TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
|
|||
#871
Tech Rookie
Yeh my club track is pretty loose also. Have you tried 50/50 at all. Watching Franks videos I was going to start with 30/30 also but noticed some other top Aussie stock drivers are running 50/50. They're also running the rear belt tension as loose as possible which is the D setting.
#872
Ran mine for thr first time yesterday and after a few packs, the rear diff feels to free similar to thinner oil. Front is still not as free but both had 50k in it. Is this normal?
#873
Tech Initiate
I built mine about a month ago and the front diff was not smooth at all. It felt notchy. The rear was extremely smooth. After a few battery packs, the front is starting to smooth out. It's about 95% free compared to the rear.
#874
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I Made all of these changes but I left the diffs at 30k and didn't change the camber block. I also stood the rear shocks up 1 position. Its a million times better! It's a little loose off power but there is plenty of steering. I'm a couple of changes away from being dialed.
Last edited by QDRHRSE; 11-24-2016 at 10:32 PM.
#876
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I have at least a couple of these cars. One is out of the box stock. After a couple of months I have yet to break anything. Unless you're a crazed lunatic you don't need much. I have been a TLR hater for a long while but they partially won me back over with this car. Its fantastic. It might not be quite the tank that the D413 is but its the most stable RC car that I've ever owned and the out of the box set up is good enough to win races on medium to high grip track. From what I've heard you'll want to buy a spare front pivot. That's about it. I'm not that fast but consistent, slow and steady. Its a perfect car for me. Parts are also very reasonably priced.
#877
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
Other then that this car really does not need much.
I prefer alum clamping hexes but that is a preference. There is nothing wrong with the plastic ones other than they can come off with the wheels on occasions.
TLR race kits come pretty complete.
#879
Does someone know how much oil you put in diffs with a scale?
#881
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
I would recommend alum servo arms.
Other then that this car really does not need much.
I prefer alum clamping hexes but that is a preference. There is nothing wrong with the plastic ones other than they can come off with the wheels on occasions.
TLR race kits come pretty complete.
Other then that this car really does not need much.
I prefer alum clamping hexes but that is a preference. There is nothing wrong with the plastic ones other than they can come off with the wheels on occasions.
TLR race kits come pretty complete.
#882
So while my wife was cooking I was cutting. 5 screws to change the spur and can change the pinion with the motor in the car. I am going to add a brace up front as I can flex the front end a few mm by hand. Not worried about exposing the belt much since I only run on clay and the body covers it all anyway.
#883
It's custom made on my friends CNC + manual work.
I made it for original TLR 22-4 1.0. It's 15g heavier. At some point I put back on original plastic version, broke several of those, then put back this one despite the weight and since then have broken several sets of front arms but pivot is holding up nicely
I can share 3d model if anybody is ready to give it a try but it won't be straight forward.
#884
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
You mean something like this?
It's custom made on my friends CNC + manual work.
I made it for original TLR 22-4 1.0. It's 15g heavier. At some point I put back on original plastic version, broke several of those, then put back this one despite the weight and since then have broken several sets of front arms but pivot is holding up nicely
I can share 3d model if anybody is ready to give it a try but it won't be straight forward.
It's custom made on my friends CNC + manual work.
I made it for original TLR 22-4 1.0. It's 15g heavier. At some point I put back on original plastic version, broke several of those, then put back this one despite the weight and since then have broken several sets of front arms but pivot is holding up nicely
I can share 3d model if anybody is ready to give it a try but it won't be straight forward.
#885
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
Nice! That's a lot of work for 1 part!! In the past I've gone to a machine shop or two to ask about making custom parts like that and it costs hundreds to have a shop set up the CNC and make the first part. Its awesome that you can run the CNC yourself. That pivot, theoretically, would cost more than the whole damn car kit. I still don't understand what you guys are doing to break those pivots. Are guys playing pinball on the pipes? Seriously, you'd have to be hitting stuff really hard. Specifically, what kind of impact typically breaks them?
http://https://youtu.be/t9PSMg8teJY
Check out that quad at the back that ends in a 90 degree corner.
Consider this.... Second time driving a 4wd. So... Still learning getting used to it. This buggy is not friendly to first time 4wd drivers.
Last edited by Phillip F; 11-25-2016 at 09:28 AM.