52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
09-13-2009, 08:35 PM
And as a bonus, it actually turned on for the main. 
My radio is apparently vintage as well. Faulty neutral pot.
09-13-2009, 08:55 PM
Yeah... and more than than and there was quite a fair bit of off power turn in with the spool and running pretty heavy springs on the rear of the car for the conditions. I'd rather have the rear end more stable than I need, and dial in more steering if needed. Usually about 2mm droop over ride height is normal.
09-13-2009, 10:29 PM
Had a chat with a fellow friend who is not into RC about static roll centre.. He told me that it is best to have static roll centre as close as possible to the ground, must be above ground though. If it is under ground it will have a negative effect on your suspension geometry.
After having this discussion, I checked the settings I used this past weekend and discovered that he was right.. I set the roll centre as per the attached screen shot and was impressed with my findings.
You will notice that I set ride height at 6mm (front) and 6.5mm (rear) which plays a huge roll with static roll centre. Now I see why, the JR link can be adjusted in a high/low position, as this has an affect also.
In addition, downforce created by the body we choose to use will affect static roll centre also. If you are travelling in a straight line, the ride height will generally drop from the downforce created by the body. To maintain the ride height, you need to have springs stiff enough to limit the movement (of ride height) from changing too much. Then as you enter a corner, you want weight transfer to help you steer thru it. Downforce plays a roll in the corners, but it is speed dependant. Generally, weight transfer has a larger roll, which needs to be controlled by sway bars.
If you have a track that has elevation changes, and or bumps, shock oil is your next best friend.
When it comes to vehicle dynamics, there is no "perfect" setup as tires and the body we choose to use can affect performance.
Hopefully this helps those who have been wondering about vehicle dynamics as I have thought about this for a long time and I think I solved some of my own issues..
Lastly, if you haven't already, download the roll centre calculator.. It is worth it, because it's FREE..
After having this discussion, I checked the settings I used this past weekend and discovered that he was right.. I set the roll centre as per the attached screen shot and was impressed with my findings.
You will notice that I set ride height at 6mm (front) and 6.5mm (rear) which plays a huge roll with static roll centre. Now I see why, the JR link can be adjusted in a high/low position, as this has an affect also.
In addition, downforce created by the body we choose to use will affect static roll centre also. If you are travelling in a straight line, the ride height will generally drop from the downforce created by the body. To maintain the ride height, you need to have springs stiff enough to limit the movement (of ride height) from changing too much. Then as you enter a corner, you want weight transfer to help you steer thru it. Downforce plays a roll in the corners, but it is speed dependant. Generally, weight transfer has a larger roll, which needs to be controlled by sway bars.
If you have a track that has elevation changes, and or bumps, shock oil is your next best friend.
When it comes to vehicle dynamics, there is no "perfect" setup as tires and the body we choose to use can affect performance.
Hopefully this helps those who have been wondering about vehicle dynamics as I have thought about this for a long time and I think I solved some of my own issues..
Lastly, if you haven't already, download the roll centre calculator.. It is worth it, because it's FREE..
09-14-2009, 10:15 AM
My diff outdrives are getting stripped on both side with a Flyingfox spoool set up.
can you make one look like one-way tube using one-way outdrive set? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3353
out drives are beefier screwed down, also using shorter bones with less weight.
can you make one look like one-way tube using one-way outdrive set? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3353
out drives are beefier screwed down, also using shorter bones with less weight.
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 09-14-2009 at 11:41 AM.
09-14-2009, 11:55 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
MaxRain...you have a PM
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
09-14-2009, 12:04 PM
My diff outdrives are getting stripped on both side with a Flyingfox spoool set up.
can you make one look like one-way tube using one-way outdrive set? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3353
out drives are beefier screwed down, also using shorter bones with less weight.
can you make one look like one-way tube using one-way outdrive set? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3353
out drives are beefier screwed down, also using shorter bones with less weight.
09-14-2009, 12:17 PM
when Pablo was mentioning 1pc tube I posted to ask him to make it look like the oneway tube and he came out with this diff looking tube, I though oh well maybe he gotta better idea
but after a month of running this spool I found out I was only wrong once when I though I was wrong. ahahhaha (I got that from someones signature)
another advantage of running oneway type is outdrives price, its a 1/2 price per set!
if he dont make this newer spool than I m going to drill a hole on each side to put 4/40 set screws through it.
09-14-2009, 01:14 PM
Hi guys,
Wanted some help for my JRXSR for selecting a new brushless motor.
