Mugen MTX-3
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I think I was talking to someone about a rubber tire set up when I was saying use the Black shoe. When on a high bite track use the grey or red As far as spring I use the gold for most applications, I usually have about 2 full threads showing behind the adjustment nut.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by MARKANO
Mr SlotMachine
Just wondering what is the reason to use the stock BLACK clutch instead of the option GREY / RED?? I thought the optional Gray/Red clutch will provide less "slip"?
What is the ideal spring that come with the clutch set, Silver or Gold.
Thanks.
Just wondering what is the reason to use the stock BLACK clutch instead of the option GREY / RED?? I thought the optional Gray/Red clutch will provide less "slip"?
What is the ideal spring that come with the clutch set, Silver or Gold.
Thanks.
Tech Adept
Mr Slot, yes you did mention the rubber tires, me bad.
Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by MARKANO
Mr Slot, yes you did mention the rubber tires, me bad.
Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
Tech Regular
i have an MTX-3 up for grabs if anyone is interested. it's loaded with spares and a serpent starter box. pm for details.
He meant this :
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=85041
I haven't change the 2 speed clutch since 4 or 5 months. Make sure to perform periodic check before race day.
Tigthen SK4x8 until tiny gap appeared. If you tighten the screws until TO233 can't twist left & right, the transition from 1st to 2nd feels smoother. And vice versa.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=85041
I haven't change the 2 speed clutch since 4 or 5 months. Make sure to perform periodic check before race day.
Tigthen SK4x8 until tiny gap appeared. If you tighten the screws until TO233 can't twist left & right, the transition from 1st to 2nd feels smoother. And vice versa.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by MARKANO
Mr Slot, yes you did mention the rubber tires, me bad.
Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
Just another question, is it a good idea to use the longer allen screw instead of using the shorted screw with the 3mm ball for the clutch shoes which was posted before.
I use the Serpent assembly trick, Screw the grub screw in from the other side, Stick your wrench in through the hole and unscrew the grub from the bottom side like you are taking it out instead of putting it in. That way the screw will never back out all the way by itself.
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by afm
I totally agree with you. We used to race with BSR's, but unfortunately they are not legal sized for sanctioned races, and we had to search for something else...that is how we ended with PMT.....I wised BSR would build a legal sized tyre...I'd go back to them even it they are pricey.
AFM
AFM
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
rear block wrap up
so if i am racing on a track with low traction i dont want alot of roll because it will cause more sliding. so i should use the C block or B versus the A?
try the C block, should help
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by gentleman81
so if i am racing on a track with low traction i don't want a lot of roll because it will cause more sliding. so i should use the C block or B versus the A?
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
my race is sunday so i will see how the C block works for me with the proper set up. thanks again
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
I Use C block Works Great
Get this, My wife and I raced on a loose concrete track this weekend and her car was everywhere except where the line was, so i gave the prospec some rear toe in, and lowered the rear shock one hole and tested it between heat's. Better but still a little loose. Then I noticed All of the Mugen guy's had there rear sway bar dissconnected! So, being (Monkey see-Monkey do.)I removed our Mugen's rear sway- And wow! it stuck great! Anybody else tried this? I recommend it on concrete and loose-unpreped track's. Just my 2 cent's. C.
Good on you..... now I learn my ABC