Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

just jokes man..

Seriously to drift you dont require anything more then poor tires and improper suspension. Ill handling race cars will make great drift cars.

The yok drift is simply a car with no oil in the shocks and supper slippery tires.

DOMOisCOOL

A nitro drifter will be intresting. Seeing GP's do not have that "instant" throttle control. Say goodbye to the clutch

Entropy

Have you done controlled drifts??

Best not to make sweeping statements for something you haven't tried before.

While you can simply put a car on the track and drift, it isn't going to be anymore than aimless sliding around till you set up the car for it.

Perhaps you haven't see the RC drift videos...

Either way, peace

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

yes i have seen the rc and the 1:1 drifters, its like cars dancing very kool looking and im sure takes loads of skills to do something other then donuts.

peace

Entropy

Just for those who don't know yet.. Xenon Racing has released their purple strapping tape...

http://www.xenon.ne.jp/new-2004-05.html

scroll down...

DOMOisCOOL

I don't mean to sound like a newbie, but is strapping tape better than using the battery bar?

Is it reusable and how easy is it to swap out packs?

Entropy

Its slower to change batteries. Thats about the only drawback I see.

However, it holds the battery down better, the stickyness also prevents the batteries from rocking too much, its much lighter (less batt posts, bar, screws/clips). neater if you have matching colours and well organized wires.

I've never had a battery fall out during a main before.

I've also used the xenon tape for up to 3 bashing/race days before having to install a new strip. Its the most durable tape I've come across.

Here are my cars with the tape, use you imagination Hoping to get the purple tape for myself soon, as the blue doesn't seem to go with a pro4 :P

DOMOisCOOL

Thanx for the explaination

Mossie

where can you buy the tape from. Looks cool.

Cheers,

Mossie

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

just a tip if ure gonna go with tape.

i have had the tape broken in the mains where it was cut by the tape slots in a hard crash.

round the bottom and top part of the slots with a file and reinfoce it with a small peice of tape on the part where it goes through the slots.

hope this helps

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

I think i found the part necessary to solve this diff issue....(this is assuming your using the AE diff Screw, nut and spring already)

For a few nights, i was trying to assemble my diff with the screw head and thrust bearing on one side, and the diff spring and nut on the other. The problem has been that the diff nut needed to be in a longer housing to fit into the long diff halve...

While randomly at the hobby shop, i found AE # 2330; "NTC3 ATD Diff-T Nut" which seems to be the right length to allow the diff to be built in the "Correct" manner.

The only problem? I was unable to pick up the part, and I'm unable to work on my R/C stuff for a while! Anyone wanna spend a few bucks and let us know how it works??? Here's how the diff should build:

http://download.teamassociated.com/p...rawing_tc3.pdf

Anyone else got the time and spare diff to try this out? Zombies? JDM?

My only fear is that it may interfere with the dog bone, but if it works....

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

It's just an opinion,and yes I've done "drifting" and found it to be quite boring..and not that hard to do..well not as hard as some make it out to be..

Aku-Man

I think that nut is too long, if assemble like tc3. Isn't Associated Part#6575 would be better?

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

#6575 is what I tried originally, I found the nut housing was too short to be assembled like I have in the diagram of my above post. That is why I "Think" this new part may work better.

Aku-Man

I see. BTW, do you know is this part same size as Part#73501c page 14?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXBME6&P=K