Durango DEX210 Thread
I thought about putting my ESC under the rear shelf but this didn't work so well with my fan. I don't actually need the fan it seems but it's been cold so we'll see this summer when it's 110 outside at Hot Rod Hobbies. I've found running my ESC up front I can run the battery all the way back with about 5-6mm or so of clearance to move it forward. When it's all the way back it seems the car is biased to the rear. When I push it up to the block towards the ESC it seems like the car is about balanced 50/50. I need to find the midway point and see. I've also just installed the graphite chassis so I'm not sure how much different it is from the alum in terms of front to rear weight differential.
Yea im running the stock V2 +8 chassis still. I did remove the battery block spacers to move the shorty more with the weight balance . Seems like having the Shorty pack placed in the center or the Rear works the best .
I did try it toward the front but i wont do that again it kept on jumping nose high and it was a whole lot quicker to much actually lol. However i was running a treaded tire up Front and a Slick in the Rear yea dint like that to much .
The only reason you'd want a 50/50 weight distribution is if you had the same size tires all the way around. In mm I want no less than 65% on the rear.
I can't get myself to get rid of the car. I have a hunch about the 22 2.0 that I believe is correct but it's a big leap of faith to get rid of the car I know to find out. If I'm wrong, I'm left without a car. If I'm right, I can sell one. We've got a new indoor off-road track opening in February so I'd like to go into there with something I know. I'm still working on my telescoping driveshaft conversion for it and my carbon wing so I've got a couple of excuses to hang onto it.
I can't get myself to get rid of the car. I have a hunch about the 22 2.0 that I believe is correct but it's a big leap of faith to get rid of the car I know to find out. If I'm wrong, I'm left without a car. If I'm right, I can sell one. We've got a new indoor off-road track opening in February so I'd like to go into there with something I know. I'm still working on my telescoping driveshaft conversion for it and my carbon wing so I've got a couple of excuses to hang onto it.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Thanks guys for the snap ring pliers comments.
I decided to play with the front end of the car. If I'm going to keep it, I'm going to see if I can fix what I don't like. I run inline axles and 20° of front caster. The lower caster gives better low speed cornering. I don't have a problem with high speed steering twitchiness because I run a decent amount of negative exponential on the transmitter. That really helps things. I've always run inline steering because I didn't like the way that the front end moves over more drastically front left to right just by turning the wheel. It only gets worse with more caster. I've run this way going back to the original JRX2.
I decided to look at the scrub radius. An interesting thing happened when I measured it. It's worse with inline axles than at 4mm trailing. I didn't expect that. As a result, the car leans more to the outside in a corner with inline axles than trailing. That's not a good thing btw. The car stays nearly flat with 4mm and 20° caster. Fortunately most of you run trailing axles already. The reduced lean will certainly affect my camber locations a bit now. I have a hunch that might explain this but I need to take more measurements. Incidentally, I never saw this before because I always checked everything ready to run. This time I used wheels only with no tires.
As a tip for the rear end, if you run 3° rear kick, the stock mounting for the upper end of the shock is fine. If you run less rear kick, add a 1mm shim between the tower and the first nut to change the shock to the corresponding new angle of the arm. A 0° rear kick needs 3mm shim. A 1° rear kick needs 2mm shim. A 2° rear kick needs 1mm shim. A 3° rear kick needs no shim. There's no room for more. Here's the orientation for no rear kick. It goes bolt-tower-3mm shim-nut-shock-nut.
I decided to look at the scrub radius. An interesting thing happened when I measured it. It's worse with inline axles than at 4mm trailing. I didn't expect that. As a result, the car leans more to the outside in a corner with inline axles than trailing. That's not a good thing btw. The car stays nearly flat with 4mm and 20° caster. Fortunately most of you run trailing axles already. The reduced lean will certainly affect my camber locations a bit now. I have a hunch that might explain this but I need to take more measurements. Incidentally, I never saw this before because I always checked everything ready to run. This time I used wheels only with no tires.
