khyron

I think I see what you're saying, but actually, your car has the same "suspension" as the Team Car and Factory Team Car pretty much. All you probably need if you want to make some adjustments are some nice cheap plastic parts:

http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/31010.htm
http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/6475.htm

You don't need the nicer shocks unless yours are leaking and make you unhappy or something. The RTR shocks are just as adjustable.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Niftech has some really sweet dogbones with flat blade-type pins that last quite a while in the plastic outdrives. They are aluminum and have two sets of holes for the CVD pin to fit, so you get twice the wear out of them. You can also buy the blade-type pins and install them into any of the AE dogbones, plastic, aluminum, etc... and pretty much build a bulletproof driveline. The steel outdrives DO wear the best, aluminum outdrives are basically for competition only... even with IRS pincushions or the Niftech blades, the aluminum outdrives show wear after a few runs. If you are mostly bashing around or drifting, try the TC3 plastic dogbones (190mm) with steel outdrives... the "twist" in the plastic dogbone will ease some of the wear and tear on the outdrives/bone pins, and they are cheap to replace IF they get broken.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Dave you have a PM

khyron

THANKS! Not only does Niftech make some neat dogbones, but they make these two "anvils" that come complete with punches and do exactly what I need, help someone with no coordination (and no proper bench vise) insert and remove pins without destroying dogbones...


...now if only I knew which anvil would be the right one for removing stock pins from the original dogbones (from the TC4 kit) so I can install some pin-cushioned ones:

anvil stand for 3/32'' pins #2320-ANVIL
anvil stand for 1/16'' pins #2321-062-ANVIL

I found the anvils here on the Niftech site but I don't know the exact diameter I need and the parts list for the TC4 at the AE site doesn't appear to say - anyone know?

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

The 3/16 anvil is for the standard size TC3/4 dogbones. The 1/16 anvil is for insertion/removal of the Niftech pins that fit in the blades... it ALSO inserts and removes the IRS pins for the pincushions... but the anvil is NOT neccessary for the IRS pins/cushions. The Niftech aluminum dogbones will wear at the CVD joint pin long before you wear the outdrives with the blade pin. The newer aluminum TC4 dogbones with the Niftech blades installed would probably be a nice setup... durability on BOTH ends of the bone. The Niftech aluminum bones weigh less than the TC3 composite bones... amazingly light... a good choice for competition "durability".

Another note on IRS pincushions, with the TC4/FT you will find the length of the IRS pincushions a problem. They are longer than the standard pin, and can rub the inside ballstud mount/threads. It is easy to trim them to the same length as the standard AE pin with a dremel tool and a cutting wheel, and watch the length (thread, not ballneck) of the ballstud you are using for your inner camber link. The Niftech blades are really close... but i never had a problem with them rubbing.

*EDIT* On another note, the TC3 titanium main shaft Niftech sells WILL work with the TC4 IF you swap the TC4 main shaft cups with TC3 main shaft cups. The TC3 parts are a direct bolt-on... but watch your F/R lay shaft shimming... the TC3/TC4 cups fit the same, but for some reason when i swapped back and forth from one set to another, the shimming on the front and rear layshafts were different by a shim or two. Not a major problem but something to definitely look for. The Niftech main shaft is as light as the old TC3 carbon shaft that is no longer in production, but ALOT stronger and resistant to twist for hot motors. Not to mention its just dead sexy. It could be the last shaft you ever buy for the car.

Ernie P.

iTrader: (1)

Starting with a standard FT TC4, what parts would you upgrade? And what parts (supplier and part numbers) would you install as replacements? Thanks; Ernie P.

cody1

iTrader: (1)

You might want to look at speedtechs speedway pal aluminum diff it uses stock cvds you just slip delrin blades over the ends. I used these for a whole season and they show no wear. You use the parts from the plastic diffs to build them up. I bought 4 extras sets of blades and never had to use them.

ralph_c

DaveW - My IRS pincushions have rubbed on the ballstud before too, but only because the pins can slide a bit off center. I found I had to put a drop of CA on mine to keep them in.

Ernie P - There isn't a huge amount that really needs to be replaced. I would definately get the Associated VCS shock kit. This replaces the weird foam system used in the standard shocks with a bladder/diaphragm system. This makes the shocks a lot easier to build.

It would also be worth upgrading the front diff outdrives (unless you're running modified and are using the lightened steel ones anyway). The steel ones are ok, but fairly heavy. For stock and 19t you could get some Square RC delrin outdrives, which are really good (http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=339&id=1033). They are slightly longer than the standard versions too so you wont have any problems with the CVD's popping out when you turn sharply and knock a barrier.

Other than those small upgrades, there's little else that is a definate requirement. If you're racing outdoors maybe the ITF (increased tortional flex) kit might help the handling. If you wanted to lighten up the drivetrain you could also get some IRS composite TC3 dogbones and a carbon prop shaft.

If you want to look at hop-ups there are TC3/4 parts from: Associated, Square RC, IRS, 3racing, Team Bomber carbon prop shaft, Titanium Racing, Lunsford...

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

What is up with this thread...no activity what-so-ever. Is no one running the TC4? Or is it simply that the car is working so well there's no need to discuss it?

I for one love mine...I have been dying to build something new but this car has been so good for me lately that I'd be stupid to try anything else.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Hey, Dr...are you running the tub or double-deck chassis? Also, are you an asphalt guy or carpet?

ford_racing

iTrader: (6)

Well after 5 months I finally hacked at my FT version to install the BMI Battery brace from my other chassis, looks very nice now and hopefuly it will perform much better than using tape.

also does any company make a motor mount liike the FT's one for the BMI / Team, ie. adjustability
or use the one there now, but with a larger inner hole for the adjustable part, ie fit in a 540 based motor

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

Factory Team chassis (double deck w/spine plate). We're still running carpet here.

S_fender

Car works good for me but i wish team AE, make little modification to be even better :
Aluminium diff, Bones with "blades", a Square Aluminum Rear Arm Mount that i can put in place of the round without modifying the front transmission case (for in-board toe out).

Any other idea ?

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (95)

For the bones w/blades here's what you can do.

1. Get a set of IRS pin cushions and some schumacher blades
2. Cut each of the pin cushions plastic bits in half
3. Install the pin with the half bit of plastic in each drive shaft (add a drop of CA to make sure it stays put)
4. Put the schumacher blade on and re-install on the car

It's not difficult to do though the pins have a tendency to slide out a bit if you don't CA them in.

jrighter

iTrader: (8)

Save yourself all the headaches and get these.. They are pricey but after buying parts here and there to make something work you would have spent a bundle already.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=326