Kyosho v-one rrr
09-21-2004, 01:35 PM
#16
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Originally posted by choisan
only 1 bad thing for the 3r, the long belt is touching the exhaust, no matter how low we make the belt tensioner. the belt got some bubble burnt, he replaced 3 belts already. but this car is very mtx3 feel(my opinion), the rear end is really willing to turn but stable.
only 1 bad thing for the 3r, the long belt is touching the exhaust, no matter how low we make the belt tensioner. the belt got some bubble burnt, he replaced 3 belts already. but this car is very mtx3 feel(my opinion), the rear end is really willing to turn but stable.
09-21-2004, 02:12 PM
#17
Tech Regular
is there a front diff available for the car
choisan- the exhaust problem you have encountered may just be the make/type you are using, different makes run different sized manifolds, if its a short one, the bends can be quite tight and cause problems
choisan- the exhaust problem you have encountered may just be the make/type you are using, different makes run different sized manifolds, if its a short one, the bends can be quite tight and cause problems
09-21-2004, 02:16 PM
#18
I noiced they got rid of the floating rear too. Can I use parts to convert my rr to a RRR rear? Which parts?
09-21-2004, 04:50 PM
#19
Tech Adept
I know rc-mushroom.com has the v-one rrr listed on their website.
09-21-2004, 05:03 PM
#20
Tech Adept
Yes, I have this kit in hand and have been racing it. I think it was released in japan in mid august. Here in japan there are 2 versions:
1 the engineless kit including carbon uperdeck, alloy with insert pillow balls, carbon rear stay, both one way and front diff, and every peice of plastic on it is carbon composite except for switch holder and a few other small pieces. I picked up this one for about 26000 japanese yen
2 the sirio engine kit, this kit is around 52000 japanese yen and has all of the above but also a new sirio evo II (i believe) and manifold mufler etc.
3? I hear there may be a newer version with a four stroke engine included? I am not interested in this one though so havent looked into it.
The rear stay does look flimsy to me as it mounts with only 2 screws....but i have had a couple of high speed rolls, courtesy of lapped traffic, and it has held up with no problems.
The manifold rubs on the belt at the engine/manifold flange. This is more apparent with zac/rossi pipe manifold combos. I have noticed that the bottom of my zac mani flange has a flat edge that would allow belt clearance mounting it so that the pipe is on a sloping angle lined this flat spot up with the belt and stopped the rub. There could be two other ways to stop this...#1 is grind of a bit of the flange it isnt much that wears only a tiny bit on the trailing edge of the flange...... or #2 would be to go to a kyosho type manifold which are much slimmer than the flared rossi style mani. You could also use an engine mount that isnt so low profile.
As for the app I havent switched. The stock one is fine for me and i only tap my brakes a few times a lap so i dont have fade problems. You would need to make sure you bought an oval mounting style disk as opposed to the pin type mount. as far as mounting the pads just bolt them on.
The fw-05r is a tank. very heavy but also very tough......I have actually driven through a mugen (by accident and very bad for the mugen) and only popped off a knuckle and a bent shaft. The only weak part on the car is the front bulk/stay. But like i said it doesnt fit my driving style at all. I have one for sale if anyone wants it, with many many spare parts and options. pm if interested.
The 3r is lighter than the evo aswell... 3R has all composite parts. It is actually under roar weight and needs 3 to 4 quarters to bring it up to weight. How often are we having to add weight to a car? this is very nice.
It isnt even a choice as far as I am concerned, the RRR over the other kyoshos. It has the same feel as a mugen but is 400 dollars cheaper and much easier to work on.
I will try to get some pics up this weekend.
1 the engineless kit including carbon uperdeck, alloy with insert pillow balls, carbon rear stay, both one way and front diff, and every peice of plastic on it is carbon composite except for switch holder and a few other small pieces. I picked up this one for about 26000 japanese yen
2 the sirio engine kit, this kit is around 52000 japanese yen and has all of the above but also a new sirio evo II (i believe) and manifold mufler etc.
3? I hear there may be a newer version with a four stroke engine included? I am not interested in this one though so havent looked into it.
The rear stay does look flimsy to me as it mounts with only 2 screws....but i have had a couple of high speed rolls, courtesy of lapped traffic, and it has held up with no problems.
The manifold rubs on the belt at the engine/manifold flange. This is more apparent with zac/rossi pipe manifold combos. I have noticed that the bottom of my zac mani flange has a flat edge that would allow belt clearance mounting it so that the pipe is on a sloping angle lined this flat spot up with the belt and stopped the rub. There could be two other ways to stop this...#1 is grind of a bit of the flange it isnt much that wears only a tiny bit on the trailing edge of the flange...... or #2 would be to go to a kyosho type manifold which are much slimmer than the flared rossi style mani. You could also use an engine mount that isnt so low profile.
As for the app I havent switched. The stock one is fine for me and i only tap my brakes a few times a lap so i dont have fade problems. You would need to make sure you bought an oval mounting style disk as opposed to the pin type mount. as far as mounting the pads just bolt them on.
