Mandirigma

I've just finished my first big race weekend with the car. Im running 21.5 bl with no timing on the esc as per race rules with an orion pro stock motor geared with a 2.94fdr. I've updated quite a bit of parts being the following:

Narrow CF Lipo chassis
CF Top Deck (Soft)
Alum Bulkheads front and rear
Upgraded threaded Shocks (3racing Zero part)
Vertical motor mount

First off, iMO, the car handled really well. I finished 8th in the A-main up against a field predominantly made up of T3's. The car responds predictably to chassis adjustments which means to me that parts are relatively well machined and true. However when i did bin it i found that i needed to put it back on a set up board to get settings back into place more often than the Xrays. Aside from that i have no complaints. A lot of people on the track were pretty impressed at well at the level of the kit given its price.

Im not sure how it will respond running faster motors but for the class that im in at the moment it does just fine.

Mandirigma

The kit springs aren't bad...but saying that they arent that good either. It really depends what you are using them for. If its just for bashing around a track or parking lot it should do fine even for the silver can. If your thinking of racing a little the threaded shocks are heaps better so you can adjust your ride height more accurately.

VIP_SPEC

iTrader: (3)

Was more referring to the spring rate rather then the dampers,

Thanks anyways

Mandirigma

The spring rate is 3racing 5.5turn spring so its middle of the road in terms of rate.

CTRJ

iTrader: (13)

Question for you guys--

How competitive is the Zero S versus better cars like the TC6, Xray, Tamiya, ect? The Zero S is almost 200g heavier than the other cars. Are there key upgrades that make the car better?

Thanks!

jseiwert

i built my kit with the 19 center pully. im going to run a 5.5 brushless motor and was wondering if anyone knows what pinion gear i should get?

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

Get the narrow chassis kit, alum shocks (you can fine tune your ride height), get the aluminium spur adaptor (you may need the carbon steel spur shaft and washer kit, and 19t/20t pulleys), get CVDs for the rear, get swaybar kits.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Depends all on track lenght,if it tech or smooth,what esc your running.
You should start with a FDR of 7.5 and work your way from there.
Check the motor and esc temp every 5 minutes so you can find out if you need to gear down or up.

regards Roy

texastc

iTrader: (2)

You guys that have raced with the zero S, are there any parts that you would recommend getting as spares. Like a arms or steering hubs? And os it true that xray parts work as replacements?

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

You can use some Xray parts as mentioned before but only when you have them lying around.
When buying spares, Xray parts are more expensive then the original Sakura parts so i wouldn't buy them.

regards Roy

Firefox

iTrader: (2)

Anyone in the US stock the Sakura Zero S and parts ?

seaball

iTrader: (9)

http://www.tqrcracing.com/
http://store.hkshobby.com/

i can't speak to the stock status at either place, but both are located on the west coast. i've ordered from both as well. the only complaint that i have/had was that hks had no way of alerting me that half of my order was backordered. so, i lost the short week in waiting for delivery before realizing that it was missing some quantities. not earth shattering.

CoCoLapin

iTrader: (1)

Hi, i read all thread and didnt find a answer...
I am interresting in buying this car to run on a out door asphalt track, using a 4.5 BL + Tekin RS pro with foam tyres.

I was wondering if the transmission especialy the gear diff. could handle such config? Anyone have tried anything similar?

over gear

iTrader: (18)

i ran a Tekin RS + 8.5t in a tight indoor high grip track... no problem.

over gear

iTrader: (18)

update of my Sakura S.





Thank you HKS Hobby for the parts support