65LikesTC3 Forum
03-17-2004, 09:31 AM
#8116
Originally posted by OB42TC3
The brokomo bladders work great (not the whole retrofit kit, bladders only). I used the high traction ones and it increased the damping force so I had to step down in shock oil weight 10-20. So a little adjustment but well worth the lack of hassle for perfect shocks.
The brokomo bladders work great (not the whole retrofit kit, bladders only). I used the high traction ones and it increased the damping force so I had to step down in shock oil weight 10-20. So a little adjustment but well worth the lack of hassle for perfect shocks.
03-17-2004, 10:08 AM
#8117
Tech Apprentice
Thanks guys! That is very helpful. And your picture actually really cleared things up - without it I would have installed the bladders upside down!
As soon as I can get some I'm going to try it. And thanks for the warning about the potential change in damping.
As soon as I can get some I'm going to try it. And thanks for the warning about the potential change in damping.
03-17-2004, 10:54 AM
#8118
Tech Apprentice
acyrier - I've been exploring the website www.gsracing.com and horizon hobbies and GS seems to make several versions of shock bladders - there are even multiple links to ones that are 1/10th scale and blue. So my guess is that some are thicker than others, but I can't confirm this based on their website.
Since you've actually used them, acyrier, do you have any idea what the differences might be? Or perhaps you just order the same ones every time, or maybe even never had to order them more than once?
It probably doesn't matter that much, as long as I get one kind and stick to it... I was just curious.
Since you've actually used them, acyrier, do you have any idea what the differences might be? Or perhaps you just order the same ones every time, or maybe even never had to order them more than once?
It probably doesn't matter that much, as long as I get one kind and stick to it... I was just curious.
03-17-2004, 11:00 AM
#8119
Bladders.
I think just colors. I find it wierd that they have different colors since they are installed on the inside of the shock body and can-not be seen. I've actually never thought about them being different thicknesses. Note that there are also bladders for 1/8th scale. Make sure you pick-out the correct ones. I have lt.blue ones in my truck t4, and pinkish ones in my TC3. It's just what my hobbyshop had in at the time. When I installed the newones, (recently in my T4) I didn't look to see if they were the same as my tc3. I can look tonight if I get the chance.
Since your in chicago, you might be interested in our club race at Notre Dame. Check out www.lapazraceway.com for details if your interested.
Since your in chicago, you might be interested in our club race at Notre Dame. Check out www.lapazraceway.com for details if your interested.
03-17-2004, 11:07 AM
#8120
Tech Apprentice
You don't have to check if it means opening up your shocks! ;-) I was just curious. But I did see at least two different part numbers for 1/10th scale bladders in Blue - maybe they were just different shades of blue! ..ha, ha!
What some people do for fashion!
I was looking at the shock caps that are sold at Speedtechrc.com and I don't see any bleed screws in the picture - does anyone know if they actually have bleed screws?
What some people do for fashion!
I was looking at the shock caps that are sold at Speedtechrc.com and I don't see any bleed screws in the picture - does anyone know if they actually have bleed screws?
03-17-2004, 11:11 AM
#8121
Actually,
since the kit comes w/(5) bladders, I should have 1 of each in my box. I'll try to rember and look. I have to mount and true some foam tires tonight anyway, so I'll be in the stuff anyway.
since the kit comes w/(5) bladders, I should have 1 of each in my box. I'll try to rember and look. I have to mount and true some foam tires tonight anyway, so I'll be in the stuff anyway.
03-17-2004, 05:29 PM
#8122
To make all things easy, I switched to Tamiya Shocks they are easier to fill, less messy and more predictable.
Peace and Happy Racing!
Peace and Happy Racing!
03-17-2004, 05:49 PM
#8123
hey guys..ive been reading up the last few pages. Ive got a few questions.
Should i upgrade to factory team graphite parts, or just stick with my current team version parts? $60, i dont race much but i might start this year, and i like to bash on the streets and alleys.
Ive stripped 1/3 of the slots in my diff cases, and im planning to order new ones. Should i get the warpspeed ones that have been blueprinted and special stuff in the screw holes? I looked up on the site, and $35 for diff cases?
how much longer would they last?
