driving issue with the s411 since the begging, i have a lack of on throttle steering on the exit of the turn. I have tried almost everything I can think, and maybe it's driving fault, so i need help.

I run 10.5 justock ratio 5.0, Vtec 30X tyres in asphalt
S411 first units (2.5 main chasis, 2.0 top deck) Original steering rack.
Front:
1º camber, ff2 (+1mm spacer), fr1 (2mm spacer), downstops 6mm, ride height 5mm, 1.4mm antiroll bar
inner shims 2.5mm, outer shims 0
450 cst, 3 holes, orange spring, position #3
Rear:
2º camber, rf0 (no spacer), rr2.5 (0.5mm spacer), downstops 4mm, ride height 5.5mm, 1.2mm antiroll bar
inner shims 3mm, outer shims 2mm
400cst, 3 holes, yellow spring, position #5

I have tried, in the front spool, 500k, and 200k, and in the rear 1k, 1.2k and 3k.
I am using protoform P37

I know that for a stock class I should use spool in front, but I am stuck with gear diff to avoid wear in the cups.

I have in mind buying the felx deck, but I donm't know if it will help.

Any tips??


regards

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Ok your biggest issue IMO is that body. I had a number of set up issues when trialling the P37 body especially loose on exit. Get yourself either a Speed6 Mazda or an LTCR. I prefer the Mazda for a more consistent(albeit slower) lap time. I run a spool in the front and I have had little drive wear in 6 months running 17.5 boosted on asphalt. You could try out the new nylon spool from the S411 sport.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Given it's on-power exit, changing the rear of the car first is the best option. Couple of things to try, in no particular order
Harder rear bar - try 1.4mm
Flat rear blocks (0.5mm/0.5mm shim under the blocks)
Rear blocks same height or higher than front (not sure I understand what you've done on the front... replaced the 4mm with a 2mm under the FR block?)
Harder rear spring - Serpent Black, or try a different type (HPI Pink/Silver, Ride Red/Blue's, although I prefer same spring front and rear).

I'd use a spool also for sure. After a couple of months running mod, the spool cups still look in decent condition.

HiH
Ed

RasCalDK

I can't figure out how you have placed the links? But to get the rear more lively, you should use the inner hole on the upright. This really frees up the rear, if you are running the outer hole.
And again... use the spool
If you put some shrink tube around the outdrive, you can also use tape, then you can grease it up. I have had almost no wear at all, just keep it greased.
You can checkout my setup: http://serpent.com/product/400012/setups/ (411 - Callesen - carpet)
It's got loads of steering, also on power, but the rear keeps following the car nice and predictable.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I agree 100%..... the P37 is smooth but it always pushed on-throttle for me. In my testing when I switched to the P37 I had to go thicker rear diff oil and change the uptravel. I'm not saying it isn't a good body..... It makes good grip but isn't very aggressive.

Definitely try the LTCR and the nylon spool. After some packs on a small track (using tons of brake) my spool shows no sign of wear. It comes with 2 aluminum sleeves that prevent outdrive warping.

FaanP

Thanks Mike ....

jimjav

iTrader: (1)

I have a very used mazda at home, so I will give it another oportunity.

I have black springs, 1.4 sway bar, and shims, so I have a lot to check.

Yes, it was a mistake I have it as stock under the FR block, 4mm. Sorry

I Have long rear links, inner in the chassis and outer in the hubs. I will try the in a shorter way

Good idea The shrink tube on the spool, maybe I will use the nylon one, to reduce weight.

Thanks also for cwoods

I will try some of the ideas you give me for next race in two weeks so I will buy some new sets of tyres to test almost everything!!!

Cheers

javier

Geberit

Is there only 4* graphite C-hub for the 411? I would like to try 6* but I only find the alu option.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I've only ever seen the aluminum versions..... You could run the 4*, 1mm shim under the front block, then 3mm under the rear front block which would give you 5.5ish?

Geberit

Yes, but then I get the side effects of the angled A-arms.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

Here is the set up that I ran yesterday , medium traction asphalt track. Easy to drive with a little controllable slide very good on power.

dawgmeat

iTrader: (9)

Gear diff oil is pretty heavy, traction must have been through the roof

Geberit

On medium grip asphalt I'm using 800 or 1000 in my V2 diffs

Also I noticed that rear long 1.4mm ARB gives more stability than 1.2mm in such conditions.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I've been running a long 1.3 rear bar, and I personally like it better than a short 1.2, because it feels smoother but holds a bit more in high-speed turns.

Geberit

In my last race I had a constant trouble in a chicane (the back was stepping out) first I was using (rear) a 1.2mm long ARB then changed to 1.2mm short and ultimately went for a long 1.4mm with this setting the back was sticking like it should.