xtrememadness

iTrader: (2)

this is the best rubber carpet setup ive run! highly reccomended and easy to drive

Lugnutz1

What do you guys think about using or not using the foam inserts in the skocks.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Well, hopefully I'll have an Mi4 very soon....however I am sure that the TC5 won't be any slower or faster. It's all in the hands of the driver and their setup knowledge, which many people lack, including myself.

With the TC5, I stick with something very similiar to one of Juhos asphalt setup. MINOR changes are necessary for me depending on conditions.

The Mi4 is just going to be fun as it looks TO ME that it will be quicker to wrench on. Ill still keep the TC5, as its so very affordable to run up top with it.

Here's my TC5 that I redid again yesterday after running it for over a year with only $20 in broken parts. Less than $100 in replaced parts due to wear. Oh wait, scratch that: add another $40 for the new chassis off of fleabay that was replaced yesterday.

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

@ Rezenclowd3 How did you do the blue line on the edge of your carbon? Pinstriped it or something? Did you glue it before or after the paint?

Best Regards

Robert Krens

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Robert, I used the CRC method of rounding and smoothing the edges, however I added a step after CAing the CF once. I took a q-tip, dipped in Electric Blue by Faskolor and rolled it around the CF. Wipe any runoff, let dry, wet sand, apply again. Then apply last layer of CA and wetsand again. Not that there is a correct way.... Next time I am going to tape off the chassis so that paint can not run onto the chassis, but just the edges. Being that the chassis can have more chamfer or less depending on aggressiveness while rounding with emry cloth sometimes the paint looks odd. This was my first time and I am going to modify my method next time.

Before applying the last bit of CA, I took a razor and scraped top/bottom of the chassis to make sure all paint was only on the rounded edge.

I honestly didn't take much time doing this chassis, it was an experiment to see if I liked it, and to see how well it will hold up. I'll do it from now on, as it stands out, and might as well represent how anal us racers can be ;-)

M.Abramowicz

iTrader: (1)

Hi rezenclowd3!

Very nice method, but main question is: it help on track for some 0.1s per lap or more?


Regards!
m.

ps: JOKE!!!! ))) very nice looking chassis

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

Moving the rear forward increases grip to the rear wheels, moving them to the rear decreases grip. With the front moving them forward decreases grip and moving them rearward to the rear increases front front grip.
Generaly speaking for road vehicles (cars/buses/etc...) a longer wheel base generally wont turn a easy or quick compared to a short wheel base.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Its good for 3.14159265 seconds per race!!

authorjim

If I posted my questions in the wrong place please let me know where else I should post them.


Thanks

Jim

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Jim, a Futaba Lo-Pro servo will be fine.
As far as Motor, look into what people at the tracks are using, and what experience level you will be joining. For example, @ my club 17.5 is Novice and 13.5 is Sportsman and Superstock. If you are parking lot racing, I would go with a closed motor to keep debris out.

Which ESC? Thats a tall debate, but the KO BMC, Tekin RS and LRP SPX are great and very versatile. Again see what people at your club are using if you are not confident finding the gearing on your own and dealing with setup.

Cooling holes? Electric TC racers rarely cut any out. Actually I am not sure if it is legal to do so at an IFMAR or ROAR event, but I have never seen anyone cut out holes for this purpose. It sounds like you will not be attending these events, but check with your clubs to see if it is allowed.

authorjim

rezenclowd3.

I now have a place to begin. I would probably have plundered into Castle or some other company. The motors you quote are sensored I believe. Is that the in thing at these races because of cogging? People don't use brushed motors do they?

Also two other questions.

What rubber tires, and what is a spool?

Jim

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Motors need to be sensored to run in ROAR events (but I don't believe they have to be driven by sensored mode, ie the Tekin RS settings). That rule has sprinkled down to many clubs as it should. Its not just cogging anymore, its now about needing sensored (supposedly) to get the advanced timing that the new generation of speed controls can achieve. Some still use brushed motors I am sure, but the trend for the past 2 yrs+ has been moving toward brushless. More sticker shock, less dirty work in the end.

A spool is essentially a locked differential. Actually thats not the way to explain it. Without a differential, its nothing like a differential LOL. Its a straight axle. It helps in low-bite conditions like asphalt, gives very consistent braking, less turn in, but more on power steering exiting a corner.

Rubber tires? Depends on the track you are at. Talk to the locals there.

Lugnutz1

anybody?

mr crum

iTrader: (5)

i dont use them

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

They do not need to be sensored, Castle motors were ROAR approved for mod this year.