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Old 06-07-2004, 09:13 AM   #12721
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hi guys, this is my first time using MTX-3, i've just buy MTC-3 PROSPEC, can anybody give the best setting for this car, and what is the different with the car if i use A , B or C for the rear susp arm???
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Old 06-07-2004, 11:51 AM   #12722
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hi,

I always stick with the suggested set up when i build a car (although I think 4deg camber is too much, i use 2)

the A B C blocks raise and lower your rear roll center.

resarch a little in regards to roll centers so you know what the effect of each change is.
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Old 06-07-2004, 12:47 PM   #12723
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Quote:
Originally posted by momotalo
hi guys, this is my first time using MTX-3, i've just buy MTC-3 PROSPEC, can anybody give the best setting for this car, and what is the different with the car if i use A , B or C for the rear susp arm???

If you get a chance grab an issue of Xtreme RC car magazine, this month as a set up by Robbie Collins on the Mugen MTX-3. He recommends going with a B block and tells under what circumstances to change to the A or C. Grab one issue, it helps in other areas of the car also. Great to have in the Tool box when out at the track working on setup...
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:18 PM   #12724
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If you get a chance grab an issue of Xtreme RC car magazine, this month as a set up by Robbie Collins on the Mugen MTX-3. He recommends going with a B block and tells under what circumstances to change to the A or C. Grab one issue, it helps in other areas of the car also. Great to have in the Tool box when out at the track working on setup...
I second that !

His car look very simple have you guys noticed?
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:30 PM   #12725
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I too am new to the mtx3 and I have the issue of RC driver that has given a lot of information. I still have a few questions. I've been running the NTC3 for some time now and I have never used a one-way in the front, I'm 2 hours from a good track, Speedline in Largo or the new one in Orlando, so what should I expect from the one-way in handling. Will it make the car turn more when on throttle or off?. I'm confused on the 16/19 conversion, do I use it or not? and also, what is the best all around diff oil to use? Thank you ahead of time for the help.
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:43 PM   #12726
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Quote:
I too am new to the mtx3 and I have the issue of RC driver that has given a lot of information. I still have a few questions. I've been running the NTC3 for some time now and I have never used a one-way in the front, I'm 2 hours from a good track, Speedline in Largo or the new one in Orlando, so what should I expect from the one-way in handling. Will it make the car turn more when on throttle or off?. I'm confused on the 16/19 conversion, do I use it or not? and also, what is the best all around diff oil to use? Thank you ahead of time for the help.
One way makes the car faster when taking turns, it gives you a little less on power streering from my experience. Also you can not slam on the brakes with a one way as the car will be off balance, you need to use some sort of ABS or apply brakes softly. In a nut shell, the car wont stop as fast as with a diff.
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:47 PM   #12727
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the braking part isn't much of a problem, I have been running nitro pan cars and they don't have much for brakes either. thank you
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:13 PM   #12728
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Default Brake Settings

I set my brake EPA (endpoint adjustment) during warmup so that I can give full brake, and not have the rear wheels lock up. I'ts like having anti-lock brakes: instead of just lifting and smoothly turn in to the corner, I now try to be more aggressive, transitioning form on throttle to brake as I approach the apex, then coast at the apex, then roll back on the throttle coming out of the corner. It seems to be a bit faster, as it tends to help smoothly transfer the weight from rear to front.

By the way, I have an M8 radio, and I leave the display on that adjusment so I can play with during a long main (during pit stops).
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:20 PM   #12729
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I need you to show me how to set the centax with out takin out my engine... I can set seem to figure out where the hole is. maybe you can post a pic?
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:44 PM   #12730
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Default Re: Brake Settings

Quote:
Originally posted by Ed Delgado
I set my brake EPA (endpoint adjustment) during warmup so that I can give full brake, and not have the rear wheels lock up. I'ts like having anti-lock brakes: instead of just lifting and smoothly turn in to the corner, I now try to be more aggressive, transitioning form on throttle to brake as I approach the apex, then coast at the apex, then roll back on the throttle coming out of the corner. It seems to be a bit faster, as it tends to help smoothly transfer the weight from rear to front.

By the way, I have an M8 radio, and I leave the display on that adjusment so I can play with during a long main (during pit stops).
The problem is when you change engines... Some Engines I have need different throttle neutral settings, which screw up with my brake EPA...
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:03 PM   #12731
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oops again...
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:03 PM   #12732
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oops...double post
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:04 PM   #12733
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What kind of Diffs are in the MTX-3 and how often do you have to rebuild them. I have a NTC3 right now and there is alot of maint. on the drive train with this car. (mainly diffs.) They can withstand 2 qualifiers and a 30 min. main but then they are done. Thanks, I am thinking of switching. Also, how does it drive compared to a Ntc3?
Gear diffs.....almost NEVER need rebuilding.....I've got over one-gallon on my rear diff now with no-signs of leaking or trouble....still feels exactly like it should.....You may need to buy multiple diffs to speed-up changes....(If you want to change the feel of the diff...you must empty the fluid and re-fill with another...no simple screw to tighten...but no adjustment to change unexpectedly either....)

I ran an NTC3 last year.....There is NO comparison.....this is a REAL car...the other was a TOY....I wouldn't even sell it to one of my friends....that'd be cruel......seriously....there is MUCH less maintenance with the MTX than with the associated.....No-longer do I spend hours between weekends inspecting the car for broken and bent parts and bearings......This car is TOUGH.....it's primarily put together just like the 1/8 scale....little to no maintenance and minimal breakage.....and at the track, you can concentrate on setting it up rather than repairs.......off my soapbox now......it's a great car....The toughest out there....

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One way makes the car faster when taking turns, it gives you a little less on power streering from my experience
I'm not sure what setup this speaks about.....but....the One-way will usually add steering off power compared to a front-diff....simply because the front cannot have any drivetrain drag transmitted ot the tires....while the rear has some minimal drag-brake due to friction in the drivetrain...even when you do not use the brakes.......

On-power....a locked front end whether One-way or spool should drive the same...providing a lot of on-power steering because both wheels drag the front-end in the direction they're pointed....without any diff motion to loose the pull......

Over-all.....a front diff should be more forgiving...but will likely be less agressive and slower than a CONSISTANT driver with a spool or one-way......Personally, I like a spool at unfamiliar tracks or tracks that are slick.......I like a one-way on flowing tracks without braking zones.......If you've gotta brake and turn-in at the same time...that pretty-much rules out the one-way for me......and I like my brakes.......

Quote:
I can set seem to figure out where the hole is. maybe you can post a pic?
Look right behind the 2nd-gear pinion (rotate the clutch bell very slowly...there's only ONE hole....about 1mm diameter.....Insert allen-wrench or music wire here and feel for the notch in the clutch-adjusting nut.....
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:16 PM   #12734
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Default Thanks Bivens, that is what I was hoping to here

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Old 06-07-2004, 05:36 PM   #12735
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Quick question to see if you guys come with anything interesting...

Apart from rear toe-in, removing shims and cuting down the rear hub to chance roll center... using the A rear blocks, A-Ackerman, front hard swaybar... How would you decrease steering in the entry part of the curves?
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