1Likesnew ofna DM1 pics and thoughts :):)
09-30-2009, 12:32 PM
#466
DM1
[QUOTE=GT Speed Freak;6411558]
Yes you will only need the front shock tower if you are running the DM1 Spec. Standing up the shocks makes them more consistant because the air bubble that is normally at the top of your shock (when standing vertically) is now in the middle of the shock when the shocks are laying down. The shock plunger is partially submerged in shock oil and partially in air. As the air bubbles mix it is the equivalent of using a lighter weight oil. You could have two different shock responces from the beginning of the race to the end. It is almost like not bleeding your brakes. They become spongy.
As far as body roll I agree with the guy that said chassis stiffness is a factor and in addition to that shock spring stiffness and oil weight. The body roll is a function of chassis flex and shock deflection. Shock deflection is a function of oil viscosity and spring constant. To get less roll you can increase spring stiffness or decrease oil viscosity.
Thanks for all of the tips guys.
I ran the car this past weekend, and with the modified Pico 21 and the 2052 pipe, the car is very fast. I was able to keep up with the 10th scale cars easily, but they got me in the sweepers due to the excessive body roll. I just changed the sway bars to stand on edge, and if need be will start with the shock oil and springs. When the DM1 first came out a couple of years ago I thought I did not want one of the "boats" as they call them, but when the DM1 spec came out and I saw how they were handling, I jumped right in. I actully have more fun with my DM1 spec than I do with my <4> 1/8th scale and <2> 10th scale cars. I wish they ran them more here in the club races, but as more and more people start running them, I hope they will be included in more club races.
Yes you will only need the front shock tower if you are running the DM1 Spec. Standing up the shocks makes them more consistant because the air bubble that is normally at the top of your shock (when standing vertically) is now in the middle of the shock when the shocks are laying down. The shock plunger is partially submerged in shock oil and partially in air. As the air bubbles mix it is the equivalent of using a lighter weight oil. You could have two different shock responces from the beginning of the race to the end. It is almost like not bleeding your brakes. They become spongy.
As far as body roll I agree with the guy that said chassis stiffness is a factor and in addition to that shock spring stiffness and oil weight. The body roll is a function of chassis flex and shock deflection. Shock deflection is a function of oil viscosity and spring constant. To get less roll you can increase spring stiffness or decrease oil viscosity.
I ran the car this past weekend, and with the modified Pico 21 and the 2052 pipe, the car is very fast. I was able to keep up with the 10th scale cars easily, but they got me in the sweepers due to the excessive body roll. I just changed the sway bars to stand on edge, and if need be will start with the shock oil and springs. When the DM1 first came out a couple of years ago I thought I did not want one of the "boats" as they call them, but when the DM1 spec came out and I saw how they were handling, I jumped right in. I actully have more fun with my DM1 spec than I do with my <4> 1/8th scale and <2> 10th scale cars. I wish they ran them more here in the club races, but as more and more people start running them, I hope they will be included in more club races.
Last edited by brc358; 09-30-2009 at 07:01 PM. Reason: wrong wording
10-01-2009, 08:01 AM
#467
I have race this car for about a year. When I first started racing it I was told to set the droop in the front you turn these rods. It seam to help so... Well then some one tells me no, no, no, you turn these set screws. Oh no someone jumps in. You loosen these screws and turn this pointer. So how do you set the droop in the front?
Thanks
Thanks
10-01-2009, 08:11 AM
#468
DM1
I have race this car for about a year. When I first started racing it I was told to set the droop in the front you turn these rods. It seam to help so... Well then some one tells me no, no, no, you turn these set screws. Oh no someone jumps in. You loosen these screws and turn this pointer. So how do you set the droop in the front?
Thanks
Thanks
Remove the shocks, remove the wheels, disconnect the sway bar.
Adjust the droop, and reinstall the sway bar, shocks and wheels
10-01-2009, 10:09 AM
#469
Bubba Cola,
What ever settings you have now, makes your car plenty fast through the curves.
You're making a lot of us GT racers look bad on the track.
The rod length will adjust the ride height for a fixed shock collar setting. Just as brc358 wrote, the droop screws in the bulkhead will adjust how far the suspension arms fall from the ride height setting. That's the adjustment method you are looking for.
What ever settings you have now, makes your car plenty fast through the curves.
You're making a lot of us GT racers look bad on the track.
The rod length will adjust the ride height for a fixed shock collar setting. Just as brc358 wrote, the droop screws in the bulkhead will adjust how far the suspension arms fall from the ride height setting. That's the adjustment method you are looking for.
10-01-2009, 12:19 PM
#470
Looking to stand up my front shocks. Just wanting to made sure I can set the droop when I move my shocks.
10-02-2009, 04:00 AM
#471
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
If you look near the inner hinge pin area on
the lower arms, you will see that there is
a pre-made hole that you can install set-
screws in to adjust the drop setting. I have
been useing this set-up to adjust my drop
since there is so much slop in the horizonal
shock mount system and this is the only way
to adjust the drop on the verticaly mounted
shocks. Setting the drop with the arms also
will help to get rid of the so called body roll.
