murky123

is there a good conversion chart for the losi BB springs / durango BB springs ?

hopsing

iTrader: (13)

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf

FrEaKiShTuNER

iTrader: (200)

Very nice!! Thanks for that link....

murky123

yep, thank you.
gonna try some losi rear pink springs instead of the durango light blue.
I need some stiffer springs for my RM3 setup
I feel the light blue springs are ok, but a little bit on the soft side for a RM config

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

oh shoot.. you're right.. sorry, I read that wrong! The top is easy... simply make sure the inside rim of the cap is sanded smooth, make sure you put shock oil on the o-ring itself... and it should be fine. If it catches, simply back the cap off till it lets go of the ring, and then try again.. after a couple of snags it will cinch up just fine. After a rebuild or two, it will just stop all on it's own.

kerby

iTrader: (25)

I'm currently running the Losi white rear spring which is rated slightly softer @ 1.80...compared to the TD light blue. I've been running this car for 3-4 weeks and tried every oil, piston and spring I could get my hands on. 4 hole 1.2 pistons on all 4 corners....f/25wt r/20wt losi oil......Orange losi fronts and white rear springs worked the best in my opinion....ride height f/23mm r/22mm

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

What kind of surface?

For me on med. bite clay/dirt mix, 17.5 blinky I had really good laps on these:
-Losi Silver front
-1.3 4 hole
-30w
-Stock rear springs
-1.2 4 hole
-20w

Track is medium bumpy and not very technical.

kerby

iTrader: (25)

Blinky 17.5. Our rear shock setup is almost exact. Clay med to high bit. Fairly flat with no huge features

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

I'm going to be trying the same pistons, but tapered this weekend. I really don't want to change the buggy setup at all, but I think the tapered pistons should help settle the buggy in the bumpy sections.

murky123

Im gonna try this !!
doesnt really matter if you run 17,5 blinky or a 8.5 turn regarding springs and oil right?

your description of your track sounds a lot like mine.
I do not have huge jumps, not to technical but can be quite high speed.
low/med clay/dirt out doors

spiro

Goodie! I'm gonna take a look at the inside edge later on, and sand them down a bit. I still think it could be a good idea to "cone" it in as well with a dremel, to force the o-ring inwards while tightening. I'll try this as soon as Durango gets the caps back in stock. Like this other guys said here as well - it might also be a good idea with a tighter smaller o-ring. If I remember the AE ones right, they have to be streched quite a bit to fit them over the shock body edge.

adam lancia

iTrader: (2)

You remember correctly plus the Associated caps are beveled as well

spiro

Aha! I rest my case...
Uhm. Actually, I won't - I'll follow my case up with a Dremel.

Fatal1ty

My DEX210 comes tomorrow!
I think I will go straight to the 4 hole pistons, and will close the other 2 holes with the solder-station and some plastic of the plastic-trees.
25 rear, and 30 front losi shock oil will be my start setup.
Everything else will I leave stock.

I'm really looking forward to it, new manufacturer, after leaving yokomo after 2 1/2 years.

What are the other important steps to watch, than diff and shock cap?
I will use the 23 pinion, with 87, using a 8.5T X12 octa motor.

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Actually stock/mod does make a difference. The faster speeds of mod class increase the shaft speed considerably and can make the rear end pack up harder than stock. My buggy feels great with 4 hole pistons but Cush's buggy is bouncy off of fast jump landings. We keep trying different 4 hole combinations on his and keep reverting back to 6 holes. Next up is a set of blanks drilled to 5 hole 1.2 and another set at 5 hole 1.3. His car drives very well but needs more pack, but 4 holes have been too much pack for his car and our track.