tc5 man

I run mostly on high grip clay indoors but the MM4 seems to give me what i want compared to the MM3 natural good steering and turn in jumps good .

The only thing I need to do is try different Front tires to come down the twitchy ness but that's not hard to fix though . Only thing is with the MM4 is if you roll off on the throttle to a corner it will get to much off power steering or to much weight will transfer to the Front end . So you got to drive it on throttle a little and harder out of the corner .

But i heard that's how you drive a MM4 though .

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Carpet setup question with these assumptions:

- Mid motor parts available, prefer rear motor though
- Plastic Dime Chassis (the softest one) is only available
- No V2 parts, so basically a DEX210
- carbon diggity towers available
- weights for chassis available
- Tires limited to barcodes or slicks, no "carpet Pins"
- Ball and gear diff available
- 17.5 blinky racing

Thoughts on what setup to start with?

Dino_D

Carpet:
Mid Motor for sure. (harder plastic chassis preferred)
Weight under servo if you need more steering
You should get carpet pins, schumacher or bdoots cause barcodes will slide a lot.
Gear diff for sure, as ball diff won't last on carpet
Try to use an Avid slipper or one of those Slip Lockers.
Motor timing cranked up 30 to 40 degrees
Run a smaller spur gear - dont use the stock 81 or 87

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

As I've said, I'm tempted to keep the 210 for comparison purposes since I know it well and know it's a good car. I may pick up a 22 and find that I hate it for some reason. I don't know. I do know that they are the only ones that seem to understand suspension geometry. Remember, Durango just copied AE's. You are all driving B3/4/5 geometry.

tc5 man

I would try a different buggy and see what you like better first . All drivers are different as you know and what they like .

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Rules for the track will be no pin style tires to keep it nice. Past experience on this track at least with a stadium truck the barcodes worked well, but of course wore faster than I would have liked.

Thinking of trying garolite disks, but do have avid spurs on hand.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Here's a question. If I can make the chassis style that I want for the 210, the way I want it with side by side saddles, would anyone here be interested in it? I have the ability to cutout chassis with a built in kick out of carbon fiber. The only prototype I made had no kick but I can do it and would actually prefer it. I could easily keep the car and use it for development and comparison purposes.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

What's our consensus on the best set of snap ring pliers for the ball diff? I was thinking of trying these but don't want to buy another set that is too large:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

PS, I did go back and search and it seems like the answers are fairly sparse. Thanks!

psl

I bought those same pliers from Home Depot. They are great. They come with extra tips for different size rings. I think I paid about $25 for them. You will not be disappointed.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

Whatever you do, don't buy the harbor freight snap ring pliers. They sucked. I ended up taking a dremel to a set of cheap wire cutters and made a set of snap ring pliers.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Hey Fred, wanted to mention that ReDo73 has made a custom chassis that I was considering. It has been a while since I have talked about it but it looks like you can run a saddle pack setup or a shorty in wide config instead of down the middle. I ended up buying the exotek graphite chassis for now, and I'll probably pickup the DIMEC20 chassis too. I'm curious why you would want to run Saddle packs? it makes the car SOOOOO heavy. I get tons of run time with the 4600 shorty from SMC. Good power too.

Here's a link to Redo73's profile.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/re-do73-162722.html

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

On lower grip tracks, to get rear traction you need some weight on the rear so the back end doesn't slide out on corner entry. I'd prefer it not be on the very back of the car. Besides I'd like to get weight down elsewhere.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

My car has quite a bit of weight on the rear with my shorty down the middle all the way back and ESC in front. In fact I think it's better with the battery pushed up against my ESC instead of all the way back. Have you marked the center point of your chassis for balancing? What ratio of front to back weight are you trying to achieve?

I think it would be fairly easy to modify the DIMEC20 chassis for saddle packs AND WIDE shorty setup.

tc5 man

I have my ESC in the rear in the inline with the Shorty centered with the foam blocks and its more planted in stable that way rotates better. What is the difference with the ESC up Front against the servo ? I thought about doing that but i would have to use longer wire on the ESC doesn't seem as neat with the wires.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I thought about putting my ESC under the rear shelf but this didn't work so well with my fan. I don't actually need the fan it seems but it's been cold so we'll see this summer when it's 110 outside at Hot Rod Hobbies. I've found running my ESC up front I can run the battery all the way back with about 5-6mm or so of clearance to move it forward. When it's all the way back it seems the car is biased to the rear. When I push it up to the block towards the ESC it seems like the car is about balanced 50/50. I need to find the midway point and see. I've also just installed the graphite chassis so I'm not sure how much different it is from the alum in terms of front to rear weight differential.