Hot Bodies Cyclone
12-20-2006, 07:44 PM
#6376
Originally Posted by jinkasama
17lbs. i had the white springs.. i dont know whats wrong but it influences the ride height. i havent try another spring yet.. the shock lenght is 64.5mm .. but probably putting the electronics on will decrease the initial ride height..hopefully
12-20-2006, 10:08 PM
#6377
shock length won't affect ride height, just where the piston is inside of the body.
Ride height is determined by the length of the lower shock end, spring length, collar position, number of shims under toe blocks, and whether you're using the outer hole on the a-arm like you're supposed to.
My guess is that he has the wrong lower shock end, or is using the inner hole on the a-arm.
Ride height is determined by the length of the lower shock end, spring length, collar position, number of shims under toe blocks, and whether you're using the outer hole on the a-arm like you're supposed to.
My guess is that he has the wrong lower shock end, or is using the inner hole on the a-arm.
12-21-2006, 05:30 AM
#6378
Originally Posted by floodo1
shock length won't affect ride height, just where the piston is inside of the body.
Ride height is determined by the length of the lower shock end, spring length, collar position, number of shims under toe blocks, and whether you're using the outer hole on the a-arm like you're supposed to.
My guess is that he has the wrong lower shock end, or is using the inner hole on the a-arm.
Ride height is determined by the length of the lower shock end, spring length, collar position, number of shims under toe blocks, and whether you're using the outer hole on the a-arm like you're supposed to.
My guess is that he has the wrong lower shock end, or is using the inner hole on the a-arm.
12-21-2006, 06:00 AM
#6379
anybody know if the new hot bodies ti nitrade diff screws break? snaped 2 edit screws and 2 normal 
12-21-2006, 06:05 AM
#6381
what screw do you use marcos ?
12-21-2006, 06:17 AM
#6384
HOw to Build a Cyclone Diff
Marcos: Please help us fix this diff pblm once and for all! Please give us your tips on how to properly build the diff for Cyclones, especially for those of us running modified class motors- obviously we are doing something wrong, or there is some inside info/tips that we are ignoring or have missed...ANYONE with true, time and battle tested way of properly building a Cyclone diff for modified racing, please share that info now for all of us to see and put to the test...
12-21-2006, 06:22 AM
#6385
i build mine as per manual and on average breaking 1 per month now using the hb ti nitrade screw. which screw is the strongest the edit titanium the hb titanium nirade or the standard ? 
12-21-2006, 06:38 AM
#6386
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Marcos: Please help us fix this diff pblm once and for all! Please give us your tips on how to properly build the diff for Cyclones, especially for those of us running modified class motors- obviously we are doing something wrong, or there is some inside info/tips that we are ignoring or have missed...ANYONE with true, time and battle tested way of properly building a Cyclone diff for modified racing, please share that info now for all of us to see and put to the test...
12-21-2006, 06:38 AM
#6387
Man, I must be a the lucky one with these diff screws. Of course, now that I said that, I'll probably break one every run from here on. 
yyhayyim - The Surikarn car you have coming from me has Associated diff screws in it. I had to drill out the outdrives to make them fit, but it is well worth it. I NEVER broke a diff screw on that car. I ran it in 19t and stock with no issues what so ever.
Also, the standard (black version) Cyclone that I am running right now has the delrin diffs and using the stock diff screws. I've run this car now for about 6 race weekends - mostly all in 19T - and have not had a problem at all.
What confuses me most is how these things just snap. My buddy Larry has gone through probably 6 diff screws already, 3 of which have been Associated screws. We even changed from aluminum outdrives to delrin ones to see if it made a difference and it seems to have helped somewhat - but they still break.
Moral of the story - I have NO idea what is going on with these diff screws. I fully expected my stock ones to snap within a couple packs, but they have been fine since I built the car. I know this doesn't help anyone and it doesn't help me either. Also, I'm not so sure titanium is the way to go. It's a harder material, but could also be more brittle. Maybe a much higher strength steel is the way to go.
