Schumacher Corner
10-03-2007, 01:23 PM
iic rubber tire 19t and stock setup
front...
1way
.5 toe in
screw block spacers 1mm frt and rear
wishbone klips 2mm frt 2mm rear
link washers 3mm..ie 1 2mm and 1 1mm
ride heigth 5.5mm
droop 2mm uptravle over ride heigth..or 5 on hudy guage
roll-bar 1.40...gold in coloer
caster block 4deg
camber 1.5 to 2 keep checking all 4 tires because they change
link washer 1mm
horizonal pin
Pivot blocks spacers 1.5mm
shocks..3hole I ran 30wt 40wt and 50wt and found 40 the best
spring...AE blue
2nd hole in on shock tower outside hole on a arm
from frt to back 3rd hole on center track rod plate
med/short plate
rear settings:
drive heigth low frt and rear ie:diff/1way set to low
toe: i ran 2 and 2.5 try both
screw block spacers front 2.5 rear 1mm
quik klips 2mmfrt 2mm rear
link washer horizontal 2.5mm
ride height 5.5mm
droop 3mm uptravle or 4 on hudy
roll bar 1.40 gold
camber 1.5 deg
link washer 3mm
inboard pin horizonal
pivot blocks spacers 1.5 on all 4
shocks 40wt 3hole
Silver AE spring
3rd hole in on shock tower
2nd hole in from outside on a arm
short camber link
motor orion19t and co27 116 spur 29 final drive 7.20
dope full rears 1/2 frt 70 to 80% dual rate
let me know if I missed anything ..this is a good setup for med to high bite
I tried both stiff and kit top deck ...I felt very happy with this set-up
Mazda speed 6 body......
1way
.5 toe in
screw block spacers 1mm frt and rear
wishbone klips 2mm frt 2mm rear
link washers 3mm..ie 1 2mm and 1 1mm
ride heigth 5.5mm
droop 2mm uptravle over ride heigth..or 5 on hudy guage
roll-bar 1.40...gold in coloer
caster block 4deg
camber 1.5 to 2 keep checking all 4 tires because they change
link washer 1mm
horizonal pin
Pivot blocks spacers 1.5mm
shocks..3hole I ran 30wt 40wt and 50wt and found 40 the best
spring...AE blue
2nd hole in on shock tower outside hole on a arm
from frt to back 3rd hole on center track rod plate
med/short plate
rear settings:
drive heigth low frt and rear ie:diff/1way set to low
toe: i ran 2 and 2.5 try both
screw block spacers front 2.5 rear 1mm
quik klips 2mmfrt 2mm rear
link washer horizontal 2.5mm
ride height 5.5mm
droop 3mm uptravle or 4 on hudy
roll bar 1.40 gold
camber 1.5 deg
link washer 3mm
inboard pin horizonal
pivot blocks spacers 1.5 on all 4
shocks 40wt 3hole
Silver AE spring
3rd hole in on shock tower
2nd hole in from outside on a arm
short camber link
motor orion19t and co27 116 spur 29 final drive 7.20
dope full rears 1/2 frt 70 to 80% dual rate
let me know if I missed anything ..this is a good setup for med to high bite
I tried both stiff and kit top deck ...I felt very happy with this set-up
Mazda speed 6 body......
10-03-2007, 01:38 PM
thanks for the help in advance
10-03-2007, 01:38 PM
10-03-2007, 01:38 PM
I just use regular corally style plugs to plug into the pack. I made sure that my solder joint (wire-to-plug) was as flat as possible so that it would fit under the bulkhead. To do this, I just soldered the wire to the corally style plug at a 90* angle as usual, then ground the solder joint a little flat with a rotary tool.
If you really need more space, you can take a little material off the 3200 case to allow the wire to fit under the bulkhead better, but it really isn't neccesary.
I even added a little tab onto the wire so that I can charge the pack without taking it out the car.
I'll throw a pic of the car up. If you want a better pic, I can take one.
If you really need more space, you can take a little material off the 3200 case to allow the wire to fit under the bulkhead better, but it really isn't neccesary.
I even added a little tab onto the wire so that I can charge the pack without taking it out the car.
I'll throw a pic of the car up. If you want a better pic, I can take one.
10-03-2007, 02:34 PM
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=66497&page=13
10-03-2007, 04:33 PM
I just use regular corally style plugs to plug into the pack. I made sure that my solder joint (wire-to-plug) was as flat as possible so that it would fit under the bulkhead. To do this, I just soldered the wire to the corally style plug at a 90* angle as usual, then ground the solder joint a little flat with a rotary tool.
If you really need more space, you can take a little material off the 3200 case to allow the wire to fit under the bulkhead better, but it really isn't neccesary.
I even added a little tab onto the wire so that I can charge the pack without taking it out the car.
I'll throw a pic of the car up. If you want a better pic, I can take one.
If you really need more space, you can take a little material off the 3200 case to allow the wire to fit under the bulkhead better, but it really isn't neccesary.
I even added a little tab onto the wire so that I can charge the pack without taking it out the car.
I'll throw a pic of the car up. If you want a better pic, I can take one.
10-03-2007, 04:33 PM
10-03-2007, 04:35 PM
Pound: here's a link of some pics I took of my car and the lipo they are pretty close up. Look about half way down the page.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=66497&page=13
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=66497&page=13
10-03-2007, 04:36 PM
Mcgoo or seaball in both your set-ups u used team tamale castor block, are these prototypes or caan they be ordered?
10-03-2007, 05:21 PM
10-03-2007, 05:24 PM
10-03-2007, 05:35 PM
I got a Schumacher pit towel about two years ago. I would they still have them.
10-03-2007, 05:36 PM
yeah we have them
10-03-2007, 05:39 PM
10-03-2007, 05:42 PM
Here you go Poundit:
These are close ups of the plug under the bulkhead. As you can see, if you keep the solder joint low, or grind it down after you solder it, then it doesn't come close to the bulkhead, thus no shorting concerns.
The only issue is if you use thick 12 guage wire(as I did). It fits snug under the bulk head. But its really not an issue. you can take a little insulation off the wire with an xacto blade, or take a little material off the battery case to let the wire sit lower, or just use 14 guage wire. Any of those work, and let the pack fit easily.
Another thing I have pictured, is the little tab(aka a cut off end of a cheap battery bar
) I use for charging while the pack is still in the car. All I do is unplug the negative wire, then clip the charger alligator clips to the tab and the negative port in the battery. Easy, and no battery removal except for when the car needs heavy repairs and the battery needs to be charged at the same time.
Hope these help...
These are close ups of the plug under the bulkhead. As you can see, if you keep the solder joint low, or grind it down after you solder it, then it doesn't come close to the bulkhead, thus no shorting concerns.
The only issue is if you use thick 12 guage wire(as I did). It fits snug under the bulk head. But its really not an issue. you can take a little insulation off the wire with an xacto blade, or take a little material off the battery case to let the wire sit lower, or just use 14 guage wire. Any of those work, and let the pack fit easily.
Another thing I have pictured, is the little tab(aka a cut off end of a cheap battery bar
) I use for charging while the pack is still in the car. All I do is unplug the negative wire, then clip the charger alligator clips to the tab and the negative port in the battery. Easy, and no battery removal except for when the car needs heavy repairs and the battery needs to be charged at the same time.Hope these help...