9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
10-08-2010, 09:53 AM
#5866
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Trabuco Canyon-- in the Pines!!
Posts: 1,769
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Just picked up my "USA" Top Photon kit from WCRC and in the process of building it. Very impressed with the quality of the fit and finish!! Simple style of car--shocks seem very nice with a lot of variability to the build with different setups to the piston. The chassis is very narrow with all components close to the center line--per all the new move to the middle for touring cars. Building it for WCRC per Ron Schuur's setup--- he'll be helping me next Tuesday night get the car working.
Looking forward to sorting out a new toy.
T
Looking forward to sorting out a new toy.
T
10-09-2010, 05:09 AM
#5868
Tech Apprentice
I just assembled a photon last week, nice car to build, now I just want to lower the internal resistance of the car as it runs tightly in transmission, is there somethings you guys do too losen the transmission?
10-09-2010, 05:41 AM
#5869
Make sure that the bearing cams on your diffs are seated properly or they will cause the drivetrain to bind. The bearings in the center layshaft also need to be fully seated. Pop the belts off and make sure that each assembly spins freely. Another issue could be a set screw tightened too far into the c-hub or rear upright that will wear on the axle. If all those are good then just run the car and let it wear in naturally. My drivetrain is butter.
10-09-2010, 05:55 AM
#5870
Tech Apprentice
Make sure that the bearing cams on your diffs are seated properly or they will cause the drivetrain to bind. The bearings in the center layshaft also need to be fully seated. Pop the belts off and make sure that each assembly spins freely. Another issue could be a set screw tightened too far into the c-hub or rear upright that will wear on the axle. If all those are good then just run the car and let it wear in naturally. My drivetrain is butter.
10-09-2010, 06:01 AM
#5871
One of the belts sits a little tight new, I forget which one now, also you can get some binding on the spur shaft thing, it's got shims for the old version but comes with a new steel one (and it's a little different), so if you build it like the manual says that will bind a little, re-shim that and back off any belt which is too tight, and you should be golden.
It's just tiny little bits that cause a little grief on the Photon build, mainly shims etc and lack of them at times, mine is slop free and rolls free after early tweaks and now a few runs, built like a tank as well, hit another car at full tilt back straight last meet, my bumper is kind of trashed but could not find a single thing broken on the car, and I'm 'still' using alloy front shafts and plastic spool ends!.
It's just tiny little bits that cause a little grief on the Photon build, mainly shims etc and lack of them at times, mine is slop free and rolls free after early tweaks and now a few runs, built like a tank as well, hit another car at full tilt back straight last meet, my bumper is kind of trashed but could not find a single thing broken on the car, and I'm 'still' using alloy front shafts and plastic spool ends!.
10-09-2010, 06:35 AM
#5872
Are you using the steel outdrives or the plastic? I have noticed that if you try to overtighten the steel outdrives, it causes the spool to baloon and puts undue pressure on the bearing. Loosen them up a little and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then just make sure that they are snug enough to operate effectively but not bind the drivetrain.
10-09-2010, 06:39 AM
#5873
Tech Apprentice
Are you using the steel outdrives or the plastic? I have noticed that if you try to overtighten the steel outdrives, it causes the spool to baloon and puts undue pressure on the bearing. Loosen them up a little and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then just make sure that they are snug enough to operate effectively but not bind the drivetrain.
thanks
10-09-2010, 06:50 AM
#5874
Steel Outdrives bester
10-09-2010, 01:00 PM
#5876
We came out with an optional steel shaft which now comes standard with the kit.
TC-PDT005BK Centre Pulley Shaft (Black)
The problem with the aluminum one is that it mushrooms when the screws are tightened and the bearings won't come out.
Shoot us en a email [email protected] and we'll work something out.
Thanks,
EJ
TC-PDT005BK Centre Pulley Shaft (Black)
The problem with the aluminum one is that it mushrooms when the screws are tightened and the bearings won't come out.
Shoot us en a email [email protected] and we'll work something out.
Thanks,
EJ
How do you guys do ti to achieve ZERO or 1mm rebound on your shocks?
Why is everybody using the stiff lipo chassis instead of the standard? I'm ready to get me one just want to know the big difference.
10-09-2010, 01:35 PM
#5877
Second. The stiff chassis is standard in the kits. The "Standard" chassis is actually the moderate optional chassis. The moderate chassis definitely flexes more, but it is made from a lower grade carbon fiber and MAY hold a tweak.
10-09-2010, 04:12 PM
#5878
First question. I drilled a hole in the shock cap to let the pressure out between the bladder and cap. (Thanks Larry Fairtrace)
Second. The stiff chassis is standard in the kits. The "Standard" chassis is actually the moderate optional chassis. The moderate chassis definitely flexes more, but it is made from a lower grade carbon fiber and MAY hold a tweak.
Second. The stiff chassis is standard in the kits. The "Standard" chassis is actually the moderate optional chassis. The moderate chassis definitely flexes more, but it is made from a lower grade carbon fiber and MAY hold a tweak.
