4LikesNEW HOBBYWING STOCK SUPERCHARGED SOFTWARE
01-20-2013, 03:17 PM
01-20-2013, 03:23 PM
My experience in 12th scale 1S/13.5T boosted, is that on 3.2V or lower, the cut-off stops the car, but on 3.4V, it first starts running slow, so you can find a save spot for your car. this is after approx 11-12 minutes on 6400mAh.
01-20-2013, 03:40 PM
Tried the new 508 no timing on Friday. Wow what a difference. My car would actually lock up going into the corner if I was too hard on the brakes. Never felt that with the Esc before. Good job.
01-20-2013, 03:45 PM
Tech Apprentice
How to get the v3 in blinky? I know its in the esc as #2 setup. But how to get it there?
01-20-2013, 06:05 PM
If you practice for like 15min -20min then you might .. but at that point the battery has faded and your not getting much out of your practice run in the late stages.
01-20-2013, 07:21 PM
Tech Rookie
Hobbywing V3.1 Guess this is the king of the hill now?
I guess that this is the most advanced esc right now. Is here anything that compares?
But what I really need to know, and you guys seem the most knowledgeable; is how are the bullet connectors attached to the ESC board and the Motor Boards to attach wires, is it a special connector with a pin in the end to fit into the hole on the board or are they regular bullet connectors that are soldered on with any (special) type of solder?
Thanks a lot,
R1
But what I really need to know, and you guys seem the most knowledgeable; is how are the bullet connectors attached to the ESC board and the Motor Boards to attach wires, is it a special connector with a pin in the end to fit into the hole on the board or are they regular bullet connectors that are soldered on with any (special) type of solder?
Thanks a lot,
R1
01-20-2013, 11:32 PM
Tech Addict
I guess that this is the most advanced esc right now. Is here anything that compares?
But what I really need to know, and you guys seem the most knowledgeable; is how are the bullet connectors attached to the ESC board and the Motor Boards to attach wires, is it a special connector with a pin in the end to fit into the hole on the board or are they regular bullet connectors that are soldered on with any (special) type of solder?
Thanks a lot,
R1
But what I really need to know, and you guys seem the most knowledgeable; is how are the bullet connectors attached to the ESC board and the Motor Boards to attach wires, is it a special connector with a pin in the end to fit into the hole on the board or are they regular bullet connectors that are soldered on with any (special) type of solder?
Thanks a lot,
R1
01-20-2013, 11:38 PM
Tech Addict
1: Plug the speedo into a computer and use the PC Software to change modes (on the first tab when you connect the speedo)
2: Using a 2-in-1 programming box, connect the speedo and switch it on. Once it's gone to the first item, press the R/P button. This will show you which mode you are in. From there, press the value button to change between stored modes. Don't forget to press ok
01-21-2013, 12:51 AM
Tech Rookie
Is it bad to be running cool? I've been running the xerun 60a 8.5t combo for a couple days & can't seem to get any temp gains. Maybe slightly warm, but barely noticeable by touch. I've geared up & down to no effect on temps on motor/esc
Timing is maxed, punch is at 1.
Timing is maxed, punch is at 1.
01-21-2013, 01:05 AM
Tech Addict
Are you happy with the speed of the car ?
01-21-2013, 01:10 AM
Tech Rookie
01-21-2013, 01:29 AM
01-21-2013, 04:37 AM
Punch at 1 is very low. I've never run below 7 myself. I have a feeling that someone, somewhere mentioned that the ESC needs to be at quite a high punch level for the timing to actually engage (never tested myself).
01-21-2013, 04:37 AM
Interesting approach. But I would also call the 22Krpm a match as well, which means .5deg per step.
Along time ago, Micheal, and Angelo came on here and posted (basicly when I complained really loudly), that the HW was now using steps instead of the "true" degrees. The old FW used degrees (I believe 1224 was one of the last that used "true" degrees.)
I am sure they had their reasons, but Micheal gave a quick formula to calculate between the two, and it worked out to ~=.6 deg/per step, and max 38 degs timing.
I think your approach was very original. Bravo!
Cheers,
Shawn.
Along time ago, Micheal, and Angelo came on here and posted (basicly when I complained really loudly), that the HW was now using steps instead of the "true" degrees. The old FW used degrees (I believe 1224 was one of the last that used "true" degrees.)
I am sure they had their reasons, but Micheal gave a quick formula to calculate between the two, and it worked out to ~=.6 deg/per step, and max 38 degs timing.
I think your approach was very original. Bravo!
Cheers,
Shawn.
01-21-2013, 06:27 AM
Tech Rookie
Thanks a lot, been trying to track them down, closest I can find is called a Solder Cup Terminal Pin. I know this forum seems to be all about setting up the speedo's, but the knowledge is here. Any idea on where to purchase these?
And is the V3.1 the best speedo ever made? Anything expect the (HW) branded ones like Orion or Hpi Flux pro, this good?
Thanks.