ralph_c

so if I wanted to use the steel diff I would need to glue the rings on. This would seem the logical solution to me

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Actually, and i have done this to the newer and older style steel outdrives and it works fine, you can notch them to fit the D-style rings. Just take a D-style ring and lay it over the area that it is supposed to sit on the outdrive... it will not lay flat of course, but you can then score with an Xacto blade the inside flat of the ring... onto the outdrive... scratching a mark. Using a cutoff wheel on your dremel you just buzz that area away and you can fit a D-ring on them for the life of the outdrives. Just make sure the ring sits flat. It literally took me 2 minutes an outdrive, and i have had no durability issues. The older style steel outdrives take a little more finesse, because there is more material to remove than the lightened steel outdrives, but it really isnt that big of a deal. For the anally intent, you can use a black sharpie to hide your work. Noone will be the wiser if they are over you as you rebuild your diff. If you guys would like pics, let me know i can tear mine apart and snap a few shots of them, they need rebuilding anyways. Incidentally, using CA on your steel outdrives and rings can cause your diff to feel "wavy" after rebuild, feeling tighter in some spots than others as you rotate the diff by hand. CA (gap filling variety) can dry irregularily under the rings causing this issue. You can imagine what it would do to the rings and balls once you add a 7X1. I guess like anything, practice make perfect, and little error.

- DaveW

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

DaveW great idea. Next diff rebuld will get the DW grind.

Andrew Selvaggi

iTrader: (10)

G'day to all,

Names Andrew age 18, im from the great country of australia, im sure you all know where it is....."KRIKEY".......
I am an EP off road racer TOTALLY AE dedicated and heavily into it, i have tried on-road many times, i first got a FT TC3 2 years ago and had a race or 2 with it in stock and didnt like it so i sold the car. 9 months later i bought a Team TC4 when they came out, and raced it in 4-5 races in modified and the car was absolute crap, no matter what i did it just wouldnt dial in, even the Australian national champ couldnt figure out what was wrong with it. So once again i sold the car.
Now 1 year later i have just ordered a FT TC4 in light of it being a much better car than the team car.
I race modified off road and am very competative (in top 3 in state and top 10 nationally) so i can drive just on-road and me seem not to mix.......i guess why i am posting this is for a little advice for an experience off-roader but a newbie on-roader on what to do and any advice from people that same as me have gone from off to on road. I am going to continue to race off road i just have around 4 months of holidays and i needed a little something extra to do with my time

Any advice would be much appreciated

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

I am a Off roader at hart. But on road is a little different. One broblem I was doing. I would set my steering stops to full lock. Bad idea in touring foam. The car pushed bad. Since I have used some dual rate. The push is about gone.

i_got_m8_4_$85

one more q. i really need new bearings for my car- all exept the ones in the steering rack, i am looking for metal shielded, were would be the best place to get them, i am looking at ebay but some people say that they are not the best quality. i am not really the best driver so i do hit the walls if that has anything to do with it?

tr1kstanc3

iTrader: (18)

im thinking about getting the ft tc4 but i would like to know of an alternative method to locking the battery in place rather than using tape. i noticed there are screw holes for mounting a battery brace but where could i find such a thing? thanks for the input.

-jdt

anthony390

im note sure but you should be able to use the tc3 or rtr tc4 batt. brace

ralph_c

There is going to be a battery bar coming out for those who want one. If you read back in this thread (5/6 pages back or something) there was quite a debate about this.

imr

No.

The battery brace from the tc3/tc4 is longer because it is made for 7 cells.
You can buy the graphite one, but you have to shorten it and make a new hole.
Then you can buy body posts (short ones like for the yok BD) and use the predrilled holes.

mark240973

Losi rear hubs on a TC4

Tried this method at the weekend, but it did not feel right at all on the back

So I chicken out and went back to the asso hubs using the outer hole on the hubs with silver ballstuds inner hole with one washer on the brackets

I am running on Take off CS22 rubber on primafelt GT on an indoor track.

I tried the set up with silver ballstuds inner hole with one washer on inboard brackets and outer hole black ball stud & no washer on losi hubs. The idea being to get a flat parallel link for more grip.

The car seemed to hook mid turn, so I guess I need to smooth out the transition because I had too much grip on the rear.

Any ideas guys.

jiml

iTrader: (3)

Does BMI sell their battery brace separately? I have the BMI chassis kit, and it came with the brace. You can also tape the batteries in if you want. Jason even milled out the bottom of the chassis for the tape.

I taped my batteries in twice. The third time the tape got caught like 3-4 times. At that point I said what am I stupid and went back to using the brace.

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

Can you explain a bit more?You reduced the push by using less steering throw?Thanks.

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Yes. With to much throw the front tires would not do there job. Try it you will see. I think that is most of our problem with the car.

In offroad we want lock to lock steering. In foam sedan we do not. We are travelling to fast and with a bunch of traction for the steering to be usefull at full lock. On high speeds you will notice a better feel with the car. And the flowing sections of the track.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

#31126 - Battery Strap Kit for FT TC4

i've been using this since its been out, probably a good 50+ packs and not a single sign of battery ejection. i use the #1787 Battery Strap thumbscrew in conjuction with the strap.