5LikesTamiya TB-03
That's cool! Maybe I can try to sneak away for a race on that track while I'm there...would be cool to meet up with ya'll and race and stuff
08-07-2009, 06:26 AM
#619
Well, I'd say TB-03 for slower motors or dirty tracks and the TA-05v2 for powerful motors and pristine tracks. Ignoring shaft vs belt, they're both pretty similar and I doubt you'll be disappointed with either. Their steering is similar, but once that's fixed, they should be awesome.
Looks like you can use the TB-03 steering set upgrade (54095) on the v2 but the v2's steering link is different and I don't think there's an upgrade for the link. I'm guessing the link wont matter, but I know for a fact that once upgraded, the TB-03's steering is rock solid.
I guess one thing the TB-03 has going for it is that it has a year of people shaking it out.
Looks like you can use the TB-03 steering set upgrade (54095) on the v2 but the v2's steering link is different and I don't think there's an upgrade for the link. I'm guessing the link wont matter, but I know for a fact that once upgraded, the TB-03's steering is rock solid.
I guess one thing the TB-03 has going for it is that it has a year of people shaking it out.
Last edited by bluesxman; 08-07-2009 at 06:37 AM.
lol, i guess i can make my decision much easier now. lets wait and see what happens
08-07-2009, 08:03 AM
#621
Mark, your ride height problem may have been a part of your issue. Also the last two times you were at the track, the environment, and lots of rubber made it REALLY sticky... When you get to the track on Saturday, we can work on the car to get those nasty traction issues resolved.
the surface we race on has uber traction. If you step in the right spot your shoe will come off
really. Last time I raced I tracton rolled in 80% of the corners. What is the best way to reduce traction rolling? softer springs? LMK what works best for you fellow tb03 racers
And don't give me the shaft....get it?
using hpi xpattern and 17.5 per our spec rules
really. Last time I raced I tracton rolled in 80% of the corners. What is the best way to reduce traction rolling? softer springs? LMK what works best for you fellow tb03 racersAnd don't give me the shaft....get it?
using hpi xpattern and 17.5 per our spec rules
08-08-2009, 10:18 PM
#622
Well I had the first run with the car and i am impressed. We run on a high traction surface and I started with the kit set-up running belted hpi x patterns with a lrp 17.5 geared at 3.9 - 76/46.
The car was plenty fast and the motor was temping at 145 deg after about 5 min so i may go to a 3.7. The main problem I had was not enough steering.
Mainly high speed on power push and low speed off power push. I really had to use the brakes just to get the car to turn in. Springs, I started with blue up front and yellow in the rear . I let a couple of the fast guys drive the car and they all had great things to say about it. They could drive it so fast I was amazed. But, I was trying to set up to my driving style so I started listening to their advice. In the end I changed to red springs up-front with blue in the rear. The car was 75% better and I only had to touch the brakes on two tight corners. Overall I am very happy with the car and will continue to play with setup. Any advice for setup is great
Only damage was a ball stud coming out of the rear hub carrier on the left side. Car is very fast and uber smooth. Just need to get the steering dialed in a little more and it will be a weapon
The car was plenty fast and the motor was temping at 145 deg after about 5 min so i may go to a 3.7. The main problem I had was not enough steering.
Mainly high speed on power push and low speed off power push. I really had to use the brakes just to get the car to turn in. Springs, I started with blue up front and yellow in the rear . I let a couple of the fast guys drive the car and they all had great things to say about it. They could drive it so fast I was amazed. But, I was trying to set up to my driving style so I started listening to their advice. In the end I changed to red springs up-front with blue in the rear. The car was 75% better and I only had to touch the brakes on two tight corners. Overall I am very happy with the car and will continue to play with setup. Any advice for setup is great
Only damage was a ball stud coming out of the rear hub carrier on the left side. Car is very fast and uber smooth. Just need to get the steering dialed in a little more and it will be a weapon
08-09-2009, 07:31 AM
#625
Well I had the first run with the car and i am impressed. We run on a high traction surface and I started with the kit set-up running belted hpi x patterns with a lrp 17.5 geared at 3.9 - 76/46.
The car was plenty fast and the motor was temping at 145 deg after about 5 min so i may go to a 3.7. The main problem I had was not enough steering.