The fw-05r is a tank. very heavy but also very tough......I have actually driven through a mugen (by accident and very bad for the mugen) and only popped off a knuckle and a bent shaft. The only weak part on the car is the front bulk/stay. But like i said it doesnt fit my driving style at all. I have one for sale if anyone wants it, with many many spare parts and options. pm if interested.
The 3r is lighter than the evo aswell... 3R has all composite parts. It is actually under roar weight and needs 3 to 4 quarters to bring it up to weight. How often are we having to add weight to a car? this is very nice.
It isnt even a choice as far as I am concerned, the RRR over the other kyoshos. It has the same feel as a mugen but is 400 dollars cheaper and much easier to work on.
I will try to get some pics up this weekend.
09-22-2004, 12:52 AM
#21
i am about to build my RRR, are there any tips to building this car? anything the instructions dont point out etc? thanks!
09-22-2004, 04:13 AM
#22
Tech Adept
I thought the reason for throttle lay down servo is to lower the cg.But when I saw the rrr , kyosho places the battery below the fuel tank thus does not make the car any lower then rr evo.Am I right or wrong??
09-22-2004, 05:58 PM
#23
Tech Adept
Do the K-factory parts for the rr work on ther rrr.
09-22-2004, 08:41 PM
#24
Originally posted by jnims29
Do the K-factory parts for the rr work on ther rrr.
Do the K-factory parts for the rr work on ther rrr.
09-22-2004, 08:47 PM
#25
Tech Adept
I see. Just Curious.
09-22-2004, 08:51 PM
#26
Originally posted by jnims29
Do the K-factory parts for the rr work on ther rrr.
Do the K-factory parts for the rr work on ther rrr.
09-22-2004, 09:25 PM
#27
Team RTR:
1) Replace the 3x3 grub screw that hold the front roll bar to 3x6, if possible replace all the self-tapping screw to machine screws as they hold better.
2) Take note of the orientation of rear adjustable ring when installing the diff.
3) The front arm will be tight after installation, don't worry too much it wil be able to drop on it own weight after running the car.
4) The new 4D clutch spring are longer thus require less tension, the instruction mentioned 1.2mm, but I find it a little too tight, you may want to try at 1mm.
5) The car only come with 4 x 1mm plastic clip (2 on each arm) for adjusting the caster, however the upper seem to be very loose. I am running with 3 x 1mm each side.
6) If you are ruuning Mazda 6, you have to mount the rear body mount to the front so that the post are clear from the wing stud.
1) Replace the 3x3 grub screw that hold the front roll bar to 3x6, if possible replace all the self-tapping screw to machine screws as they hold better.
2) Take note of the orientation of rear adjustable ring when installing the diff.
3) The front arm will be tight after installation, don't worry too much it wil be able to drop on it own weight after running the car.
4) The new 4D clutch spring are longer thus require less tension, the instruction mentioned 1.2mm, but I find it a little too tight, you may want to try at 1mm.
5) The car only come with 4 x 1mm plastic clip (2 on each arm) for adjusting the caster, however the upper seem to be very loose. I am running with 3 x 1mm each side.
6) If you are ruuning Mazda 6, you have to mount the rear body mount to the front so that the post are clear from the wing stud.
09-22-2004, 10:35 PM
#28
Originally posted by Joehwee
Team RTR:
1) Replace the 3x3 grub screw that hold the front roll bar to 3x6, if possible replace all the self-tapping screw to machine screws as they hold better.
2) Take note of the orientation of rear adjustable ring when installing the diff.
3) The front arm will be tight after installation, don't worry too much it wil be able to drop on it own weight after running the car.
4) The new 4D clutch spring are longer thus require less tension, the instruction mentioned 1.2mm, but I find it a little too tight, you may want to try at 1mm.
5) The car only come with 4 x 1mm plastic clip (2 on each arm) for adjusting the caster, however the upper seem to be very loose. I am running with 3 x 1mm each side.
6) If you are ruuning Mazda 6, you have to mount the rear body mount to the front so that the post are clear from the wing stud.
Team RTR:
1) Replace the 3x3 grub screw that hold the front roll bar to 3x6, if possible replace all the self-tapping screw to machine screws as they hold better.
2) Take note of the orientation of rear adjustable ring when installing the diff.
3) The front arm will be tight after installation, don't worry too much it wil be able to drop on it own weight after running the car.
4) The new 4D clutch spring are longer thus require less tension, the instruction mentioned 1.2mm, but I find it a little too tight, you may want to try at 1mm.
5) The car only come with 4 x 1mm plastic clip (2 on each arm) for adjusting the caster, however the upper seem to be very loose. I am running with 3 x 1mm each side.
6) If you are ruuning Mazda 6, you have to mount the rear body mount to the front so that the post are clear from the wing stud.
thank heaps!
09-23-2004, 12:03 AM
#29
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thanks for that very helpful information guys...still waiting here in the Philippines when will this kit arrive. am already excited to get one...
