macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

first thing i would get are some race worthy tires. yes, the stock jammin rippers are fine for practice and bashing, but they are so hard and don't stick at all unless the track is really tacky. run a softer compound race tire, check out what everybody else is running at your track and do the same. then i would look at getting a rechargeable receiver battery pack (i have forgotten if the RTR comes with one or not). after that maybe some better servos depending on your budget. the stock engine is fine for the beginning racer, and it should last a while as well. other than that, stock up on some diff and shock oils and play around a bit with them. only upgrade chassis parts when they break, i.e. steering knuckles. they are cast aluminum with the RTR, and are known to break since they're so brittle. don't go out and spend a fortune specing your RTR to FTE standards unless you absolutely need to.

jchas26

If they are brittle, perhaps I should change them out now before I run into trouble later? Thanks for the advise on the tires, I will check into that. As for servos. Would I be OK with something simple like a FUTS3003 on the throttle? What is a good high torque servo? When I upgrade these parts I want to do it right the first time. One that was suggested was the hitech 5645mg. I dont have any problems w/ Hitec when I flew my planes is this a goot choice? Are there any other parts that may be weak points that can take care of before they go south?

rregl0612

iTrader: (33)

Minimum servo speed...

throttle 90oz .15 seconds.
steering.. 125 at .15 seconds... THAts as low as I would go!.. should leave you some budget room..

macnkitty2002

iTrader: (7)

well, it all depends on what kind of conditions you run your buggy in and how hard you drive it. i have used cast aluminum knuckles on my Kyosho 777 forever and on my truggy, and they still have not broken. but i have seen other people break them in no time, but that's because they couldn't stay off the pipes. not to brag or anything, but i can manage to stay off the pipes and land on all fours, so i rarely break stuff.
the Futaba S3003 is a standard servo, very weak and slow. you want a metal gear servo that has the above MINIMUM specs. i love Hitec servos, they last a long time, they have an extensive line of products, and their parts support is second to none. I run a Hitec 5945MG for steering and a 5645MG for throttle/brake duties. a rechargeable Rx pack really boosts servo performance so make sure you have one. and you're right, buy the best equipment from the get-go so you don't have to replace them down the road. buy the best servos your budget will afford, get some race worthy tires and you should be set. if you really feel the need to get something for your chassis to upgrade it, look into getting some aluminum chassis braces. they significantly stiffen the chassis and allow the chassis to stay perfectly true and flat when your surface is really hooked up. go back to the plastic ones when you run into some slippery conditions.

Panther

iTrader: (8)

I've seen alot of the CRT RTR trucks break those C-hubs ALOT. They are pretty pricey for a new set, but if you have the funds I'd recommend that you change them. Like I've said several times, the JR 8800T & 8800S are great servos for around $100 each. Not to mention they carry their three year warranty. If you go Hitec, go with their higher end digitals. The lower tier stuff isn't worth messing with.

Just like the other guys said. Get some good race tires, shock oil, differential oil, shock rebuild kit and some front and rear shock shafts. You also might want to get a set of arms. The other parts are optional. I haven't broken a single part on my car.

If your track is really bumpy, your current set of chassis braces will be fine. They are more consistant in the bumpy stuff. The aluminum braces are great for smooth-moderately surfaced tracks.

Also, go to www.jamminproducts.com for setups. I highly recommend Chad Bradley's Version 2 setup. It's very neutral and makes the car VERY easy to drive.

jchas26

What about the torsion Differentials they offer? Are those a good performance upgrade as well?