What is the best way to remove stripped screws, i stripped like 4 of the screws on the underside of the chassis and cant get them out.
I also have the team version shocks on my tc3, is it time to upgrade to threaded or should i just save the money and stick with my current shocks? Im just trying to somewhat plan to start racing.
As for going to the local track... what should i bring? please list everything you bring
Thanks
Should i upgrade to factory team graphite parts, or just stick with my current team version parts? $60, i dont race much but i might start this year, and i like to bash on the streets and alleys.
Ive stripped 1/3 of the slots in my diff cases, and im planning to order new ones. Should i get the warpspeed ones that have been blueprinted and special stuff in the screw holes? I looked up on the site, and $35 for diff cases?
how much longer would they last?What is the best way to remove stripped screws, i stripped like 4 of the screws on the underside of the chassis and cant get them out.
I also have the team version shocks on my tc3, is it time to upgrade to threaded or should i just save the money and stick with my current shocks? Im just trying to somewhat plan to start racing.
As for going to the local track... what should i bring? please list everything you bring
Thanks
03-17-2004, 06:26 PM
#8124
Answers...kinda
Now, keep in mind, when you ask questions like these, your going to get different opinions/perspectives/expierences.
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
hey guys..ive been reading up the last few pages. Ive got a few questions.
Should i upgrade to factory team graphite parts, or just stick with my current team version parts? $60, i dont race much but i might start this year, and i like to bash on the streets and alleys.
The difference between graphite and your stock parts is Less Flex. (graphite has less) They ARE more fragile, but they're also a little lighter. The "stock" components are a little more forgiving when crashing.
Ive stripped 1/3 of the slots in my diff cases, and im planning to order new ones. Should i get the warpspeed ones that have been blueprinted and special stuff in the screw holes? I looked up on the site, and $35 for diff cases? how much longer would they last?
I've heard of people placing Helicoils in different areas (including diff cases) to keep from stripping them out. I have been very fortunate and have NOT stripped out any holes. I do have a heli coil kit in my tool box, but it's a "just in case" thing.
What is the best way to remove stripped screws, i stripped like 4 of the screws on the underside of the chassis and cant get them out.
The easiest way I've found to remove screws is by taking a cutting wheel and a dremmel, cutting a "slot" and taking the screw out w/a normal straightblade screw dirver. The "other" alternatitive, is the dremmel also has a very SMALL drill head. Looks like what the dentist uses and drill a hole into the head, then backing it out w/"easy-outs"
I also have the team version shocks on my tc3, is it time to upgrade to threaded or should i just save the money and stick with my current shocks? Im just trying to somewhat plan to start racing.
Your team shocks will perform well if you have all the spacers to be able to adjust your ride height. When and if you start racing more seriously, that might be the time to upgrade to threaded shock bodies.
As for going to the local track... what should i bring? please list everything you bring
HOLY cow.... a list...well... geeze...I bring too much, but here's prabably a minimum:
Tools necessay to change out any and all parts on your car.
at least (2) of what you break the most.
Charger,
discharger,
Soldering Iron
Powersupply (if your charger/discharger needs one)
radio, batts car...etc. (I've forggotten my radio by mistake...oops)
lubricants
spare parts
Most people have a fishing "tackle box" that they carry a lot of their tools and spare parts. Some people go on to carry their motor lathes and such to the track. I don't, I usually do my motor work at home when I have more time to do it right.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You'll get lots more input shortly from other drivers I'm sure.
Thanks
hey guys..ive been reading up the last few pages. Ive got a few questions.
Should i upgrade to factory team graphite parts, or just stick with my current team version parts? $60, i dont race much but i might start this year, and i like to bash on the streets and alleys.
The difference between graphite and your stock parts is Less Flex. (graphite has less) They ARE more fragile, but they're also a little lighter. The "stock" components are a little more forgiving when crashing.