Today i'm running the LRP X11 in 10.5 turn (class in which we have the most races over here)
and i'm looking for a replacement with a bit more power.
How would you rank these suggestions in your opinion:
1. Speed Passion Competition version 3
2. Tekin redline sensored
3. Novak Balistic
4. Fantom Ion 2
5. Trinity or Epic Duo 2
I think all of them have variable timing which is something the LRP lacks.
I have ranked them in my order of favorite according to a few hours reading on the internet.
Wanted some help for my JRXSR for selecting a new brushless motor.
Today i'm running the LRP X11 in 10.5 turn (class in which we have the most races over here)
and i'm looking for a replacement with a bit more power.
How would you rank these suggestions in your opinion:
1. Speed Passion Competition version 3
2. Tekin redline sensored
3. Novak Balistic
4. Fantom Ion 2
5. Trinity or Epic Duo 2
I think all of them have variable timing which is something the LRP lacks.
I have ranked them in my order of favorite according to a few hours reading on the internet.
09-14-2009, 01:25 PM
09-14-2009, 01:29 PM
Hi guys,
Wanted some help for my JRXSR for selecting a new brushless motor.
Today i'm running the LRP X11 in 10.5 turn (class in which we have the most races over here)
and i'm looking for a replacement with a bit more power.
How would you rank these suggestions in your opinion:
1. Speed Passion Competition version 3
2. Tekin redline sensored
3. Novak Balistic
4. Fantom Ion 2
5. Trinity or Epic Duo 2
I think all of them have variable timing which is something the LRP lacks.
I have ranked them in my order of favorite according to a few hours reading on the internet.
Wanted some help for my JRXSR for selecting a new brushless motor.
Today i'm running the LRP X11 in 10.5 turn (class in which we have the most races over here)
and i'm looking for a replacement with a bit more power.
How would you rank these suggestions in your opinion:
1. Speed Passion Competition version 3
2. Tekin redline sensored
3. Novak Balistic
4. Fantom Ion 2
5. Trinity or Epic Duo 2
I think all of them have variable timing which is something the LRP lacks.
I have ranked them in my order of favorite according to a few hours reading on the internet.
Novak Ballistics are the same performance as the original SS line, and are not quite as quick as the Duo based motors, however they have the advantage of having user replaceable winds which reduces the cost of smoking a motor.
Tekin motors are strong contenders but you will have to grind the hinge pin holder a little to get full pinion gear range out of it.
I have no experience with the speed passion v 3 i did use an older speed passion and i couldn't change the timing.
All in all i haven't found a clear performance leader in my tests, but again that is me and i've yet to test some of the newer motors from corally and some of the other manufacturers.
09-14-2009, 01:39 PM
yeah I ran 17.5 yesterday on kinda rough track with few bumps and that landing after bumps is what did this.
when Pablo was mentioning 1pc tube I posted to ask him to make it look like the oneway tube and he came out with this diff looking tube, I though oh well maybe he gotta better idea
but after a month of running this spool I found out I was only wrong once when I though I was wrong. ahahhaha (I got that from someones signature)
another advantage of running oneway type is outdrives price, its a 1/2 price per set!
if he dont make this newer spool than I m going to drill a hole on each side to put 4/40 set screws through it.
when Pablo was mentioning 1pc tube I posted to ask him to make it look like the oneway tube and he came out with this diff looking tube, I though oh well maybe he gotta better idea
but after a month of running this spool I found out I was only wrong once when I though I was wrong. ahahhaha (I got that from someones signature)
another advantage of running oneway type is outdrives price, its a 1/2 price per set!
if he dont make this newer spool than I m going to drill a hole on each side to put 4/40 set screws through it.
I think Fairtrace mentioned this earlier in the thread. I've actually been running my spool with a 4.5 and i haven't had any issues with stripping, slipping or binding yet, but I really have to tell you that i haven't hit much with the car because i'm terrified that with the 4.5 the whole car will just disintegrate.
In my 10.5 car at blue diamond i hit things pretty often and again i really havent had any issues w/ the spool setup.
I must admit that i do not have a spool in my 13.5 car yet (waiting on new stock to arrive so i can fill my back order hahaha) and yesterday getting it ready for Ashley to run in the regionals i put a 10.5 in it. I came off the track and walking back to the pits i hear a loud *snap* and i swear my speedo is dead. I mean it was loud. Dorian thought he saw something spark and i started sweating hahaha. Turns out it was the screw side hub giving up the ghost it just snapped after the race. I'll take a photo of it when i do maintenance and change it over to the FF spool when they arrive.
