ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

That does help, thank you very much! I'll build the TC6.1, and see if there is a 6.2 in my near future, depending on how it all goes.

I looking to get a set of those Reflex Racing lower shock towers for the added body clearance.

SRJRacing

These Reflex parts look sweet man!

Has anyone fitted big bore shock to there 6.1? My brother bought the Durango and man those shocks are smooth.

Looking at some of the current chassis I've noticed that the steering arms sit underneath the steering blocks instead of on top in the case of the Tc6.1, which I presume is for a lower cog. Anyone tried it? Looks like it can work, will try it this weekend

purpleturk

iTrader: (18)

do you like the gear diffs over the spools?What are some pros and cons of them on asphalt.If you only had the cash to buy one gear diff now would you replace the front spool and leave the back ball diff or leave the front and replace the back? I was looking and the car i bought had the rsd bladders and drilled caps.I can say that I think the camber in the negtive seems a little better in the curves than postive camber.At least it was saturday night when it was 60degrees outside.

RussF

iTrader: (22)

For me yes I like the gear diff over a spool in the front. If I could only buy one gear diff I would put it in the rear and move the ball diff up front and run it tighter so it offered a little slip but not much. I cant ever recall any positive camber being used on any touring car setup. 0 camber would be the least used but usually something around .5 to 1.5 degrees negative camber would be used front and rear.

purpleturk

iTrader: (18)

I thought the positive camber in the rear was a little strange too.but that was in the tc6 factory setup sheet

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Many of us run the steering hubs on opposite sides with the ball studs on the bottom. I think Rick Howart was doing that first.

RussF

iTrader: (22)

That is definitely a typo, lol. Its funny they put a "-" symbol on the front camber spec but not the rear . My old manual says 4.5 degrees. Assuming they meant -4.5 degrees thats still quite excessive. Seems to me there was some sort of correction or insert posted for that setup at some point.

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

Why would you run the steering blocks upside down? What are he benefits?

Wil Holmes

iTrader: (4)

Alright guys I'm running a TC6 with dial a grips in USVTA. What is something I can do to free up the car. The belt tensions are lose alittle the bearings have been cleaned. I'm only able to rotate the tires about 1 3/4 rotation. Is that free as I can get this car or is there something else I can do? I'm still a new racer also only been racing sense march so my driving skill also has a factor but I feel like there might something that will free up the car a slightly bit more. The set up is perfect for the smaller tight track I run at. Just wanted to see if there was anything I could do.

Keven3707

Hey all. I am new to this thread, and new to touring cars in general. I just bought a virtually new TC6 with a TC6.1 rear diff. and a spool up front. Running a Novak GTB and a Tekin Redline 17.5 turn motor and an Orion vds 1007 (0.07 sec 138 oz. in) servo with 4 nice shells for 120$. The problem is I have taken it out to an empty parking lot (after raising the ride height) and had a great time drifting around. And not drifting slow like you see some guys doing. I had a blast and now that I have seen the whole VTA look I like it even more. Should I sell this car and buy a TC4 and build a super fast brushless demon with the profits? or just build it out of this? Did I get a good deal at 120$? If so, what is it worth approximately? I'm not trying to be greedy, but I saw a chance to pick the TC6 up cheap and I know that they aren't that cheap to build.

AudioStylz

iTrader: (15)

You can build a VTA car with your current TC6. I have a TC6 setup for USGT and it does very well for me in practice. Only have 1 club race on it so far with the dozen other runs in practice.

For $120 you got a TC6 and 4 good shells, sounds like a good deal to me. I got mine for $100, came with a good servo, spare front and rear diffs, set of front and rear arms, body, older USGT wheels/tires, and a few other spare parts.

Keven3707

Mine came with the gtb, the tekin redline, the orion servo and a spectrum receiver. So it was just throw a batt in her, bind n' play for 120$ I am happy with it. I turned down a 300$ offer for it already.

AudioStylz

iTrader: (15)

What turn motor? Sounds like it would be fairly easy to turn that TC6 into a USGT car for fairly cheap. USGT use 21.5 motors.

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

I got to race my TC6.1 for the first time last night after having run a TC4 all last year and I love it. It is precise and soo much smoother to drive with a F/R gear diff over a spool / ball diff in the TC4.

Kaw1000

iTrader: (7)

Pavement or carpet? I'm close to building one. I'm running 21.5 class. Going need some tips. First TC car for me.