Hpi Pro 4
#7141
Originally posted by acutts
Hi All
My Pro4 has been ballistic since I got it ... but then this weekend it really went south. I have been driving with two diffs since I got the car but after some other drivers using one-ways at my track started getting faster I decided to change to a one-way. Well my car was so loose on power coming out of corners and mid corner, so I changed to a spool to give me the benefits of a one way but able to break at hairpins. The same problem car loose on power out of corners and mid. The rear of the car would not follow the front.
I guess my question is when running a one-way or spool should the rear of the car be loose on acceleration out of corners?? I drove a friends Pro4 and his was fine. I thought maybe my rear diff was slipping so tightened it ... still no cigar ... I am at a loss and think I will have to go back to diff as no matter what I changed car was awful ... it was just drifting and sliding into all corners and out.
Sorry about the essay ... hope someone out there has some advice.
Thanks
Scott
Hi All
My Pro4 has been ballistic since I got it ... but then this weekend it really went south. I have been driving with two diffs since I got the car but after some other drivers using one-ways at my track started getting faster I decided to change to a one-way. Well my car was so loose on power coming out of corners and mid corner, so I changed to a spool to give me the benefits of a one way but able to break at hairpins. The same problem car loose on power out of corners and mid. The rear of the car would not follow the front.
I guess my question is when running a one-way or spool should the rear of the car be loose on acceleration out of corners?? I drove a friends Pro4 and his was fine. I thought maybe my rear diff was slipping so tightened it ... still no cigar ... I am at a loss and think I will have to go back to diff as no matter what I changed car was awful ... it was just drifting and sliding into all corners and out.
Sorry about the essay ... hope someone out there has some advice.
Thanks
Scott
You might want to change the car set-up and the tire setup to make the car more forgiving to drive... Once you get it right, it will be faster in most cases.
The only time I would use a spool/diff is when traction is really high or really low!
You could try softer rear springs, more caster and anti squat, this will make the car more forgiving from the midle of the turn and out! You could also download my set-up from the Hpi Europe site, it works really good on all tracks I have been to so far, even in wet conditions it was great! (just change tires)
Good luck,
Eirik Andreassen
#7142
Thanks Eirik I have downloaded your setup and I will test it out on Wednesday. Would a slipping rear diff cause the car to be really loose with a spool at the front? Also how long are tires good for .. I was using 22's that had done 20+ runs I guess? Think the track might have been too hot as well would this cause sliding?
Also are you using anti-roll bars front and rear?
Do you know where to get the Excel camber link graphite supports?
Thanks for all your help!!!!
Also are you using anti-roll bars front and rear?
Do you know where to get the Excel camber link graphite supports?
Thanks for all your help!!!!
#7143
Hello Acutts,
A slipping rear diff will actually do the opposite, less steering!!
How long the tires are good for depends on how much the surface wear on the tires, temperature and compound.
In cold weather I guess the CS22 will be good for about 5runs, in warmer conditions they will only be good for one run etc.
In really hot conditions they will not work at all, the car will be sliding around.....
I use roll bars front and rear most of the time, but you can remove the rear one and at the same time move the rear shock out on the tower. This will make the car more forgiving to drive as it will give the feeling of more rear traction!
I ordered the Excel parts here: http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/
If you try to force more camber to the tires with your hand, you will see how much it flexes. This really made a difference at my local track!!
No problem mate, just let me know if there is anything else!!
A slipping rear diff will actually do the opposite, less steering!!
How long the tires are good for depends on how much the surface wear on the tires, temperature and compound.
In cold weather I guess the CS22 will be good for about 5runs, in warmer conditions they will only be good for one run etc.
In really hot conditions they will not work at all, the car will be sliding around.....
I use roll bars front and rear most of the time, but you can remove the rear one and at the same time move the rear shock out on the tower. This will make the car more forgiving to drive as it will give the feeling of more rear traction!
I ordered the Excel parts here: http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/
If you try to force more camber to the tires with your hand, you will see how much it flexes. This really made a difference at my local track!!
No problem mate, just let me know if there is anything else!!
#7144
how you do you all achieve your setups using swaybars?
do you leave them on the car and setup your car or take them off and put them back on when you have found the correct spring setting?
and what type of setups are used for carpet?
our track has a long straight and gets technical in the infield.
front stiff/rear soft, front soft/ rear hard...etc...
i'm still learning about cars setups and handling so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
#7145
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by rc-zombies
hmmm...