Mainly high speed on power push and low speed off power push. I really had to use the brakes just to get the car to turn in. Springs, I started with blue up front and yellow in the rear . I let a couple of the fast guys drive the car and they all had great things to say about it. They could drive it so fast I was amazed. But, I was trying to set up to my driving style so I started listening to their advice. In the end I changed to red springs up-front with blue in the rear. The car was 75% better and I only had to touch the brakes on two tight corners. Overall I am very happy with the car and will continue to play with setup. Any advice for setup is great
Only damage was a ball stud coming out of the rear hub carrier on the left side. Car is very fast and uber smooth. Just need to get the steering dialed in a little more and it will be a weapon
The car was plenty fast and the motor was temping at 145 deg after about 5 min so i may go to a 3.7. The main problem I had was not enough steering.
Mainly high speed on power push and low speed off power push. I really had to use the brakes just to get the car to turn in. Springs, I started with blue up front and yellow in the rear . I let a couple of the fast guys drive the car and they all had great things to say about it. They could drive it so fast I was amazed. But, I was trying to set up to my driving style so I started listening to their advice. In the end I changed to red springs up-front with blue in the rear. The car was 75% better and I only had to touch the brakes on two tight corners. Overall I am very happy with the car and will continue to play with setup. Any advice for setup is great
Only damage was a ball stud coming out of the rear hub carrier on the left side. Car is very fast and uber smooth. Just need to get the steering dialed in a little more and it will be a weapon
Hey what you said about yanking the ball stud out of the rear upright reminded me of something I wanted to post up here awhile ago. The picture I just took explains it pretty well I believe, but in case people get confused I will explain. On the rear uprights/hubs of all Tamiya's, I install a little set screw in the extra holes in the uprights to prevent the ballstud from pushing over to the next hole in a bad wreck. Also prevents stripping out the threads, since it strengthens the upright as well. Fast, cheap insurance that can help prevent a DNF from a small wreck or tap. As far as steering goes.....one word....SPOOL!
If you have a spool installed though, I'll give you a run down on what I would do later. Ran out of time atm, tax free weekend here in North Carolina......new lap top here I come
08-09-2009, 09:27 AM
#627
Slide motor pinion away from the spur. Do the wheels spin freely?
If not, disconnect the drive shaft. Which end does not spin freely?
Open up that end. Any damage? Are gear teeth stripped/melted? Are all the bearings spinning freely? Shimmed too tight? Clean it up and shim it looser if necessary. You can loosen/tighten the mesh between the bevel gear (BG1) and the diff gear (BG2) with shims. You can change the 10mm shims (BA12) on the diff or the shims on the propeller joins (BA20, BA21).
Personally, I did 4 BA12 shims on the short side of the diff and 2 on the long side. I also did two BA17 shims on the propeller joints. This all tightens up the mesh between the bevel gears and the diff. While its on the tight side, my drive train still spins nice and smoothly with the motor disconnected.
Now, if your drive train spins freely with the motor disconnected then there's several things it could be:
1) The mesh between your pinion and spur gear was too tight. You want a little bit of play in that mesh.
2) Motor needs cleaning. Spray it out and lube it.
3) Motor needs rebuild/replacement. How have your motor temps been? Is it possible you cooked it? As for fixing and maintaining brushed motors, I am not the guy to ask. My fix is to run brushless.
4) Could your ESC or radio be causing the motor to brake when you let off the throttle? Perhaps the ESC has a really aggressive drag brake setting? Perhaps your throttle trim is way off on your radio? You could check those settings or try new electronics on the car if you have them available.
If you have other motors/escs/radios or friends who are willing to help you out, you can always try swapping these out to see if one of them is the culprit.
Anyway, I hope that gives you some ideas. Step 1 is to isolate the problem.
Last edited by bluesxman; 08-09-2009 at 09:40 AM.
08-09-2009, 10:24 AM
#628
Hey Timmie, just how important would you say a spool is to solving on-power push? I'm running on un-prepped parking lots with pretty good quality surfaces. There's still a lot of options for me to try, but I'm wondering if I should put my tuning on pause until I pick up a spool for the front.
