samsking

iTrader: (16)

Thanks! I appreciate it and I'll post back with results. Won't run again until wednesday.

Do your shocks feel really soft with the blue springs and 2000cst? It almost feels under dampened and over sprung. What pistons are you running?

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

I built the shocks per manual last November and have not touched since.

They sound squeaky and they are leaky. As soon as I saw there were no bottom caps like the touring car shocks, I gave up on them.
I am still learning and the most important things that I have learned are... that you use the correct tires, get the saucing routine ( which sauce and how long) that works for you. And the most importantly, don't get stuck during the race and finish the race. A reliable car and a consistent driver wins the race.

Another video from today....

http://youtu.be/66vOA8RC3hA

+ YouTube Video

apenn

iTrader: (6)

+1
Really don't want to buy the whole kit again just to get more arms - or do they not really break like the non-ifs parts?

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

F2012 body. F60 front wing - drilled new screw holes and chopped off the rear tips on the vertical side panels. Tamiya front body post.
Decal from eBay.

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

Hi,

I bought a used FGX recently and upgraded the rear driveline to the aluminum gears (17t and 26t gears) and there seems to be quite a bit of side-to-side play in that shaft that the 17t gear is on?

Can someone post a pic of how the setup should look?

Thanks,

-Rich

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

I left off the short pink aluminum sleeve on one side of the rear shaft, fixed it last night.

Here's some pics.

Thanks,

-Rich

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I run 90 wt Losi oil with 2 hole pistons and either medium or hard springs in the rear. I've set mine at 5mm rear ride height and adjust rear camber between 0* and -1* as needed depending traction needs. I run the 5 dot sway bar also. Once you get the rear end to hook up and rotate properly, you can almost leave it alone. The reason I don't jack with the rear ride height and stiffness is because if you raise the CG and allow too much chassis roll, you will see the rear end snap loose, hit the side wall of the rear tire and do interesting looking pirouettes on the rear wing in high speed corners. With my setup I can predictably move the rear end of the car around with throttle and braking. Mind you my car is still not loose or have any over/under steer issues. FYI, I run the stock front end with the Exotek lower arm supports. They are light and have the added bonus of stiffening the front end. This allows the front springs to do their job and removes chassis roll due to flex at the front end. As much as I would like to run the IFS, I don't think it's worth the effort or cost of replacement.

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Hi Guys,

Which servo saver do you recommend?
Thanks,
Adrian

InspGadgt

Well the 3Racing servo saver that comes with the car is a direct copy of the Tamiya servo saver only not made as well as the Tamiya. So the Tamiya one works well as a direct replacement that doesn't strip out like the 3Racing one does.

Nuno Gancho

iTrader: (1)

Hi Rich Valente, your rear upper arms looks great is it in-house made or we may purchase in same store, thanks.

Do you all agree that conventional diff is better then the gear diff for the rear?

Rich Valente

iTrader: (21)

Hi Nuno,

I bought the FGX used with those on there, I believe they are from HKS Hobby

http://www.redrc.net/2012/06/hks-hob...is-conversion/

Not sure where to buy them.

-Rich

6376vette

As much as I agree with Inspgadgt I have to disagree on the servo saver. the 3 racing ones are crap and the tamiya is better but its only slightly less crappy. I busted one the first night I had it. go kimbrough. I have hit mine and locked up the steering many times on our punishing indoor track and never blew out the kimbrough servo saver and have never damaged a servo.

InspGadgt

Kimbro's are definitely better...I only suggest the Tamiya because it would be a direct replacement. You can also get the horn part of the saver in aluminum like a lot of people do on the F104 and it is very strong that way.

JayL

I just swapped the servo saver for an alum servo horn, much better and no issues

spring71

iTrader: (3)

New Shimizu F1 slick tires for HPI F10 / FGX just came out.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=49&s_sort=3



FYI, Thanks.