As a tip for the rear end, if you run 3° rear kick, the stock mounting for the upper end of the shock is fine. If you run less rear kick, add a 1mm shim between the tower and the first nut to change the shock to the corresponding new angle of the arm. A 0° rear kick needs 3mm shim. A 1° rear kick needs 2mm shim. A 2° rear kick needs 1mm shim. A 3° rear kick needs no shim. There's no room for more. Here's the orientation for no rear kick. It goes bolt-tower-3mm shim-nut-shock-nut.
Last edited by fredswain; 01-06-2015 at 09:29 PM.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
lost my link to the conversion list for parts for v1 to v2, anyone got a link to the full list.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
pic check
esc on carbon shelf : clearance over saddle pack: 7075 t6 3m thick chassis before pocketing for the battery and x-ponder. the pocketing lowers the batt and x-ponder 1.5mm lower than stock and the final chassis is 10 gr lighter than the stock 1.5mm 6061t6 chassis .this one won't bend at the wire conduit or the droop screws, the next one will be 3mm carbon fiber, milled out like this one with integrated smaller side pods. : Toxic Tops Shuttle body.
Last edited by Lone Star; 01-07-2015 at 06:23 PM.
Tech Rookie
Looking for a indoor clay high bite setup. Stock class. What gearing is working well? I'm currently running MM3.
You want bullet plugs like the ones in that picture a few pages back, or like these
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=162
These will work with the low power demands of a buggy, they will work but they are not preferred.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ectors-10-Male
http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=162
These will work with the low power demands of a buggy, they will work but they are not preferred.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ectors-10-Male
The smc-racing.net link does not work. what are the plugs you found in that website?
I am setting up my dex210v2 with a 17.5 t motor and an Orca VXX Vritra esc but don't want to solder the esc cable directly onto the motor. what king of plugs should I get? I'd like to do something like this: http://mtgk.mine.nu/blog/wp-content/...1/IMG_0552.jpg Any thoughts about that?
Also, does anybody have any tips of weight reduction for the buggy?
cheers
i run 69 spur 31 pinion on my trinity motor with 50 degrees of timing.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
DRIVESHAFT 65MM TYPE B (2PCS) TD310437
GEARBOX SET (TYPE B) TD310459
CHASSIS SIDE POD SET (+8MM) TD320215
MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B) TD320227
ALUMINIUM STEERING PLATE TD320157
MAIN CHASSIS PLATE (+8MM) (TYPE B) TD320240
BUMPER & REAR TOP DECK SET (TYPE B) TD320269
REAR CHASSIS BRACE SET (TYPE B) TD320270
DIMEC X BALL END SET (BLACK) TD330591
SUSPENSION ARMS FRONT: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330594
BIG BORE SHOCK BODY: 21.5MM STROKE (1PC) TD330596
SHOCK SHAFT : FRONT (42.5MM 2PCS) TD330597
SHOCK TOWER SET (TYPE B) TD330598
RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B) TD330599
BIG BORE SPRING RETAINER (TYPE B) TD330600
2MM HEX BALL M3X10MM (4PCS) TD330601
2MM HEX BALL M3X7MM (4PCS) TD330602
SILICONE O-RING P-3 (3X2MM 8PCS) (S40 PURPLE) TD330609
SUSPENSION ARMS REAR: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330712
DEX210 CAB FORWARD BODY SET (INCLUDES DECALS & MASKS) TD402031
Has anybody noticed on the Exotek website now when you try to checkout and use exiting billing address it wont let you go past the page to shipping details ? You cant completely checkout.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Here you go -
DRIVESHAFT 65MM TYPE B (2PCS) TD310437
GEARBOX SET (TYPE B) TD310459
CHASSIS SIDE POD SET (+8MM) TD320215
MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B) TD320227
