momotalo

hi guys, this is my first time using MTX-3, i've just buy MTC-3 PROSPEC, can anybody give the best setting for this car, and what is the different with the car if i use A , B or C for the rear susp arm???

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

hi,

I always stick with the suggested set up when i build a car (although I think 4deg camber is too much, i use 2)

the A B C blocks raise and lower your rear roll center.

resarch a little in regards to roll centers so you know what the effect of each change is.

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

If you get a chance grab an issue of Xtreme RC car magazine, this month as a set up by Robbie Collins on the Mugen MTX-3. He recommends going with a B block and tells under what circumstances to change to the A or C. Grab one issue, it helps in other areas of the car also. Great to have in the Tool box when out at the track working on setup...

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

I second that !

His car look very simple have you guys noticed?

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

I too am new to the mtx3 and I have the issue of RC driver that has given a lot of information. I still have a few questions. I've been running the NTC3 for some time now and I have never used a one-way in the front, I'm 2 hours from a good track, Speedline in Largo or the new one in Orlando, so what should I expect from the one-way in handling. Will it make the car turn more when on throttle or off?. I'm confused on the 16/19 conversion, do I use it or not? and also, what is the best all around diff oil to use? Thank you ahead of time for the help.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

One way makes the car faster when taking turns, it gives you a little less on power streering from my experience. Also you can not slam on the brakes with a one way as the car will be off balance, you need to use some sort of ABS or apply brakes softly. In a nut shell, the car wont stop as fast as with a diff.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

the braking part isn't much of a problem, I have been running nitro pan cars and they don't have much for brakes either. thank you

Ed Delgado

iTrader: (3)

I set my brake EPA (endpoint adjustment) during warmup so that I can give full brake, and not have the rear wheels lock up. I'ts like having anti-lock brakes: instead of just lifting and smoothly turn in to the corner, I now try to be more aggressive, transitioning form on throttle to brake as I approach the apex, then coast at the apex, then roll back on the throttle coming out of the corner. It seems to be a bit faster, as it tends to help smoothly transfer the weight from rear to front.

By the way, I have an M8 radio, and I leave the display on that adjusment so I can play with during a long main (during pit stops).

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

I need you to show me how to set the centax with out takin out my engine... I can set seem to figure out where the hole is. maybe you can post a pic?

Bandeira

The problem is when you change engines... Some Engines I have need different throttle neutral settings, which screw up with my brake EPA...

Bivens

oops again...

Bivens

oops...double post

Bivens

Gear diffs.....almost NEVER need rebuilding.....I've got over one-gallon on my rear diff now with no-signs of leaking or trouble....still feels exactly like it should.....You may need to buy multiple diffs to speed-up changes....(If you want to change the feel of the diff...you must empty the fluid and re-fill with another...no simple screw to tighten...but no adjustment to change unexpectedly either....)

I ran an NTC3 last year.....There is NO comparison.....this is a REAL car...the other was a TOY....I wouldn't even sell it to one of my friends....that'd be cruel......seriously....there is MUCH less maintenance with the MTX than with the associated.....No-longer do I spend hours between weekends inspecting the car for broken and bent parts and bearings......This car is TOUGH.....it's primarily put together just like the 1/8 scale....little to no maintenance and minimal breakage.....and at the track, you can concentrate on setting it up rather than repairs.......off my soapbox now......it's a great car....The toughest out there....

I'm not sure what setup this speaks about.....but....the One-way will usually add steering off power compared to a front-diff....simply because the front cannot have any drivetrain drag transmitted ot the tires....while the rear has some minimal drag-brake due to friction in the drivetrain...even when you do not use the brakes.......

On-power....a locked front end whether One-way or spool should drive the same...providing a lot of on-power steering because both wheels drag the front-end in the direction they're pointed....without any diff motion to loose the pull......

Over-all.....a front diff should be more forgiving...but will likely be less agressive and slower than a CONSISTANT driver with a spool or one-way......Personally, I like a spool at unfamiliar tracks or tracks that are slick.......I like a one-way on flowing tracks without braking zones.......If you've gotta brake and turn-in at the same time...that pretty-much rules out the one-way for me......and I like my brakes.......

Look right behind the 2nd-gear pinion (rotate the clutch bell very slowly...there's only ONE hole....about 1mm diameter.....Insert allen-wrench or music wire here and feel for the notch in the clutch-adjusting nut.....

no4hitter

iTrader: (5)

Bandeira

Quick question to see if you guys come with anything interesting...

Apart from rear toe-in, removing shims and cuting down the rear hub to chance roll center... using the A rear blocks, A-Ackerman, front hard swaybar... How would you decrease steering in the entry part of the curves?