65LikesTC3 Forum
01-07-2004, 04:19 PM
#7366
Tech Apprentice
BIGDON18
Most onroad racers (that i know) have the antenna going out the body through the antenna tube.(best reception). U can mount the antenna inside the car by using scrap lexan stip about .5 inch wide and 3-4 inches tall with holes cut out. Run the antenna through the holes and tape to somewhere on the chassis.
I have tried this before but i get glitching so i switched back to the tube.
Dont have a pic but can get one soon of both setups, if u need it
Most onroad racers (that i know) have the antenna going out the body through the antenna tube.(best reception). U can mount the antenna inside the car by using scrap lexan stip about .5 inch wide and 3-4 inches tall with holes cut out. Run the antenna through the holes and tape to somewhere on the chassis.
I have tried this before but i get glitching so i switched back to the tube.
Dont have a pic but can get one soon of both setups, if u need it
01-08-2004, 04:43 PM
#7370
DaveW, are you going to run the plastic cvds on your car this year?
01-08-2004, 05:47 PM
#7371
bearing spacer
anybody ever leave the bearing spacer (part# 3965) out of the uprights? i believe the uprights have stops for the bearings, makes me wonder if the spacer is really needed.
01-08-2004, 05:54 PM
#7373
thats what i figured after a close look. i just got some new bearings (trying to find some more speed) and don't want the spacer to interfer with the bearings or the spinning axle.
01-08-2004, 05:58 PM
#7374
new guy, from RCZ forums.
Hi Guys! This would be post number 1 for me at these forums. Seemed like a very active tc3 thread so Ive decided to join. I bought my tc3 used, it was a old school tc3 team with no set screw adjustment for droop. It runs ok but does anyone have any tips on freeing up the drivetrain and making it smoother?(without $100 bearings) Ive also noticed that the camber links dont seem to be the same length when i set the camber equally. Would it be just my eyes?
Ive been reading the previous pages (not all
) but when you refer to 100tooth spur gears and using them with 25tooth pinions, are they 48p or 64p? What would my current 19t and 25t pinions / 72t spur 48p gear ratio convert to in 64p?
I plan to run in the stock class...I have a basic duratrax esc, with a monster stock pro and an mx-3 system. Im happy with it but I'll probably move to brushless in the future.
Any other suggestions and tips/hints appreciated. Thanks for your help guys!
Ive been reading the previous pages (not all
) but when you refer to 100tooth spur gears and using them with 25tooth pinions, are they 48p or 64p? What would my current 19t and 25t pinions / 72t spur 48p gear ratio convert to in 64p? I plan to run in the stock class...I have a basic duratrax esc, with a monster stock pro and an mx-3 system. Im happy with it but I'll probably move to brushless in the future.
Any other suggestions and tips/hints appreciated. Thanks for your help guys!
01-08-2004, 06:04 PM
#7375
Hi guys,
I am too a brand new TC3 owner, just picked up my FT TC3 today. Anybody have any tips when it comes to building the car?
Also I run on a medium/large asphalt track with foam tires. Any optional parts which you think will be useful for me on such a track. I am thinking oneway for sure.
Any other general tips appreciated.
I am too a brand new TC3 owner, just picked up my FT TC3 today. Anybody have any tips when it comes to building the car?
Also I run on a medium/large asphalt track with foam tires. Any optional parts which you think will be useful for me on such a track. I am thinking oneway for sure.
Any other general tips appreciated.
01-08-2004, 07:58 PM
#7377
Trackdesigner71 - #3935 Factory TeamTC3 Aluminum Screw Kit set $13.00 http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog.../screw_loc.htm
AMGRacer - just make sure you pick up an extra rear shock tower for the front.
Building tips - you want tomake sure all of the outer plastic from the molding it gone(duh), when you put the front (suspension: steering blocks and c-hubs) make sure you dont screw the upper ball cup into the steering block to tightly or it will later strip, just snug and check after each run or two, work on the drivetrain, the big thing here is dont worry about making it spin for 340029271818494028 seconds like most people think it needs to spin for. All you need is at least 7 seconds or so of spinning and you'll be fine. Now, the best method I have found is take the FT kit bearings, leave both seals on, and spray with motor cleaner, let it sit a bit and you will see white liquid come out(grease) then wipe off and cover the seal with a thin oil (I use Tribo). It will soak into the seals and all the way through the bearing. Spin the bearings several times to get them lubricated (That is all for the bearings). Next, move on to working all of the areas that the drivetrain bearings sit in (excluding the outer suspension). Take a dremel and lightly work on the places where the bearings are smashed together by the diff cases, work on that until you can place the bearing in its place with out it looking to be snug. Also, make sure you work on the shaft support where the spur gear is located (very valuble).
