Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Adrian M: thanks for the reply. I'm interested to see what you discover on Monday. If its not a running change, and was a mistake, can I trade these Yellows back to Schumacher for some blues!

For now at least, I'll have to go with either Red front/Blue rear -or- Blue front/Grey rear.

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

I just got my 2nd carbon mission, and sure enough it has yellow springs, But I actually don't really care. Now I won't have 6 sets of Blues.....LOL

Well I'm off to my first carpet race...ever!!!! Hope all goes well, at least I know it won't be the car!!!!LOL

jonski

iTrader: (380)

Does anyone have an Axis 2 manual on disc that they could email me. I bought my car used and it didn't have one.

Thanks,
Jon

[email protected]

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Well I guess its not a mistake then. Seems kinda odd to include all yellows when the hot set up seems to be all blues or blues and greys.

O'well, I got the car switched over to blue fronts/grey rears and moved the shocks into the no.2 hole on the towers.

So I should be ready for my first practice run........hopefully sometime soon.

jonnieknight

I Have recently started to race my R/C car and I am having trouble get the camber and toe right aswell as that the car doesn't go in a straight line, doesn't brake and the wheels woble at low speeds any one got any advice

jonski

iTrader: (380)

On the Axis 2....I have the one-way pulley with the o-ring. Which layshaft should I use so I could lock out the one-way? I bought it used and haven't taken the car completely apart yet. I tried to find a hole for the pin, but couldn't. Do I need a special shaft? Thanks,
Jon

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Hey guys. Just yesterday while looking at my Mission, I noticed that when I lined up my pinion perfectly with the spur gear, the pinion actually made contact with the battery bar on my pack. I had to move my pinion in slightly on the motor shaft to make sure it had clearance. Has anyone else noticed this on their car. I'm using Deans battery bars. Their not the flatest around, but they don't stick out really far either. Its no big deal, I just thought it was kind of wierd.

MIKA

Guys: I'm about to order the carbon Mission. Shall I order some spare parts as well? i.e., front/rear belt, front arms, U. joints..... How durable is the car actually?? What color springs shall I order as well?

Ian S

Darkseid- i had the same problem with the deans battery bars, i just had to move the pinion on the shaft a little, i havnt had the problem with the orion bars though, i think because they are smaller.

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Jonnieknight: First you will need a camber gauge (if you don't already have one). Any will do, but the Schumacher one takes up the least amount of room and is very simple to use (the side with one hole is 1 degree, two holes=2 degrees). Put the car on a flat surface and adjust with an allen wrench in the hole of the upper link. Set at 1 to 1.5 degrees. As for the rear toe, take off the rear body mount and stand the car up on its tail. Set the rear toe to 2 to 3 degrees (2 is usual setting, 3 degrees will give more rear traction). Make sure that both sides are equal or the car will not track straight and act tweeked (car will spin out when turning in one direction and push when turning in the other).

As for not braking, what are brakes? (lol) That will be a speed control issue. Reset the speed control according to the instructions. If that doesn't take care of it, have someone (at the local hobby shop or an experienced racer) check it out to make sure the ESC is working properly. As for wobbling tires...as long as the tires are glued on straight, I can't think of anything that would cause them to wobble. Hope that helps some...

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Darkseid: The clearence between the pinion and the battery bar is very tight and something that should be watched so that they don't come in contact with each other. Just to be safe, I usually mount my pinion so that it is as far back as possible but still making full contact with the gear. I also use thinner, flatter battery bars on the first two cells.

Mika: The car is extremely durable, but you may want some spares if only for piece of mind. I reccomend a set of front and rear arms (upper and lower), a pair of hubs, and a pair of driveshafts. Also, get two sets of the competition spring sets (each set has one pair of every spring you will need). You may not use some of the parts, but it's better to have them than to wait for UPS to deliever them if you do.

Doggs_03

MIKA:I have a barely used C/F mission pro 4sale lots of hop-ups e-mail me at [email protected]

Ian S

Mika- id also recommend a spare bumper mount (U2457) as they can be quite easy to brake if you hit things as hard as i do lol

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Racer_X: That was something I was considering, just using a thinner bar for that first set of cells. That way I can have the pinion fully engaged with the spur. O'well, I have to go dig around in my box to see if I have a thinner bar. Otherwise, it will have to wait until I take a trip to the LHS.

King-G

you wont have any issues with orion battery bars...

mine clear the pinion by a fair margin when teh mesh is set dead centre..

not sure on H.V's though, as I use S.M.H

how was everyones weekend>,,?..

we had a mixed day, with my team mate flying and finishing equal 1st..(relegated to 2nd on qualifying result)

I had tire issues all day, with a weird problem with my brand new takeoff tires coming unglued in 4 of 5 runs...finishing 5th overall! doh...

It was bizzare but all I could put it down to was the flash medium tire ca doesnt bond with the takeoff tires....by the time I had unstuck and reglued the tired outer edges a few times, they looked horrible...problem was solved wen I finally got my hands on a different glue...

the car was good when theses issues weren't happening..