Spec-R R1
12-27-2015, 04:50 PM
#3841
Tech Regular
I'm running 48p. I worry about running 64p on an outdoor track that can get pretty dirty/gritty.
12-30-2015, 07:47 AM
#3842
R2 & S2 back in stock at RC Mart :-
http://www.rcmart.com/spec-sprr2tc-e...cPath=420_1581
Is there going to be a new car ?
http://www.rcmart.com/spec-sprr2tc-e...cPath=420_1581
Is there going to be a new car ?
12-31-2015, 01:43 PM
#3843
Tech Initiate
R2 & S2 back in stock at RC Mart :-
http://www.rcmart.com/spec-sprr2tc-e...cPath=420_1581
Is there going to be a new car ?
http://www.rcmart.com/spec-sprr2tc-e...cPath=420_1581
Is there going to be a new car ?
01-05-2016, 11:57 PM
#3844
a little dead around here so i thought id do the project i originally wanted before i got an r2 ha.
blake is loaning me his s2 to run at wcics5 for a second tc, but it was so heavy... and flexy.. so i made a 2mm aluminum chassis for it. stiffer but not super stiff and much lighter than fiberglass.
I had thought to make new alumium upper peices to replace all the fiberglass, but time ran out. so ill just get the ID cf parts sometime.
s2 has its advantages. the plastic parts are actually lighter than the aluminum ones in the r1 and all the parts that people complain about breaking are the same as the r1/2 so durability isn't really a concern in comparison.
I dont really have interest in marketing something like this, unless like 100 people wanted it. i cut it on a stratos pro cnc router and it was a bit of a challenge, but i imagine with a proper coolant mist and proper high speed cutters for aluminum, would be no problem making more.
all cleaned up with a dremel. incorrect tools makes for not nice edges. fixed.
blake is loaning me his s2 to run at wcics5 for a second tc, but it was so heavy... and flexy.. so i made a 2mm aluminum chassis for it. stiffer but not super stiff and much lighter than fiberglass.
I had thought to make new alumium upper peices to replace all the fiberglass, but time ran out. so ill just get the ID cf parts sometime.
s2 has its advantages. the plastic parts are actually lighter than the aluminum ones in the r1 and all the parts that people complain about breaking are the same as the r1/2 so durability isn't really a concern in comparison.
I dont really have interest in marketing something like this, unless like 100 people wanted it. i cut it on a stratos pro cnc router and it was a bit of a challenge, but i imagine with a proper coolant mist and proper high speed cutters for aluminum, would be no problem making more.
all cleaned up with a dremel. incorrect tools makes for not nice edges. fixed.
01-06-2016, 06:57 AM
#3845
[QUOTE=valk;14336205]a little dead around here so i thought id do the project i originally wanted before i got an r2 ha.
blake is loaning me his s2 to run at wcics5 for a second tc, but it was so heavy... and flexy.. so i made a 2mm aluminum chassis for it. stiffer but not super stiff and much lighter than fiberglass.
I had thought to make new alumium upper peices to replace all the fiberglass, but time ran out. so ill just get the ID cf parts sometime.
s2 has its advantages. the plastic parts are actually lighter than the aluminum ones in the r1 and all the parts that people complain about breaking are the same as the r1/2 so durability isn't really a concern in comparison.
I dont really have interest in marketing something like this, unless like 100 people wanted it. i cut it on a stratos pro cnc router and it was a bit of a challenge, but i imagine with a proper coolant mist and proper high speed cutters for aluminum, would be no problem making more.
all cleaned up with a dremel. incorrect tools makes for not nice edges. fixed.
QUOTE]
What you use for endmill and to countersink it? What aluminum is that? 6061/6062/7075
Came out good - curious to see how it works for ya.
blake is loaning me his s2 to run at wcics5 for a second tc, but it was so heavy... and flexy.. so i made a 2mm aluminum chassis for it. stiffer but not super stiff and much lighter than fiberglass.
I had thought to make new alumium upper peices to replace all the fiberglass, but time ran out. so ill just get the ID cf parts sometime.
s2 has its advantages. the plastic parts are actually lighter than the aluminum ones in the r1 and all the parts that people complain about breaking are the same as the r1/2 so durability isn't really a concern in comparison.
I dont really have interest in marketing something like this, unless like 100 people wanted it. i cut it on a stratos pro cnc router and it was a bit of a challenge, but i imagine with a proper coolant mist and proper high speed cutters for aluminum, would be no problem making more.
all cleaned up with a dremel. incorrect tools makes for not nice edges. fixed.
QUOTE]
What you use for endmill and to countersink it? What aluminum is that? 6061/6062/7075
Came out good - curious to see how it works for ya.
01-06-2016, 08:15 AM
#3846
It's some 6061 from a lian li case I wasnt gonna use again.
Used a 0.25" 2 flute upcut carbide tool commonly used to dado cutting Mdf at 20000 rpm.
Getting the rates right was a challenge. Killed on tool cutting too slow. Did a little more research and just ended up cutting 20k/100ipm 5 passes.
Next time I'll need a more appropriate tool and a mist coolant supply. Just this with airblast.
Counter sinks were a 2.5" 45* bevel tool with two blades. That went much better as I just made it a drill operation following a 1/8 cutter.
Trying to do it with wood tools not ideal but it's a 6x12ft industrial router. Certainly has the grunt to cut the stuff.
Chassis is 1.8 mm. Pretty flexible but much lighter than fibreglass. Prob much closer to minimum weight. Was 1450 before ha.