Ive stripped 1/3 of the slots in my diff cases, and im planning to order new ones. Should i get the warpspeed ones that have been blueprinted and special stuff in the screw holes? I looked up on the site, and $35 for diff cases?
how much longer would they last?I've heard of people placing Helicoils in different areas (including diff cases) to keep from stripping them out. I have been very fortunate and have NOT stripped out any holes. I do have a heli coil kit in my tool box, but it's a "just in case" thing.
What is the best way to remove stripped screws, i stripped like 4 of the screws on the underside of the chassis and cant get them out.
The easiest way I've found to remove screws is by taking a cutting wheel and a dremmel, cutting a "slot" and taking the screw out w/a normal straightblade screw dirver. The "other" alternatitive, is the dremmel also has a very SMALL drill head. Looks like what the dentist uses and drill a hole into the head, then backing it out w/"easy-outs"
I also have the team version shocks on my tc3, is it time to upgrade to threaded or should i just save the money and stick with my current shocks? Im just trying to somewhat plan to start racing.
Your team shocks will perform well if you have all the spacers to be able to adjust your ride height. When and if you start racing more seriously, that might be the time to upgrade to threaded shock bodies.
As for going to the local track... what should i bring? please list everything you bring
HOLY cow.... a list...well... geeze...I bring too much, but here's prabably a minimum:
Tools necessay to change out any and all parts on your car.
at least (2) of what you break the most.
Charger,
discharger,
Soldering Iron
Powersupply (if your charger/discharger needs one)
radio, batts car...etc. (I've forggotten my radio by mistake...oops)
lubricants
spare parts
Most people have a fishing "tackle box" that they carry a lot of their tools and spare parts. Some people go on to carry their motor lathes and such to the track. I don't, I usually do my motor work at home when I have more time to do it right.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You'll get lots more input shortly from other drivers I'm sure.
Thanks
03-17-2004, 06:37 PM
#8126
Tech Rookie
Getting stripped screws out
Generally the term "stripped screw" is used in refrence to having the threads stripped out so you can't tighten the parts together. This is fixed by installing a helicoil in the part to make new threads. However, for a rounded out hex in the head of a screw. I have found over the years that a lot of the time you can take your hex (allen) wrench and grind about 1/8 inch off the end with a dremel tool to get a fresh hex. Most of the time that is enough to get a screw out but replace it with a new screw before putting it back together.
As for what to take to the track, take everything you have ever used to work on your car at home then borrow the rest of the tools you find you need. Before going back to the track, get your own tool for whatever you had to borrow last time.
Good luck.
Jack
As for what to take to the track, take everything you have ever used to work on your car at home then borrow the rest of the tools you find you need. Before going back to the track, get your own tool for whatever you had to borrow last time.
Good luck.
Jack
03-18-2004, 09:30 AM
#8127
should the shocks have bladders or foam things in the caps? i had the RTR shocks and upgraded to threaded body but there are none. is this going to help preformance and should i get them? Thanx.
03-18-2004, 09:31 AM
#8128
sorry didnt read above...
please delete me above post. sorry
03-18-2004, 11:49 PM
#8129
Tech Regular
Ride Height
Hello,
After looking over several setup sheets for the TC3, I've noticed that standard ride height seems to be 4.5 to 5 mm in the front. Unfortunately, I cant seem to get my car this low. Even with the spring retaining ring screwed all the way to the top of the shock body, by my measurements (fromt he ground to the bottom of the chassis using a .200" indexing block) the car is still above 5 mm in front.
My batteries are in the forward position and I have an additional BRB extra wide bumper up front.
Any input?
After looking over several setup sheets for the TC3, I've noticed that standard ride height seems to be 4.5 to 5 mm in the front. Unfortunately, I cant seem to get my car this low. Even with the spring retaining ring screwed all the way to the top of the shock body, by my measurements (fromt he ground to the bottom of the chassis using a .200" indexing block) the car is still above 5 mm in front.
My batteries are in the forward position and I have an additional BRB extra wide bumper up front.
Any input?
03-19-2004, 12:06 PM
#8130
Make sure your shock ends are screwed all the way in.
Are you using associated springs?
Are you using associated springs?