08-09-2009, 12:03 PM
#629
Swift, that's not impossible, but if you shimmed it like the manual, I doubt it. For me, the factory build made the meshes very loose. First, I think you need to isolate the problem. I'd do this:
Slide motor pinion away from the spur. Do the wheels spin freely?
If not, disconnect the drive shaft. Which end does not spin freely?
Open up that end. Any damage? Are gear teeth stripped/melted? Are all the bearings spinning freely? Shimmed too tight? Clean it up and shim it looser if necessary. You can loosen/tighten the mesh between the bevel gear (BG1) and the diff gear (BG2) with shims. You can change the 10mm shims (BA12) on the diff or the shims on the propeller joins (BA20, BA21).
Personally, I did 4 BA12 shims on the short side of the diff and 2 on the long side. I also did two BA17 shims on the propeller joints. This all tightens up the mesh between the bevel gears and the diff. While its on the tight side, my drive train still spins nice and smoothly with the motor disconnected.
Now, if your drive train spins freely with the motor disconnected then there's several things it could be:
1) The mesh between your pinion and spur gear was too tight. You want a little bit of play in that mesh.
2) Motor needs cleaning. Spray it out and lube it.
3) Motor needs rebuild/replacement. How have your motor temps been? Is it possible you cooked it? As for fixing and maintaining brushed motors, I am not the guy to ask. My fix is to run brushless.
4) Could your ESC or radio be causing the motor to brake when you let off the throttle? Perhaps the ESC has a really aggressive drag brake setting? Perhaps your throttle trim is way off on your radio? You could check those settings or try new electronics on the car if you have them available.
If you have other motors/escs/radios or friends who are willing to help you out, you can always try swapping these out to see if one of them is the culprit.
Anyway, I hope that gives you some ideas. Step 1 is to isolate the problem.
Slide motor pinion away from the spur. Do the wheels spin freely?
If not, disconnect the drive shaft. Which end does not spin freely?
Open up that end. Any damage? Are gear teeth stripped/melted? Are all the bearings spinning freely? Shimmed too tight? Clean it up and shim it looser if necessary. You can loosen/tighten the mesh between the bevel gear (BG1) and the diff gear (BG2) with shims. You can change the 10mm shims (BA12) on the diff or the shims on the propeller joins (BA20, BA21).
Personally, I did 4 BA12 shims on the short side of the diff and 2 on the long side. I also did two BA17 shims on the propeller joints. This all tightens up the mesh between the bevel gears and the diff. While its on the tight side, my drive train still spins nice and smoothly with the motor disconnected.
Now, if your drive train spins freely with the motor disconnected then there's several things it could be:
1) The mesh between your pinion and spur gear was too tight. You want a little bit of play in that mesh.
2) Motor needs cleaning. Spray it out and lube it.
3) Motor needs rebuild/replacement. How have your motor temps been? Is it possible you cooked it? As for fixing and maintaining brushed motors, I am not the guy to ask. My fix is to run brushless.
4) Could your ESC or radio be causing the motor to brake when you let off the throttle? Perhaps the ESC has a really aggressive drag brake setting? Perhaps your throttle trim is way off on your radio? You could check those settings or try new electronics on the car if you have them available.
If you have other motors/escs/radios or friends who are willing to help you out, you can always try swapping these out to see if one of them is the culprit.
Anyway, I hope that gives you some ideas. Step 1 is to isolate the problem.
08-09-2009, 12:22 PM
#630
Hey Timmie, just how important would you say a spool is to solving on-power push? I'm running on un-prepped parking lots with pretty good quality surfaces. There's still a lot of options for me to try, but I'm wondering if I should put my tuning on pause until I pick up a spool for the front.
Low grip, high grip, it doesn't matter, a spool will pull your car in the direction the wheels are turned. Sure, you can run the front ball diff very very tight, and gain some on power steering, but it will never be as profound as it would be with a spool. I helped a guy with a TC5R once at a race that was getting frustrated with his car. We dropped a spool into it and bam, his car was fast. So spools are not just my preference for the TB03, but for all TC no matter the brand. For almost anybody I've raced with, they are always faster (consistent) with a spool. I think you should most definitely get a spool. I promise you won't regret it. That and it really isn't much money at all, cheap upgrade, big bang for the buck. If you would like to see video of low grip parking lot racing with a spool I can post some videos up.