Be carefull of taking too much drop out of
the rear, too little rear drop will cause the
rear to get loose in the turns.
the lower arms, you will see that there is
a pre-made hole that you can install set-
screws in to adjust the drop setting. I have
been useing this set-up to adjust my drop
since there is so much slop in the horizonal
shock mount system and this is the only way
to adjust the drop on the verticaly mounted
shocks. Setting the drop with the arms also
will help to get rid of the so called body roll.
Be carefull of taking too much drop out of
the rear, too little rear drop will cause the
rear to get loose in the turns.
10-02-2009, 06:36 AM
#472
I have done that.(set screw in arm) in the rear arm. The hole in the front arm is not in a place that it will hit the chassic. I found the screws in the front bumper mount. Its not the bulkhead but I think it's what you guys ment. If you turn it in it hits the sway bar mount and it will limit travel. But I can do the same thing by turning them pointer things on the the front arms. I think but don't know, that is a sway bar adjustment. By turning them pointers you rise or lower the swaybar. the set srcews on the top/ side of the sway bar will limit the down travel of the chassis. And the screws in the bumper mount/ bulkhead will limit the droop. Is this right? Sorry I'm just not understanding the add on sway bar thing to the arms. I like the old set screw thur the arm to chassis droop setting and a SWAY BAR.
Curvetracer. Thanks for the kind words. Car works better then the driver can drive.
Curvetracer. Thanks for the kind words. Car works better then the driver can drive.
10-02-2009, 04:54 PM
#474
Well I now have rear shocks on front. Want to race Sunday and test. I can tell without running it that its going to be a lot better. As for droop. After two hours of playing around. I'm going to use the pointer things which are cams. I use a long 2.0mm wrench loosen the screw and turn the pointer til you have the droop you want and tighten. Same on the other side. this was done with shock and wheels off.
See ya Sunday
See ya Sunday
11-10-2009, 01:31 PM
#476
Tech Addict
Great info here! I love this car and I just stated racing this class and absolutly love it. So far I have had great results with it.
Is anyone having trouble with the upper arm holders? I broke mine in the last race while leading the A Main after TQing and going to a lead of 16 seconds! It was a bummer but I got hit by a lapped car
so what can I do! Any suggestions other than not get hit?
Is anyone having trouble with the upper arm holders? I broke mine in the last race while leading the A Main after TQing and going to a lead of 16 seconds! It was a bummer but I got hit by a lapped car
so what can I do! Any suggestions other than not get hit?
11-10-2009, 03:40 PM
#477
I recommend an aluminum A-arm holder. This one is available from YB slow incorporated http://www.ybslowinc.com/products.php?category=12
it has worked well on my DM1 Spec car.
it has worked well on my DM1 Spec car.
11-10-2009, 03:46 PM
#478
I recommend an aluminum A-arm holder. This one is available from YB slow incorporated http://www.ybslowinc.com/products.php?category=12
it has worked well on my DM1 Spec car.
it has worked well on my DM1 Spec car.
11-10-2009, 08:58 PM
#479
Tech Addict
Thanks guys but I'm talkng about the upper arm holders. I already have the ybslow and are great products.
11-11-2009, 07:16 AM
#480
DM1
[QUOTE=brc358;6411652]
Thanks for all of the tips guys.
I ran the car this past weekend, and with the modified Pico 21 and the 2052 pipe, the car is very fast. I was able to keep up with the 10th scale cars easily, but they got me in the sweepers due to the excessive body roll. I just changed the sway bars to stand on edge, and if need be will start with the shock oil and springs. When the DM1 first came out a couple of years ago I thought I did not want one of the "boats" as they call them, but when the DM1 spec came out and I saw how they were handling, I jumped right in. I actully have more fun with my DM1 spec than I do with my <4> 1/8th scale and <2> 10th scale cars. I wish they ran them more here in the club races, but as more and more people start running them, I hope they will be included in more club races.
Was able to try out the car with the new shock tower <stand up shocks now> and th difference is very substantial. VERY happy with the way the car handles now. The car always did handle very well, other than the front body roll. But now the car has tremedous front and rear bite, and virtually no body roll. Its kind of funny, I have been using the same foam tires now for at least three months<using the car just about every weekend> and when I checked the tire sizes with a mic. I have only lost about 2 to 3 mm off the tires, front and rear.For some reason, this DM1 is not going through tires like the other DM1 cars, or any of my 1/8 on-road cars. These car are a lot of fun when they are set up right. Would not mind pick up another one, and then buying the electric conversion kit for the 2nd car and drop in a great brushless system
Thanks for all of the tips guys.
I ran the car this past weekend, and with the modified Pico 21 and the 2052 pipe, the car is very fast. I was able to keep up with the 10th scale cars easily, but they got me in the sweepers due to the excessive body roll. I just changed the sway bars to stand on edge, and if need be will start with the shock oil and springs. When the DM1 first came out a couple of years ago I thought I did not want one of the "boats" as they call them, but when the DM1 spec came out and I saw how they were handling, I jumped right in. I actully have more fun with my DM1 spec than I do with my <4> 1/8th scale and <2> 10th scale cars. I wish they ran them more here in the club races, but as more and more people start running them, I hope they will be included in more club races.