About the bearings, dont worry about taking one seal out and all of that buisness, b/c I have messed with that, and for club racing, it is useless, and you will just find yourself replacing bearings, good bearings at that, because they are gritty from all of the $!!# that got in them.
AMGRacer - just make sure you pick up an extra rear shock tower for the front.
Building tips - you want tomake sure all of the outer plastic from the molding it gone(duh), when you put the front (suspension: steering blocks and c-hubs) make sure you dont screw the upper ball cup into the steering block to tightly or it will later strip, just snug and check after each run or two, work on the drivetrain, the big thing here is dont worry about making it spin for 340029271818494028 seconds like most people think it needs to spin for. All you need is at least 7 seconds or so of spinning and you'll be fine. Now, the best method I have found is take the FT kit bearings, leave both seals on, and spray with motor cleaner, let it sit a bit and you will see white liquid come out(grease) then wipe off and cover the seal with a thin oil (I use Tribo). It will soak into the seals and all the way through the bearing. Spin the bearings several times to get them lubricated (That is all for the bearings). Next, move on to working all of the areas that the drivetrain bearings sit in (excluding the outer suspension). Take a dremel and lightly work on the places where the bearings are smashed together by the diff cases, work on that until you can place the bearing in its place with out it looking to be snug. Also, make sure you work on the shaft support where the spur gear is located (very valuble).
About the bearings, dont worry about taking one seal out and all of that buisness, b/c I have messed with that, and for club racing, it is useless, and you will just find yourself replacing bearings, good bearings at that, because they are gritty from all of the $!!# that got in them.
01-08-2004, 08:28 PM
#7378
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
AMGRacer - just make sure you pick up an extra rear shock tower for the front.
Building tips - you want tomake sure all of the outer plastic from the molding it gone(duh), when you put the front (suspension: steering blocks and c-hubs) make sure you dont screw the upper ball cup into the steering block to tightly or it will later strip, just snug and check after each run or two, work on the drivetrain, the big thing here is dont worry about making it spin for 340029271818494028 seconds like most people think it needs to spin for. All you need is at least 7 seconds or so of spinning and you'll be fine. Now, the best method I have found is take the FT kit bearings, leave both seals on, and spray with motor cleaner, let it sit a bit and you will see white liquid come out(grease) then wipe off and cover the seal with a thin oil (I use Tribo). It will soak into the seals and all the way through the bearing. Spin the bearings several times to get them lubricated (That is all for the bearings). Next, move on to working all of the areas that the drivetrain bearings sit in (excluding the outer suspension). Take a dremel and lightly work on the places where the bearings are smashed together by the diff cases, work on that until you can place the bearing in its place with out it looking to be snug. Also, make sure you work on the shaft support where the spur gear is located (very valuble).
About the bearings, dont worry about taking one seal out and all of that buisness, b/c I have messed with that, and for club racing, it is useless, and you will just find yourself replacing bearings, good bearings at that, because they are gritty from all of the $!!# that got in them.
AMGRacer - just make sure you pick up an extra rear shock tower for the front.
Building tips - you want tomake sure all of the outer plastic from the molding it gone(duh), when you put the front (suspension: steering blocks and c-hubs) make sure you dont screw the upper ball cup into the steering block to tightly or it will later strip, just snug and check after each run or two, work on the drivetrain, the big thing here is dont worry about making it spin for 340029271818494028 seconds like most people think it needs to spin for. All you need is at least 7 seconds or so of spinning and you'll be fine. Now, the best method I have found is take the FT kit bearings, leave both seals on, and spray with motor cleaner, let it sit a bit and you will see white liquid come out(grease) then wipe off and cover the seal with a thin oil (I use Tribo). It will soak into the seals and all the way through the bearing. Spin the bearings several times to get them lubricated (That is all for the bearings). Next, move on to working all of the areas that the drivetrain bearings sit in (excluding the outer suspension). Take a dremel and lightly work on the places where the bearings are smashed together by the diff cases, work on that until you can place the bearing in its place with out it looking to be snug. Also, make sure you work on the shaft support where the spur gear is located (very valuble).
About the bearings, dont worry about taking one seal out and all of that buisness, b/c I have messed with that, and for club racing, it is useless, and you will just find yourself replacing bearings, good bearings at that, because they are gritty from all of the $!!# that got in them.
01-08-2004, 08:41 PM
#7379
It is basically widening the top of the tower compared to the front tower, and it is lowering it. For asphalt and rubber tires, most run the rear shock tower with the blue springs, but if you are going to be running foam, you may want to leave the regular tower on with a stiffer spring set-up than blue and silver.
01-08-2004, 08:41 PM
#7380
ya, if ya need anything else, just post away