I was hoping not to install my BMI chassis til Dec...
I may have to install my chassi and check this situation out.... I too run 4.5mm up front and around 4.8-5mm in the rear.
oh btw...did you guys remove .5mm arm mount spacer to adjust the difference going from 2.5 to 3mm chassis?
hmmm...
I was hoping not to install my BMI chassis til Dec...
I may have to install my chassi and check this situation out.... I too run 4.5mm up front and around 4.8-5mm in the rear.
oh btw...did you guys remove .5mm arm mount spacer to adjust the difference going from 2.5 to 3mm chassis?
I adjusted every thing that has to do with roll center by .5mm.
#7146
Originally posted by Eirik
I ordered the Excel parts here: http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/
If you try to force more camber to the tires with your hand, you will see how much it flexes. This really made a difference at my local track!!
No problem mate, just let me know if there is anything else!! [/B]
I ordered the Excel parts here: http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/
If you try to force more camber to the tires with your hand, you will see how much it flexes. This really made a difference at my local track!!
No problem mate, just let me know if there is anything else!! [/B]
I was wondering from your setup you use a Mazda 6 shell ... I have HPI Stratus Aero shells ... is this no good if I use your setup ... I can make new shell if I have to.
Thanks again
#7147
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by racer
how you do you all achieve your setups using swaybars?
do you leave them on the car and setup your car or take them off and put them back on when you have found the correct spring setting?
and what type of setups are used for carpet?
our track has a long straight and gets technical in the infield.
front stiff/rear soft, front soft/ rear hard...etc...
i'm still learning about cars setups and handling so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
how you do you all achieve your setups using swaybars?
do you leave them on the car and setup your car or take them off and put them back on when you have found the correct spring setting?
and what type of setups are used for carpet?
our track has a long straight and gets technical in the infield.
front stiff/rear soft, front soft/ rear hard...etc...
i'm still learning about cars setups and handling so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Check out the back of the manual for the tuning options. Pay very close attention to how your car has traction entering and leaving the corners and adjust according to that. No need to settle for a bad handling car. If you can't figure it out, ask!!! Everyone here is willing to help
Tires depend on your carpet. A good startin point is Plaid (Purple/Orange) front tires, and Purple or Pink rear.
take care
john
#7149
Tech Initiate
Hi
Now i've got the PRO4 for a few weeks and I tried so many times to make the transmission system work as free as possible. Do you have any technic to make it run free and smooth?
Now i've got the PRO4 for a few weeks and I tried so many times to make the transmission system work as free as possible. Do you have any technic to make it run free and smooth?
#7150
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by black_spl
Hi
Now i've got the PRO4 for a few weeks and I tried so many times to make the transmission system work as free as possible. Do you have any technic to make it run free and smooth?
Hi
Now i've got the PRO4 for a few weeks and I tried so many times to make the transmission system work as free as possible. Do you have any technic to make it run free and smooth?
#7151
as Zombies has stated, out of the box the drive train should be very free and smooth. I built my per kit instructions and it spun very free. Although I think I did remove one of the large shims but I can not recall which one. My car has been taken apart for months as I've been working on my HTS chassis kit
#7153
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Re: 0 degree pivot block
Originally posted by JJ187RC
Does anyone have a 0 degree pivot block they want to sell or now of a place that has them in stock so I can biy one?
Does anyone have a 0 degree pivot block they want to sell or now of a place that has them in stock so I can biy one?
try tower:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGPB8&P=7
#7154
Hello again acutts,
I am sure they will get more inn soon....
Anyway, the Mazda 6 body is really good, great traction, good steering, great straight line speed, it makes the car handle really well...!
The Aero 2 is really good also, I have never tried it, but from what I have heard it is really good!
My set up works really good with the PF Stratus also, so it should work with the Hpi body also, just give it a try!
I am sure they will get more inn soon....
Anyway, the Mazda 6 body is really good, great traction, good steering, great straight line speed, it makes the car handle really well...!
The Aero 2 is really good also, I have never tried it, but from what I have heard it is really good!
My set up works really good with the PF Stratus also, so it should work with the Hpi body also, just give it a try!