Ask Keven Hebert, TeamAssociated / Reedy / ApexRC
#511
I have posted this question also in Mp and Here.
Hi keven, no problem.
For the shocks I do the same thing but I use the Tamiya blu o-ring and I am satisfied for the work with 450 MuchMore oil. Now I am testing Tamiya shocks to see the difference between the original TC6.For gear diff. some tips? Building, oil, grease and so on.
For your set-up I am not able to see this in the IIC website, can help me?
Now solved in "Team Associated TC6 Thread"
Thks
Enrico
Hi keven, no problem.
For the shocks I do the same thing but I use the Tamiya blu o-ring and I am satisfied for the work with 450 MuchMore oil. Now I am testing Tamiya shocks to see the difference between the original TC6.For gear diff. some tips? Building, oil, grease and so on.
For your set-up I am not able to see this in the IIC website, can help me?
Now solved in "Team Associated TC6 Thread"
Thks
Enrico
#512
Kevin what difference do u feel runing your shock bottoms in the b hole compared to outer c hole?
Why did you run kickup?
Why did you run kickup?
#513
[QUOTE=Keven H;11359649]Hi Gom,
You will need to cut the sharp edge but very very little and is easier done with a exacto knife. You will also need the hex like with the RSD.
got it. thanks Keven.
You will need to cut the sharp edge but very very little and is easier done with a exacto knife. You will also need the hex like with the RSD.
got it. thanks Keven.
#515
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Hmm both motors are very good motor. the feel is slightly different, with the LRP motor having more torq and Reedy being smoother. I think you can get close to the same runtime with both motor from my previous testing. One of the main thing that helped me with effeciency and runtime was going to the Flow ESC. I was very surprised at how much cooler and faster the ESC was from what I had before. But I never ran into much issue with runtime with the 6500 battery before tho, I cam close a few times but it didnt seem much of a problem. I dont think .0 are more efficient. I think it has a lot to do with ESC settings, sometimes when they are wrong, it can be slower when the timing is too much and it doesnt reach it and therefore it will also drain more batteries so also something to take into concideration. But I think both motors are great and you can find what you like with either one of them with some testing, gearing and ESC.
Hope this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.
Hope this helps, and let me know if you have any questions.
#516
I have posted this question also in Mp and Here.
Hi keven, no problem.
For the shocks I do the same thing but I use the Tamiya blu o-ring and I am satisfied for the work with 450 MuchMore oil. Now I am testing Tamiya shocks to see the difference between the original TC6.For gear diff. some tips? Building, oil, grease and so on.
For your set-up I am not able to see this in the IIC website, can help me?
Now solved in "Team Associated TC6 Thread"
Thks
Enrico
Hi keven, no problem.
For the shocks I do the same thing but I use the Tamiya blu o-ring and I am satisfied for the work with 450 MuchMore oil. Now I am testing Tamiya shocks to see the difference between the original TC6.For gear diff. some tips? Building, oil, grease and so on.
For your set-up I am not able to see this in the IIC website, can help me?
Now solved in "Team Associated TC6 Thread"
Thks
Enrico
This will be just a guess since I have never run 17.5 1/12 but if I was to run the class I would start with the IIC mod setup and probably silver side spring and Black and yellow for tires and that should be a good starting point ! hope this helps.
#518
whats a good size and spur to start with for 17.5 1/12? thinking i might run 17.5 at the TZGP
Last edited by TEAM BURN; 10-24-2012 at 11:15 PM.
#519
Thank you, when you get the car, nothing major is needed except the Dual joint for the front when running on carpet is a good option to have. I run the Tamiya one from Spec-R but I beleive the Yokomo are a good fit has well but you need 5mm hex with any dual joint you will use because stock AE hex wont fit.
Everything else should be going together well and you should be good to go.
For 1/12, if you do run mod, I would not go any bigger than 42.5-43mm in the rear to start with and 40.5 front to get about 5 runs on them. problem is when running modified now the cars are so fast that tire wear can be an issue. I run mine down to 38.8mm but thats as low as I will go for front and 40.8 for rear.
Good to hear you will be at timezone GP. Looking forward to meet new people.
Everything else should be going together well and you should be good to go.
For 1/12, if you do run mod, I would not go any bigger than 42.5-43mm in the rear to start with and 40.5 front to get about 5 runs on them. problem is when running modified now the cars are so fast that tire wear can be an issue. I run mine down to 38.8mm but thats as low as I will go for front and 40.8 for rear.
Good to hear you will be at timezone GP. Looking forward to meet new people.
#523
[QUOTE=Keven H;11363967]
Hi, When I build my gear diff I just put everything together like the instruction and once in a while probably every 3 race meeting, I will change the orings and gear to make sure the diff is always in good shape because the oring tend to swell and makes the diff feel thicker. As for the setups, they are posted on www.rc10.com under setup.
Thks for info.
Enrico
Hi, When I build my gear diff I just put everything together like the instruction and once in a while probably every 3 race meeting, I will change the orings and gear to make sure the diff is always in good shape because the oring tend to swell and makes the diff feel thicker. As for the setups, they are posted on www.rc10.com under setup.
Thks for info.
Enrico