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Old 07-11-2004, 11:15 PM
  #961  
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I don't belive that engine is fully run in (yet the auction said it had been raced ? if I remember correclty )

Take plug out and turn engine over by hand (as per instructions) there should only be small amount of resistance as piston passes TDC. If there is more then slight resistance then engine needs to be run in some more, id check conrod bushing if its not run in and was raced (mine took a LOT longer to break in)

ALSO - if you want PM me your ICQ/MSN or whatever details Im in OZ also - have a D5
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:24 PM
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ye freaked me out.. theres a good chance the engine is still good tho so fingers crossed!!! il check when i get home from work...

Thanks for the input guys!!

while i got yas... does twisting the carb position to adjust mounting position affect anything??
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:27 PM
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where do you get parts from nightmare??
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:29 PM
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hehe Maybe the guy can run engines in quicker then me But I do remember dino saying 2+LTrs required for D5 and that was true with mine. I think his picked up a great deal, the guy selling it possibly raced a engine that was still tight hence not performing and decided to sell it

Just complete break in and change the conrod and hes got himself a rocket woohoooo

Originally posted by Data
au_nightmare giving you nightmare huh ?
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:32 PM
  #965  
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hey i bargained him to $200aud and he chucked in a brand new exhaust header so if its good its all good!
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:36 PM
  #966  
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If you continue to rev the crap out of it and its not fully broken in you may see a snapped crank pin.... so as per previous message just check the pinch with plug out and complete breakin if required.

I get parts from http://rc-mushroom.com conrod is cheap enough so its worth replacing it after breakin (or a few months after, depends how much you use it)
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:39 PM
  #967  
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ye il definitely go easy on it..

i got 16%nitro fuel.. is that cool?
also what are the needle settings for run in?

once again i appreciate ur input fellas, nice to see a forum with some aussies in it!
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:41 PM
  #968  
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Engine comes with two shims, if you run 16% you need to take out the cooper shim which is 0.2mm (the aluminium shim is 0.3mm)
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:43 PM
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geez im glad i logged on here...
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Old 07-11-2004, 11:49 PM
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last one...

can i get a threaded crank replacement for this baby?
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Old 07-12-2004, 03:37 AM
  #971  
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nightmare is a very helpful person! he talked me out of getting a SMARTECH on ebay lol!!! but he tried to talk me into getting a LD3!!! hey what was your old sirio engine nightmare? was it the sirio S12 TRP 3 port?
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Old 07-12-2004, 03:55 PM
  #972  
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Good news ! the piston is as smooth as a babys bum and the sleeve is tighter than..... you know what i mean.. and the crank pin is nice and round (new conrod on order anyway).

thanks for your help fellas!
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Old 07-12-2004, 04:05 PM
  #973  
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Default Re: d5

Originally posted by Rabbit
Good news ! the piston is as smooth as a babys bum and the sleeve is tighter than..... you know what i mean.. and the crank pin is nice and round (new conrod on order anyway).

thanks for your help fellas!
Sounds like you've yourself a good motor!
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Old 07-12-2004, 04:07 PM
  #974  
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Rabbit, you need to finish break in then. Sounds like the person tried running engine before breakin complete - didn't like performance and sold it. she will come alive once you have broken it in Nice work ! (hahha thats funny you read my message about that ebay advert )

Brain, Yeah it was a Sirio TRP PRO .12 (3port), conrod bushing wore terrible and carb turned to junk in around 6 months (others have experienced this - see the sirio thread). I believe STS is MUCH better quality. My Piston/Sleeve is still fine though, might ebay it $1NR.. lol..
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Old 07-12-2004, 04:12 PM
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Hello,

Anyone know how much for a piston and sleeve here in Australia for a D3? I got quoted $85. Is this a fair price?
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