Kyosho v-one rrr
06-04-2009, 05:31 AM
#9811
Nice Dodge Ivan!!
nitronutzzz, hope you get the dilemma sorted out.. interesting.. let us know if you do and how. You use the same body and tires?
Run my evo last sunday for 1st time, with X312T engine (old model, Kyosho logos on the head). It was fantastic. I loved the way the car handled out of the box with the kit setup. I was also very happy with the engine, hope that will last. Hope to see some sedan guys at the track at the same time to compare my speed though it for sure felt fast
)
nitronutzzz, hope you get the dilemma sorted out.. interesting.. let us know if you do and how. You use the same body and tires?
Run my evo last sunday for 1st time, with X312T engine (old model, Kyosho logos on the head). It was fantastic. I loved the way the car handled out of the box with the kit setup. I was also very happy with the engine, hope that will last. Hope to see some sedan guys at the track at the same time to compare my speed though it for sure felt fast
)
06-18-2009, 02:23 AM
#9813
Hi,
here's my new lid I just painted
The track has recently got pretty clean and the bite is quite good.
Yesterday I changed to the oneway which I really liked after running the diff in front.
I'm using the WCE kit setup as far as I can see, I've been trying to follow the manual to do so.
I'm using GRP foam tires, a fact that I cannot change for the moment. I think they're 40 shore.
Car handles very nice. However, I feel understeer in one fast sweeper turning left in 90deg angle eventually. I would like to accelerate in full throttle from the middle of the sweeper all the way to the main straight, but currently I have to play with the throttle to avoid hitting the fences when coming out from the corner (the car understeers).
Now, before I start experimenting with the setup (I have only the kit parts, no extra springs etc) what would you do in order to improve steering (not to understeer) when accelerating out from the fast corner to the main straight? Turning into corners is fine and I would like to keep the oneway in front.
Less front caster? 2mm clips in front of the hinge pin
Higher rear roll center ? (rear lower hinge pins to the lowest position?)
What else?
All tips appreciated! Thanks
here's my new lid I just painted
The track has recently got pretty clean and the bite is quite good.
Yesterday I changed to the oneway which I really liked after running the diff in front.
I'm using the WCE kit setup as far as I can see, I've been trying to follow the manual to do so.
I'm using GRP foam tires, a fact that I cannot change for the moment. I think they're 40 shore.
Car handles very nice. However, I feel understeer in one fast sweeper turning left in 90deg angle eventually. I would like to accelerate in full throttle from the middle of the sweeper all the way to the main straight, but currently I have to play with the throttle to avoid hitting the fences when coming out from the corner (the car understeers).
Now, before I start experimenting with the setup (I have only the kit parts, no extra springs etc) what would you do in order to improve steering (not to understeer) when accelerating out from the fast corner to the main straight? Turning into corners is fine and I would like to keep the oneway in front.
Less front caster? 2mm clips in front of the hinge pin
Higher rear roll center ? (rear lower hinge pins to the lowest position?)
What else?
All tips appreciated! Thanks
Last edited by MikaR; 06-18-2009 at 09:31 AM.
06-22-2009, 12:34 AM
#9814
Hi, let me try again: I would need more steering when exiting a corner. How?
I cannot change shock springs or tires for the moment. I want to keep the oneway in front.
I cannot change shock springs or tires for the moment. I want to keep the oneway in front.
06-22-2009, 12:54 AM
#9815
how much camber in front?
try less toe in rear.and higher rear diff silicone.
try less toe in rear.and higher rear diff silicone.
06-22-2009, 12:58 AM
#9816
Increase the caster angle slightly, stiffen the rear anti-roll bar, or narrow the rear end. Just a few suggestions.
Last edited by SteveP; 06-22-2009 at 02:15 AM.
06-22-2009, 01:53 AM
#9817
Thanks a lot Steve and Gregory!
Camber should be the kit setup, maybe 0-1 deg (?)
Rear diff is 30K, the one that comes in the box.
Will try these.
Camber should be the kit setup, maybe 0-1 deg (?)
Rear diff is 30K, the one that comes in the box.
Will try these.
06-22-2009, 08:49 AM
#9818
Ok, I think I found it; I raised the roll center of the rear slightly (with the hinge pins at their lowest position) as well as increased a bit more front caster. I could drive it all the way full throttle. I also realized that my rear tires wear now more evenly, could that be possible? I didn't touch the swaybars, nor shocks.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
06-29-2009, 05:27 AM
#9819
hi guys.i want to share with you my rrr wc with some mods that i have make to it.
Last edited by GREGORY!; 06-29-2009 at 05:43 AM.
06-29-2009, 05:34 AM
#9820
...
06-29-2009, 08:19 AM
#9821
hi there Gregory..
i can see u have replaced the wheel nut..but why did u did that? i'm asking b'cos it does look very strange and i think that thing could cause plenty of damage when u accidentally hit the sidewall..the impact could spread to the other components..such as the wheel shaft (VZ013), knuckle arm (VZ201), pillow ball (FZ74) and many other parts.
and the second thing..just to give my opinion base on experience..it's better to use the plastic handle (VZ208) rather than the metal option part..the reason is when u accidentally flip over your car, it'll cause severe damage on the roof top and maybe shred it apart in just a second!!
Anyway..nice body work bro..
and happy racing..
i can see u have replaced the wheel nut..but why did u did that? i'm asking b'cos it does look very strange and i think that thing could cause plenty of damage when u accidentally hit the sidewall..the impact could spread to the other components..such as the wheel shaft (VZ013), knuckle arm (VZ201), pillow ball (FZ74) and many other parts.
and the second thing..just to give my opinion base on experience..it's better to use the plastic handle (VZ208) rather than the metal option part..the reason is when u accidentally flip over your car, it'll cause severe damage on the roof top and maybe shred it apart in just a second!!
Anyway..nice body work bro..
and happy racing..
06-29-2009, 08:32 AM
#9822
these screws are not for use when racing.are for quick change the set up gauges.i use normal screws when i run the car.
and for the metal bar.i use this because the plastic one is don't clear the crf because it is a bit tall.
and for the metal bar.i use this because the plastic one is don't clear the crf because it is a bit tall.
.but i think that metal bar is taller than the standard..i'm pretty sure b'cos mine is taller..it reaches the roof top of the body shell ( ALTIS 2.3 and DODGE STRATUS). But if yours is different..then is ok.
06-29-2009, 09:03 AM
#9824
we are saying the same.yes the metal bar are taller.
i use that because the crf is taller than other engines.
i don't care about bodies,if it scratch them it's ok.
the only think that i care is the engine.so i use the tall one to have a bit secure.
i use that because the crf is taller than other engines.
i don't care about bodies,if it scratch them it's ok.
the only think that i care is the engine.so i use the tall one to have a bit secure.
its the heatsink u care about..OK..
