Serpent 710
#6018
3Racing Parts
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
well got my first problem one of the dogbones was defective nothing a hammer cant solve, but I will have to buy those cvds asap
well got my first problem one of the dogbones was defective nothing a hammer cant solve, but I will have to buy those cvds asap
I brought some of the products out this weekend to the race and I must say that everyone loved the parts and every SSG part they/I sell is cheaper in price than the standard
Serpent price and really is great quality.
http://www.swrc.biz
#6019
Re: Re: 710 SSG
Originally posted by InitialD
How is the quality of the Titanium shafts? Have you tried running the car with CVDs?
Can you let us know what hop ups that give you those weight and performance advantage and what does not or the ones that just serve as eye candy?
BTW JABRONI, the pics look really cool.
About SSG graphite, I was told that usually since this type of graphite is softer (more flex), they are made thicker. Don't know how true this is. Anybody can shed some light?
How is the quality of the Titanium shafts? Have you tried running the car with CVDs?
Can you let us know what hop ups that give you those weight and performance advantage and what does not or the ones that just serve as eye candy?
BTW JABRONI, the pics look really cool.
About SSG graphite, I was told that usually since this type of graphite is softer (more flex), they are made thicker. Don't know how true this is. Anybody can shed some light?
The Titanium shafts look really good and that is were most of the weight savings is. Althought this is a very small rotational mass, it does reduce some weight as well as the engine mounts. All in all it appears to be approx 1/2 an ounce. My pictures of the scale didnt turn out so well, so I will get some more info when I get a chance sometime tommorow.
As far as the Graphite goes, it feels real good and a guy was using a caliper and said they were slightly thicker, however when I weighed it all out, I didnt notice a weight difference and another guy said he felt it was stiffer ?? who knows ??
All in all I got about half of the products that are available and alot of interest is being centered around the Titanium pivot balls as well. I do not have those yet with the delrin retainers.
Time will tell, but the SSG does look sweet and appears to be pretty good quality .
I think the best option is the front upper bumper plate that has an aluminum peice that stays attached to the blocks with the droop grubscrews installed, and the bumper can be removed when needed.
#6020
JABRONI, thanks for the short feedback. Let us know from time to time and keep it up serving the Serpent racers over at your track.
#6021
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
hey guys my car takes forever to take off.. I have to rev it up pretty hi.. I was told to use spring #909518 and will solve my problem.. currently I have a distance of .5mm on the clutch nut.
or should i stay with the normal spring that came in the kit?
which one is softer? i want my car to be very responsive... HELP HELP PLEASE
or should i stay with the normal spring that came in the kit?
which one is softer? i want my car to be very responsive... HELP HELP PLEASE
#6022
Originally posted by InitialD
I believe Proficar403 mentioned earlier back that he saw what he thought to be a revised 710 kit with the thick rear shock towers. Don't know about the quality of the plastics have improved though...
I believe Proficar403 mentioned earlier back that he saw what he thought to be a revised 710 kit with the thick rear shock towers. Don't know about the quality of the plastics have improved though...
#6023
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by Proficar403
Nope, unfortunately we have not seen any kits here with revised shock towers yet. I had mentioned that the new kits here included new black flywheels and brown first gears. No one here has the new shock towers yet.
Nope, unfortunately we have not seen any kits here with revised shock towers yet. I had mentioned that the new kits here included new black flywheels and brown first gears. No one here has the new shock towers yet.
Seems the mesh/module slight difference with the black(previous)one or maybe just thicker coating.
#6024
Just wondering, once you guys have your cars all together, how do you disconnect your rear and front sway bars? For the rear do you unscrew the ball or pop the plastic link off of the ball? For the front, do you just go from under the car and pry the sway bars from each other?? Probably a stupid question but just want to make sure. Thanks.
#6025
Originally posted by BaxterC
Hi guys, please would you tell me the difference between ceramic bearing and normal, and also why one would want titanium screws on a cal? Have any of you actually bent or broken a screw? I am a little confused as to why one would want such strong screws...
Hi guys, please would you tell me the difference between ceramic bearing and normal, and also why one would want titanium screws on a cal? Have any of you actually bent or broken a screw? I am a little confused as to why one would want such strong screws...
Ceramic bearings are lighter and will last longer.
All the above are not to say that the 710 is heavy or that the ball bearings are faulty and all. Just that sometimes, people find strange things to do with their cars when there is nothing else that you can do to it !
#6026
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by InitialD
Like Herbie mentioned, we want light cars ! We are weight freaks !
Ceramic bearings are lighter and will last longer.
All the above are not to say that the 710 is heavy or that the ball bearings are faulty and all. Just that sometimes, people find strange things to do with their cars when there is nothing else that you can do to it !
Like Herbie mentioned, we want light cars ! We are weight freaks !
Ceramic bearings are lighter and will last longer.
All the above are not to say that the 710 is heavy or that the ball bearings are faulty and all. Just that sometimes, people find strange things to do with their cars when there is nothing else that you can do to it !
#6027
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
you should come and check out our track here in florida its Full Throttle Speedway here are some pics
or click on this link
Full Throttle Speedway
you should come and check out our track here in florida its Full Throttle Speedway here are some pics
or click on this link
Full Throttle Speedway
#6028
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Just wondering, once you guys have your cars all together, how do you disconnect your rear and front sway bars? For the rear do you unscrew the ball or pop the plastic link off of the ball? For the front, do you just go from under the car and pry the sway bars from each other?? Probably a stupid question but just want to make sure. Thanks.
Just wondering, once you guys have your cars all together, how do you disconnect your rear and front sway bars? For the rear do you unscrew the ball or pop the plastic link off of the ball? For the front, do you just go from under the car and pry the sway bars from each other?? Probably a stupid question but just want to make sure. Thanks.
In front, unscrew the bar holder then slide back so it wont touches.
#6029
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Just wondering, once you guys have your cars all together, how do you disconnect your rear and front sway bars? For the rear do you unscrew the ball or pop the plastic link off of the ball? For the front, do you just go from under the car and pry the sway bars from each other?? Probably a stupid question but just want to make sure. Thanks.
Just wondering, once you guys have your cars all together, how do you disconnect your rear and front sway bars? For the rear do you unscrew the ball or pop the plastic link off of the ball? For the front, do you just go from under the car and pry the sway bars from each other?? Probably a stupid question but just want to make sure. Thanks.
As for the front sway bars, just loosen one side of the H9 (3 x 4mm) grub screw (refer to Step 1.3 on page 4 of the manual) on one of the arms. Not necessary to do it on both sides. Take a nose plier to grip and push / slide that loosened sway bar to the side to "disconnect" the ball and cup assembly. That's all to it !
When you want to connect the front sway bars back again, push the sway bar back in to form and connect the sway bar ball and cup assembly.
#6030
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
Well I have just got back from my LHS with a snake under my arm, I am still a little unsure of my decision (you are welcome to give support) of getting rid of my r40 and buy a 710.
Well I will start building and see what happens.
Well I have just got back from my LHS with a snake under my arm, I am still a little unsure of my decision (you are welcome to give support) of getting rid of my r40 and buy a 710.
Well I will start building and see what happens.