Used a 0.25" 2 flute upcut carbide tool commonly used to dado cutting Mdf at 20000 rpm.
Getting the rates right was a challenge. Killed on tool cutting too slow. Did a little more research and just ended up cutting 20k/100ipm 5 passes.
Next time I'll need a more appropriate tool and a mist coolant supply. Just this with airblast.
Counter sinks were a 2.5" 45* bevel tool with two blades. That went much better as I just made it a drill operation following a 1/8 cutter.
Trying to do it with wood tools not ideal but it's a 6x12ft industrial router. Certainly has the grunt to cut the stuff.
Chassis is 1.8 mm. Pretty flexible but much lighter than fibreglass. Prob much closer to minimum weight. Was 1450 before ha.
01-06-2016, 10:33 AM
#3847
Dang that's a good size machine to have handy.
Don't know if this will help but I use this at times to find feeds and speeds for different things.
http://zero-divide.net/index.php?page=fswizard
And brush this on for small work
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/62001284
Nice job though with what ya had ...... even the oops countersink hole
Thinking of revising my R1 and fumbling between either cutting a new cf chassis or trying an aluminum one. Havent driven the car in over a year and its always been such an easy car for me.
Don't know if this will help but I use this at times to find feeds and speeds for different things.
http://zero-divide.net/index.php?page=fswizard
And brush this on for small work
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/62001284
Nice job though with what ya had ...... even the oops countersink hole
Thinking of revising my R1 and fumbling between either cutting a new cf chassis or trying an aluminum one. Havent driven the car in over a year and its always been such an easy car for me.
01-06-2016, 10:53 AM
#3848
I'm Getting the holes was a bit of a challenge. Finding them I had to put an s2 basis in an offset zero jig made of Mdf set in 6". Then I moved the machine to each hole and stuck a 5/64 drill upside down in, walked to the machine and write the absolute values down heh.
Came out accurate to 1/10 mm anything I the same axis was accurate when all I had to change was the alt axis etc.
Figuring out how to do it all in alphacam with a solid works model was tricky. Ended up using the machine holes function and just having the big ass 45 bit come down as a drill.
Holes are a little big as the smallest tool I had was 1/8 but I guess with the machine holes function I could have stuck a drill bit in just as easily. Holes weren't a problem in the end, cutter choice was. I prob could have cleaned the outside edge better by chamfering it but that would have wore the $100 45 tool out lol.
For a first time not bad result. I know now it's possible on a stratos pro, it's just a matter of having the right end mill and getting the mister setup. I didn't rig one up as I didn't want to contaminate the vacuum table and spoil board for future wood cuts that I have to finish lol. Oil makes finishing not fun on wood.
So. I'll investigate tooling. But expect more Shyte from me. Spec r platform makes making mod custom cars easy and very cheap. There is no way I could make any of the metal parts for less money. So I'll start with spec r suspension and transmission bulkheads, and move the stuff around.
Came out accurate to 1/10 mm anything I the same axis was accurate when all I had to change was the alt axis etc.
Figuring out how to do it all in alphacam with a solid works model was tricky. Ended up using the machine holes function and just having the big ass 45 bit come down as a drill.
Holes are a little big as the smallest tool I had was 1/8 but I guess with the machine holes function I could have stuck a drill bit in just as easily. Holes weren't a problem in the end, cutter choice was. I prob could have cleaned the outside edge better by chamfering it but that would have wore the $100 45 tool out lol.
For a first time not bad result. I know now it's possible on a stratos pro, it's just a matter of having the right end mill and getting the mister setup. I didn't rig one up as I didn't want to contaminate the vacuum table and spoil board for future wood cuts that I have to finish lol. Oil makes finishing not fun on wood.
So. I'll investigate tooling. But expect more Shyte from me. Spec r platform makes making mod custom cars easy and very cheap. There is no way I could make any of the metal parts for less money. So I'll start with spec r suspension and transmission bulkheads, and move the stuff around.
01-06-2016, 11:01 AM
#3850
01-06-2016, 06:14 PM
#3852
Is anyone interested in a lightly used S1 with spare parts? 17.5T only. Three-five runs in my culdesac.
03-27-2016, 08:49 AM
#3854
I'm getting a little bummed that I ended up with some of the spec r cars. I now have an r1, r2 and s2. I can't say I'm unhappy with the quality or parts or even availability for the most part but didn't appear that there's much interest in them since this thread is pretty much dead. I can't imagine that they will introduce a new car without much of a following in their previous cars from what I can see. I like having an unusual car but for someone that isn't really into tuning or have a whole lot of time to get to the track to race or even practice there's no help in that department from any of the locals for setup advice. I'll just have to check setups I can find online. With the lack of posts here, I can hardly hope for a whole lot of future input here as well
Last edited by tudor39; 03-27-2016 at 08:51 AM. Reason: Typos
03-27-2016, 08:59 AM
#3855
I'm getting a little bummed that I ended up with some of the spec r cars. I now have an r1, r2 and s2. I can't say I'm unhappy with the quality or parts or even availability for the most part but didn't appear that there's much interest in them since this thread is pretty much dead. I can't imagine that they will introduce a new car without much of a following in their previous cars from what I can see. I like having an unusual car but for someone that isn't really into tuning or have a whole lot of time to get to the track to race or even practice there's no help in that department from any of the locals for setup advice. I'll just have to check setups I can find online. With the lack of posts here, I can hardly hope for a whole lot of future input here as well