The Black Kat

Mine only spins 4 seconds and I'm competative....for now

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

I know for fact that they ran a prototype chassis for about 6 to 8 team drivers at snowbirds in february. it was molded with the 3300 batteries in a balanced position. I don't know what else was different on it but it's a start. I'm tired of dremeling my chassis after I get it milled out.

tsuiyuen

then seems there will be some news coming out...
i really love to see any break through from AE...
as TC3 really a great car~~

johnbull

Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

J _ P. We would like to do the KO Gp at west London again but cannot decide just yet. Will have to see how things pan out.

LANCER EVO V. If you look back a page or 2 you will see apic of my son's TC3 with steering levers. I located the levers using 2 of the existing diff case screws. It's alot less complicated and saves drilling more holes in the chassis. It works OK.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

ADVIL: On high bite smooth carpet (foams), use the foam compensators. This helps the rebound effect, and makes them faster. (relative shock shaft speed) If you are on asphalt (rubber tires), dont use them, unless it is really smooth. Removing the foam compensators for parkinglot/asphalt really helps the car hook up. You usually have a softer setup on asphalt, which gives you more suspension travel in and out of corners, having the foam compensators in the bladder caps restricts shock action, making the car feel as if it didnt have as much traction as it could. Of course, if you run very little droop, (6 front, 5 back) then this will not matter much except for the compression cycle of your shocks. I never run more than 3 on the front and 2 on the rear for droop, i use other tuning to control chassis weight distribution. I just use droop screws to give me a MAX, not as a tuning aid.

LancerEvoV: Alot is to be said for the BMI chassis. But honestly, a stock graphite chassis milled for battery spacing works awesome. There are alot of guys that run the BMI chassis, and it is a sweet setup. I have seen them on both TC3's and Xrays... the chassis is impressive. Unless you are looking for something different looking than stock, the performance gains are negligible, excluding personal preference. Some people love a super stiff car, but, my TC3 (to me) feels just as stiff as a BMI TC3 (torsional flex), and the electronics are protected by inevitable hits from the side. As far as me, personally, when Barry Baker/Mike Blackstock adds one to his TC3, then ill see the need for it. If he is as fast as he is with a stock chassis, then all of us can be... well... if we had his skill.


JohnBull: I like the steering setup on that car, simple is the motto. What kind of mods are you/your son running, and if so, are you using a dyno to keep track of motor information? I have recently started extensive dyno work with Ti/Pt based mods, Fantom wrapped arms. I cant seem to justify using an 8 turn, i keep coming back to my 10 turn motors. Not for efficiency or runtime reasons, but the car seems to respond better (with my driving style) with a higher wind and a little more gear... versus a lower wind and less gear. Just looking for input to see if i am the only one on this track.

- DaveW

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

hey guys

i am mounting a personal transponder on an IRS chasis

any good places/tips???

thanks,
Chris08527

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I still like putting it right on top of the steering servo....

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

i have my reciever there

johnbull

Hi Dave.

I did an afternoon of dyno testing yesterday, but like you, I seem to get more confused the more I do.

I have tested Reedy T1 motors and whilst I am sure they are very good for certain applications, I find the Corallys we use more suited to our big asphalt track. They use much stronger magnets and produce much more torque.

Generally speaking, if we start with 10s and go through 9s, 8s, and 7s, the 10, 9 and 8 give about the same sort of torque figures I find. The 10 is plenty more efficient than the 8 but the 8 gives more power. We don't have a duration problem so I go for the 8s. We have tried 7s but the consumption is so great on them that there is no advantage.

On the track the 8 is almost a second a lap quicker than the 10, and it remains strong right through the 5 minutes.

What really is puzzling me at the moment is the fact that the same 8 x 1 Corally motor with conventional Corally endbell, brushes, springs etc, and the same motor with an Orion V2 endbell, Sprint brushes and hard springs, and both timed to 4mm advance will give identical readings on the dyno, but very different lap times on the track. Unfortunately the V2 endbell motor is almost a second a lap slower, even if it is slightly more efficient in terms of run time.

I really don't have a logical answer for this one. Pity because I can get a good 6 or 8 runs out of a set of V2 Sprint brushes, whereas with conventional brushes it's a skim and a set of brushes every run.

Have you had any experience with V2s ?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Omar

iTrader: (15)

what will the front 4 degrees block carriers do to my car? and does anyone have a good parking lot set up? and how much droop works best for you guys?

johnbull

The 4 degree blocks give the car a bit more front caster, making the corner exit better.

You can use droop to adjust your car's handling. Start with 6 front and 4 rear. Those are droop gauge figures. More droop on the rear will give more rear body roll but alsomore bite. Same up front.

Jon Williams

iTrader: (5)

Dave, I had the same results with the two plate chassis setup (not BMI though). I wasn't impressed with the rigidity factor over the stock chassis and I noticed something that I don't have a problem with on the stock graphite chassis: morphing tweak. I found that the two-plate chassis didn't seem to run true. I would make a tweak setting and then when I checked it a run later the tweak had changed slightly because of the chassis flex. It seemed like the top plate didn't keep the bottom plate in line. I know I'm not the only person who had this problem.

I love the stock chassis. It's *super* rigid and once you move the batts inward and open up the motor area for better cooling, it's great.

I've got the car down to 49 oz. race ready, so I've got to add lead weight big-time to compensate when running foams. I'll post some pics of my ride later on. Anyone know of a company who makes *small* lead weights? I'd like to fit them in the center-spine of the chassis to keep the weight central.

-jon

Jon Williams

iTrader: (5)

My TC3.

(BTW, watch out that the antenna doesn't poke you in the eye!)



-jon

Jon Williams

iTrader: (5)

My TC3 w/body.

(Been through a race already...)

-jon

Jon Williams

iTrader: (5)

Oops. TC3 w/body...

-jon