Losi 8ight building and setup
02-18-2007, 10:49 PM
#1981
Originally Posted by JWRockman
I have a couple of questions about building the shocks.
1. How tight should the pistion fit inside the shock body. The piston seems to be tight against the inside wall of the shock body. Should I smooth down the piston more to make it looser?
2. When threading on the bottom shock caps where the rubber seals are will hand tight be enough? I tried to use pliers while covering the cap before putting the pliers on and it scratched the cap. Is there another way? I did put on some blue locktite on the threads.
Thanks.
Rockman
1. How tight should the pistion fit inside the shock body. The piston seems to be tight against the inside wall of the shock body. Should I smooth down the piston more to make it looser?
2. When threading on the bottom shock caps where the rubber seals are will hand tight be enough? I tried to use pliers while covering the cap before putting the pliers on and it scratched the cap. Is there another way? I did put on some blue locktite on the threads.
Thanks.
Rockman
02-18-2007, 11:03 PM
#1982
Hey guys I am looking for a new motor for my 8ight and my limit is $200.00 dollars and I was wondering if this is a good motor and if anybody can tell me if it is worth buying. Now I know it is a Italian made motor so I know it will be good.
02-19-2007, 04:47 AM
#1983
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
hand tighten is all that needed bud. Haven't had one back off yet in 3 gallons of fuel
And instead of grabbing the caps with a pair of pliers, just run a small screwdriver or allen driver through the shock mount eyelet on the top of the cap to turn it. Losi put a hex shape at the bottom of the shock body, so you can grab there with a wrench while doing this.
02-19-2007, 04:53 AM
#1984
Tech Adept
losi8ight
i ran that engine last summer, i loved it. lots of torque. i ran an 053 on it and o99 plugs. if you are running on a big track it will run out of leg on the straight a little but as long as its not a 170' straight you will be fine. i am going to order another one for this summer.
1 thing thats i was told by jim hott. from fusion, take the "brass boost port plug" out of the block and jb weld it in so that you dont have it come out on you. thats how i lost my bf, lost the brass plug and sucked in dirt.
i ran that engine last summer, i loved it. lots of torque. i ran an 053 on it and o99 plugs. if you are running on a big track it will run out of leg on the straight a little but as long as its not a 170' straight you will be fine. i am going to order another one for this summer.
1 thing thats i was told by jim hott. from fusion, take the "brass boost port plug" out of the block and jb weld it in so that you dont have it come out on you. thats how i lost my bf, lost the brass plug and sucked in dirt.
02-19-2007, 06:21 AM
#1985
How tight should the piston be against the inner shock body wall?
My pistons seem to be very tight against the inside wall of the shock body. Is this normal? Should I sand them some? I suppose it will be smoother over time.
02-19-2007, 08:47 AM
#1986
And instead of grabbing the caps with a pair of pliers, just run a small screwdriver or allen driver through the shock mount eyelet on the top of the cap to turn it. Losi put a hex shape at the bottom of the shock body, so you can grab there with a wrench while doing this.
02-19-2007, 09:20 AM
#1987
SILICONE?
HELLO ALL, I HAVE A RTR AND I NOTICED I HAVE GREASE IN THE DIFF, SHOULD I PUT SILICONE? AND IF SO WHICH WEIGHT IN WHICH ONES?
02-19-2007, 09:21 AM
#1988
Originally Posted by R40Victim
The kit comes with two shock tools, one for the top as well so you don't have to scratch the shock cap. Its the other tool with the slot in it. Stick the shock mount in the slot and turn...no plyers needed.
02-19-2007, 09:22 AM
#1989
Originally Posted by JWRockman
My pistons seem to be very tight against the inside wall of the shock body. Is this normal? Should I sand them some? I suppose it will be smoother over time.
02-19-2007, 09:42 AM
#1990
The .21 BF is a great motor and mine really woke up when I changed from a dynamite to JP-2 pipe.
02-19-2007, 10:00 AM
#1991
HELLO ALL, I HAVE A RTR AND I NOTICED I HAVE GREASE IN THE DIFF, SHOULD I PUT SILICONE? AND IF SO WHICH WEIGHT IN WHICH ONES?
02-19-2007, 10:09 AM
#1992
Originally Posted by R40Victim
Try the kit's diff lubes first, it's a good starting point. Also, make sure you stick to one brand of diff oil, so the comparitve viscocity is linear...translation, 1000 wt oil may be different from brand to brand(or so I'm told). Just get 5K for the front, 7k for the middle, and 2k for the rear. That'll be a good starting point.
02-19-2007, 11:46 AM
#1993
Well the cars been out since Oct and still no diff fluids. I'll believe it when I see it.
Let's get it right.. Release the car AND it's supporting products OR at least tell us which other manufactures oils are the closest match. It's really a shot in the dark on which oils to use to get out of the box matching performance which we tuned the setups around in the first place.
Let's get it right.. Release the car AND it's supporting products OR at least tell us which other manufactures oils are the closest match. It's really a shot in the dark on which oils to use to get out of the box matching performance which we tuned the setups around in the first place.
02-19-2007, 12:23 PM
#1994
Droop
J. Wright: Post # 1963 and #1965 (nice picture) on how to measure Droop. You will need a digital caliper to measure it. You are correct. 95mm in the front 106mm in the rear. Hope this helps.
02-19-2007, 12:33 PM
#1995
Mugen, Kyosho and GS are all exact C.P.S. differential and shock oil. I would reccomend running one of these so you know your oils are exact.
I ran 5-6-2 this weekend and it felt great! The car was very positive and pulled of corners very well. I'm going to try 5-5-2 this weekend.
I ran 5-6-2 this weekend and it felt great! The car was very positive and pulled of corners very well. I'm going to try 5-5-2 this weekend.