Marcos, maybe we should get Breiner to make some diff screws.
yyhayyim - The Surikarn car you have coming from me has Associated diff screws in it. I had to drill out the outdrives to make them fit, but it is well worth it. I NEVER broke a diff screw on that car. I ran it in 19t and stock with no issues what so ever.
Also, the standard (black version) Cyclone that I am running right now has the delrin diffs and using the stock diff screws. I've run this car now for about 6 race weekends - mostly all in 19T - and have not had a problem at all.
What confuses me most is how these things just snap. My buddy Larry has gone through probably 6 diff screws already, 3 of which have been Associated screws. We even changed from aluminum outdrives to delrin ones to see if it made a difference and it seems to have helped somewhat - but they still break.
Moral of the story - I have NO idea what is going on with these diff screws. I fully expected my stock ones to snap within a couple packs, but they have been fine since I built the car. I know this doesn't help anyone and it doesn't help me either. Also, I'm not so sure titanium is the way to go. It's a harder material, but could also be more brittle. Maybe a much higher strength steel is the way to go.
Marcos, maybe we should get Breiner to make some diff screws.
12-21-2006, 06:40 AM
#6388
Originally Posted by schreff
Man, I must be a the lucky one with these diff screws. Of course, now that I said that, I'll probably break one every run from here on.
yyhayyim - The Surikarn car you have coming from me has Associated diff screws in it. I had to drill out the outdrives to make them fit, but it is well worth it. I NEVER broke a diff screw on that car. I ran it in 19t and stock with no issues what so ever.
Also, the standard (black version) Cyclone that I am running right now has the delrin diffs and using the stock diff screws. I've run this car now for about 6 race weekends - mostly all in 19T - and have not had a problem at all.
What confuses me most is how these things just snap. My buddy Larry has gone through probably 6 diff screws already, 3 of which have been Associated screws. We even changed from aluminum outdrives to delrin ones to see if it made a difference and it seems to have helped somewhat - but they still break.
Moral of the story - I have NO idea what is going on with these diff screws. I fully expected my stock ones to snap within a couple packs, but they have been fine since I built the car. I know this doesn't help anyone and it doesn't help me either. Also, I'm not so sure titanium is the way to go. It's a harder material, but could also be more brittle. Maybe a much higher strength steel is the way to go.
Marcos, maybe we should get Breiner to make some diff screws.
yyhayyim - The Surikarn car you have coming from me has Associated diff screws in it. I had to drill out the outdrives to make them fit, but it is well worth it. I NEVER broke a diff screw on that car. I ran it in 19t and stock with no issues what so ever.
Also, the standard (black version) Cyclone that I am running right now has the delrin diffs and using the stock diff screws. I've run this car now for about 6 race weekends - mostly all in 19T - and have not had a problem at all.
What confuses me most is how these things just snap. My buddy Larry has gone through probably 6 diff screws already, 3 of which have been Associated screws. We even changed from aluminum outdrives to delrin ones to see if it made a difference and it seems to have helped somewhat - but they still break.
Moral of the story - I have NO idea what is going on with these diff screws. I fully expected my stock ones to snap within a couple packs, but they have been fine since I built the car. I know this doesn't help anyone and it doesn't help me either. Also, I'm not so sure titanium is the way to go. It's a harder material, but could also be more brittle. Maybe a much higher strength steel is the way to go.
Marcos, maybe we should get Breiner to make some diff screws.
)
12-21-2006, 06:41 AM
#6389
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Marcos: Please help us fix this diff pblm once and for all! Please give us your tips on how to properly build the diff for Cyclones, especially for those of us running modified class motors- obviously we are doing something wrong, or there is some inside info/tips that we are ignoring or have missed...ANYONE with true, time and battle tested way of properly building a Cyclone diff for modified racing, please share that info now for all of us to see and put to the test...
12-21-2006, 06:42 AM
#6390
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
I have a list for him , im just waiting for him to get cought up!! (I need my new 1/12th scale for the birds )
)