ALUMINIUM STEERING PLATE TD320157
MAIN CHASSIS PLATE (+8MM) (TYPE B) TD320240
BUMPER & REAR TOP DECK SET (TYPE B) TD320269
REAR CHASSIS BRACE SET (TYPE B) TD320270
DIMEC X BALL END SET (BLACK) TD330591
SUSPENSION ARMS FRONT: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330594
BIG BORE SHOCK BODY: 21.5MM STROKE (1PC) TD330596
SHOCK SHAFT : FRONT (42.5MM 2PCS) TD330597
SHOCK TOWER SET (TYPE B) TD330598
RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B) TD330599
BIG BORE SPRING RETAINER (TYPE B) TD330600
2MM HEX BALL M3X10MM (4PCS) TD330601
2MM HEX BALL M3X7MM (4PCS) TD330602
SILICONE O-RING P-3 (3X2MM 8PCS) (S40 PURPLE) TD330609
SUSPENSION ARMS REAR: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330712
DEX210 CAB FORWARD BODY SET (INCLUDES DECALS & MASKS) TD402031
DRIVESHAFT 65MM TYPE B (2PCS) TD310437
GEARBOX SET (TYPE B) TD310459
CHASSIS SIDE POD SET (+8MM) TD320215
MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B) TD320227
ALUMINIUM STEERING PLATE TD320157
MAIN CHASSIS PLATE (+8MM) (TYPE B) TD320240
BUMPER & REAR TOP DECK SET (TYPE B) TD320269
REAR CHASSIS BRACE SET (TYPE B) TD320270
DIMEC X BALL END SET (BLACK) TD330591
SUSPENSION ARMS FRONT: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330594
BIG BORE SHOCK BODY: 21.5MM STROKE (1PC) TD330596
SHOCK SHAFT : FRONT (42.5MM 2PCS) TD330597
SHOCK TOWER SET (TYPE B) TD330598
RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B) TD330599
BIG BORE SPRING RETAINER (TYPE B) TD330600
2MM HEX BALL M3X10MM (4PCS) TD330601
2MM HEX BALL M3X7MM (4PCS) TD330602
SILICONE O-RING P-3 (3X2MM 8PCS) (S40 PURPLE) TD330609
SUSPENSION ARMS REAR: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330712
DEX210 CAB FORWARD BODY SET (INCLUDES DECALS & MASKS) TD402031
what would people consider the must haves to get it setup as a dex210v2 form a performance perspective?
I am thinking this:
DRIVESHAFT 65MM TYPE B (2PCS) TD310437
GEARBOX SET (TYPE B) TD310459
CHASSIS SIDE POD SET (+8MM) TD320215
MOTOR GUARD (TYPE B) TD320227
MAIN CHASSIS PLATE (+8MM) (TYPE B) TD320240
BUMPER & REAR TOP DECK SET (TYPE B) TD320269
REAR CHASSIS BRACE SET (TYPE B) TD320270
SUSPENSION ARMS FRONT: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330594
SHOCK TOWER SET (TYPE B) TD330598
RR SUSPENSION HANGER -2MM LRC (3 DEGREE) (TYPE B) TD330599
SUSPENSION ARMS REAR: 1 PAIR LEFT & RIGHT (TYPE B) TD330712
I am assuming this one I can just limit uptravel?
BIG BORE SHOCK BODY: 21.5MM STROKE (1PC) TD330596
SHOCK SHAFT : FRONT (42.5MM 2PCS) TD330597
trying to debate getting the parts versus finding a nice used roller and dropping the goodies on it from the one I have that has a variety of stuff on it too.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
We have been receiving orders all morning as normal. Sorry if your account is causing problems, please email and I will work it out. performance@ exotekracingdotcom
fyi- we are not accepting Amex if that was your payment choice.
Good news- 12mm hexes!
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/exotek-...m-wing-mounts/
Hi Sir,
We have been receiving orders all morning as normal. Sorry if your account is causing problems, please email and I will work it out. performance@ exotekracingdotcom
fyi- we are not accepting Amex if that was your payment choice.
Good news- 12mm hexes!
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/exotek-...m-wing-mounts/
We have been receiving orders all morning as normal. Sorry if your account is causing problems, please email and I will work it out. performance@ exotekracingdotcom
fyi- we are not accepting Amex if that was your payment choice.
Good news- 12mm hexes!
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/exotek-...m-wing-mounts/
No Amex just Pay pal and debit .
Thanks for the respond il try to email you guys.
I just seen the 12mm hexs for this buggy thanks for making them !