Panther

iTrader: (8)

Don't waste your money on them. From what I understand they are more geared toward European style tracks.

pwnzor

iTrader: (66)

yo Brian(frost99999) when the FTE car comes bro, throw some Ace 1313's in that biatch, you wont be unhappy with their price/performance............Thats exactly what Richard Saxton runs in his rc8............Im getting ready to order 2 new ones for my rc8 when it is released
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5994

Timmahh

iTrader: (16)

DAYYYYYUMM. this is a LONG ASS thread to read cover to cover! but i finally finished it. Great info in here. If any of you ever need help with a HPI Baja 5B lmk, im your huckleberry!

so i take it the KingsHead Rear shock tower is the one with the 3 upper a arm mounting points? looks like a 7th, 8th & 9th mounting hole is added?
any other plus to going this route over doing the 7th hole mod?


appears 7f,5c,3r 7f, 5c,2r is the way to go diff wise for longer lanes with more sharp 180 corner and 5f, 5c, and 3r is better on shorter more curvy tracks if i soaked the last 3 days of readin in correctly?

shockly speaking, 45w in front and 35 in rear. and if it is over 80*f, lighten both oils by 5w? how about hotter temps and the diff oils.
i know the viscosity of diff lubs doenst typically brake down from heat, but just wondering if any of you seen any differances with hotter/colder temps and diff fluids.

i notice i have rubbing on the front left side c hub, top front location. Is this a setup deal? or a known rub issue thats not tobe concerned with? right side appears to have a less. it doesnt appear to be causing any issues. just wondering.


So far, i have put nearly 1/2 gal Byrons Original 30% thru the Jammin .21 with the Dynamite 7 (med) turbo plug. seems to be fine. one note, just around a 1/2 of tank thru, i have a part on my make shift yard track that is a tight slow left hand turn, that has a small elevation change in and out. i have flammed out at this spot 3 times now, and only when coming out and back down the elevation change. only happens at 1/2 tank or there abouts. any ideas on what i have going on?

motor idles around 190*f and after 2 contuinueous tanks and alot of running, i have seen it maxed up to 225*f. this is at 89*F with 97% humidity. Spool up once warmed up is insainly fast, topend seems to not want to top out in 150' of straight run on short grass.

if i idle for more than 30 seconds im loading up just a bit, but can feather out of it so i may need to lean up the low, which may help with my flame out as that spot is a SLOW corner.

so for those Jammin FTE Gurus out there, is there anything else i need to look at as far as upgrades for my FTE besides the 7th hole mod, and a few spare sets of tires and springs for the shocks. i recved a good assortment of parts with my buggy, but would like to know what the must have spares are.

You all have been a Great Help, i ll be referring to this thead often.

This sat my track is having a $ race. being a nub to the 1/8th buggys, i was thinking of running, but then again when money is on the line, things can get stinky. may just go marshall and maybe run the Baja 5B in the Money Race.

Thanx for reading and sharing
Timmahh

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

The stock Jammin spur is 48t not 46t. It should have plenty of bottom end with a Vspec and OS 2050 pipe. It might be too much bottom with that combo for a lot of drivers.

I would avoid the Futaba 9351. The output gears tend to wear out and the plastic safety gear also seems to go fast. I like the 9350 better for reliability but it does not have enough torque for truggy steering or some buggies. It seems okay on the Jammin though. I would suggest the Hitec 5955 for truggy or the Jr 9000t.

Frost99999

iTrader: (4)

Thanks dude! It came today, Im giving it the once over as we speak. Looks good

pwnzor

iTrader: (66)

cool man, those parts came today, so when I get home from work Sat, I will send them to you, that way you can get that front bulkhead replaced peace Trevor

BH

iTrader: (6)

I disagree about the Futaba 9351's. I've been driving them for well over a year now with very few first gear (the plastic one) issues. The ones that I have seen fell have all been gear related. I'd personally much rather pay hobby services a few bucks to replace a gear compared to throwing dollar after dollar at Airtronics to have them replace motors. Just my couple pennies worth.

The Hitech 5955Tg is a great truggy servo. I believe Hobbico has a very similar model to the Hitech now as well.

prphze

iTrader: (11)

I agree about the futaba servos. I think there are some the best servos out there. KO's were great for electric, along with airtronics. But I had problems with both of them when put in a gas car. I dont run hitec servo's, so I can not comment on those.

Jerseyboy

Testing the GO 5port in my FTE.
Enjoy the video. Ripping up the tyres.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKB-yYyeEBk