So i've busted up about 4 stock spools and no FF spools and actually no outdrives in either the stock or FF spools. Not sure what i'm doing different.
09-14-2009, 01:45 PM
The Duo's have generally been the gun motor in spec for a while now. The original Duo is torque based while the Duo 2 is RPM based. With a good speedy I would tend to lean to the original Duo. I believe SkyRocketBstteries will have stock of them (Fantom label) so there is your source.
09-14-2009, 03:25 PM
I tried the high setting for the F/R diff. I have been running the high F and low R. I made the change and it had a effect on a the car different than what I thought. The car reaction got more responsive and squared up faster onpower out of the corner. It was a bit more twitchy but the corner speed seemed to be a bit faster. It was a bit harder to drive smooth but if I stopped driving hard the car was faster.
What are the input for running both diffs high?
What are the input for running both diffs high?
09-14-2009, 03:50 PM
09-14-2009, 03:52 PM
Don't forget this part of the car was originally engineered to absorb the impact and take the damage away from more expensive components in the front end.
I think Fairtrace mentioned this earlier in the thread. I've actually been running my spool with a 4.5 and i haven't had any issues with stripping, slipping or binding yet, but I really have to tell you that i haven't hit much with the car because i'm terrified that with the 4.5 the whole car will just disintegrate.
In my 10.5 car at blue diamond i hit things pretty often and again i really havent had any issues w/ the spool setup.
I must admit that i do not have a spool in my 13.5 car yet (waiting on new stock to arrive so i can fill my back order hahaha) and yesterday getting it ready for Ashley to run in the regionals i put a 10.5 in it. I came off the track and walking back to the pits i hear a loud *snap* and i swear my speedo is dead. I mean it was loud. Dorian thought he saw something spark and i started sweating hahaha. Turns out it was the screw side hub giving up the ghost it just snapped after the race. I'll take a photo of it when i do maintenance and change it over to the FF spool when they arrive.
So i've busted up about 4 stock spools and no FF spools and actually no outdrives in either the stock or FF spools. Not sure what i'm doing different.
I think Fairtrace mentioned this earlier in the thread. I've actually been running my spool with a 4.5 and i haven't had any issues with stripping, slipping or binding yet, but I really have to tell you that i haven't hit much with the car because i'm terrified that with the 4.5 the whole car will just disintegrate.
In my 10.5 car at blue diamond i hit things pretty often and again i really havent had any issues w/ the spool setup.
I must admit that i do not have a spool in my 13.5 car yet (waiting on new stock to arrive so i can fill my back order hahaha) and yesterday getting it ready for Ashley to run in the regionals i put a 10.5 in it. I came off the track and walking back to the pits i hear a loud *snap* and i swear my speedo is dead. I mean it was loud. Dorian thought he saw something spark and i started sweating hahaha. Turns out it was the screw side hub giving up the ghost it just snapped after the race. I'll take a photo of it when i do maintenance and change it over to the FF spool when they arrive.
So i've busted up about 4 stock spools and no FF spools and actually no outdrives in either the stock or FF spools. Not sure what i'm doing different.
unlike PROS, I do hits a lot like rest of us and this parts was made and sold most to them most like any other parts/products
well but it's got not much to do with hitting somethng, like I mentioned when you race on rough surface if car get jumpy and landing few times in every map it can grind that part down easily, just think about it.
just pull out the out drive from your car and inspect that slots on the out drives, it's got bigger and out drives rocking back and forth inside of the tube, beilive me I'll inspect your car next time we meet to show you if you dont do it by your self
Larry mentioned this before we all know that, but think about all other cars in the past that had a 1pc solid axle on the front, why can't this car handle the stress ? the oneway is like a spool in forward motion and stock out drives for one way never had any problem, it might stripped a spur gear if you have a stock centershaft but I never heard outdrives got stripped.
anyway I know FF is good products and all but there is always room for improvement and making one like one way tube can be better version.
Add: pic of my out drives added and wanted to mentioned you may say I did something wrong installing cups in it but both of out drives have same damaged on it and I dont think I can make same exact mistakes on both out drives on same time.
when I race at Jackson (very flat surface) I was fine but 1 day on parking lot style racing killed this parts.
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 09-14-2009 at 05:06 PM.