Alan_r

But those gold shafts and lower shock caps look cool! 🤘

And then I cover them with shock boots so no one can see them. But I know they're there.

czrlaker

iTrader: (34)

Not the reason I purchased them, I honestly couldn't care less. But that was what they had. And I needed them.

Pistol123

I've been running the durango inside over the winter on carpet with jconcepts smoothies on. Had issues with it collapsing at the rear and lifting a front wheel.
High rc at the rear one washer at the front. It was horrible to drive. Somebody suggested that for carpet that you need to lay down the rear shocks. Hey presto handling was transformed. Eveything I've read about laying down the shocks says it makes them more progressive and more roll. Can anybody suggest why this helped out please?

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

What you effectively did was to lower the rear spring rate a bit. By laying the shock over, the spring has a little less leverage on the suspension arm. When you get into a situation where you are lifting a front tire, I assume on power out of a corner, by raising the rear roll center you aren't really doing much to help it on power but are only going to make the rear end really unstable under turn in braking going into the corner. The car would be horrible to drive as it would suck everywhere.

I don't generally like critiquing setups but I'd love to know what yours is so see if anything obvious sticks out about it.

Pistol123

Lifting inside front was at end of corner entry and on apex, fine on corner exit.

3mm
front axles raised up to account for larger front tyres.
1 washer under inner ball studs.
Long front top links
30' caster
Trailing axles
Red front spring
30wt oil 6x1.2 pistons
-2' camber all round.

Black rear spring
1.5 as
Medium long rear top links.
Shocks in outer hole in wishbone.
27.5wt oil 6*1.3 pistons.
No washers under rear top links.

Shorty pack fully forward.

Just to confirm the moving the shocks in at the top stopped the tripodding, moving them out made it worse.

I had it previously with thicker oil and dialed it out by adding a front rc washer and removing the rear rc washer. Had moved to thiner oil as week before was running out side on bumpy astro.

Not sure why lowering the rear spring rate stopped it collapsing??

Just to add the I have run the same set up on astro and it handles great. The big different with running inside is the tyres, fronts are very large diameter compared with slim staggered ribs.

banx

have you tried making or sourcing 4x1.4 pistons?

at around the 860 page mark of this thread there is a discussion regarding people sealing two of the holes and boring out the other ones with an appropriate sized drill bit.

I was planning on trying it out

Pistol123

Yes I think that would work as would thicker oil. But i am more interested in how/why moving the shocks in at the top works.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Coincidental to that shock piston advice, I feel like it's 1990 again. I'm sitting here drilling out shock pistons by hand. I didn't have any 2x1.6 but fortunately I had several blanks. I'm going to be setting up the back around 2x1.6 pistons, light red springs and probably 25 weight oil. Outer location on the arm, next to outer on the tower. Shocks in front of the arms. I'm still closing in on the front. This is going to be a carpet/high grip setup where the track surface is smooth but with jumps. This wouldn't be good on rough tracks. Associated pistons are not interchangeable btw. I tried.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

As a piece of information, there is absolutely ZERO development going on with the Durango line right now. Nothing in any scale. There is also no UK distributor and none being lined up.

banx

I thought alan r was gonna buy that mutherfucker

WallyRC

That's too bad about Team Durango. With all the geometry issues we have solved and the exotek chassis. This car should be able to compete.

I went 2x1.6 in the rear w/27.5 wt. Your gonna like it. I'm running Kyosho white.

WallyRC

Fred,
Can you do me a favor on the rear end with the new shock bodies (29mm) on. On the right side of my buggy, when fully compressed and with tire rotation I get a slight bind from the dog bone end hitting the diff nut and it pushes the wheel down slightly. I have two Dex's and it does it on both. Wanted to know if you get that on yours with the increased up travel? It doesn't do it on the side with the screw end for adjustment.

Thank you

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

It comes darned close but clears. I don't know if it matters but I'm using the V1 ball diff.

bmag5000

Well mine is converted to an oval car. Only changes I made was lowering it with pieces of Nitro fuel tubing inside the shocks, Locked the slipper for stock oval racing.
Replaced the stock servo with a better one. 25 weight Losi shock oil (green in color)in the shocks.

WallyRC

Thanks for checking. I don't think there was a difference between models for ball diff. I might shave down the diff nut ever so slightly and see if that helps.