Serpent 710
#2251
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
What is so advance about it? Hard to build? You should have built the ones that come with the Impulse Streetspec / Impulse PRO ! If you pass on the first try, it will make you an instant shock expert builder !
But seriously, they are one of the best around. Imagine that you can adjust externally the setting of the shocks without even taking the shocks apart to change piston holes... Just like the external rear / front ball diffs.
What is so advance about it? Hard to build? You should have built the ones that come with the Impulse Streetspec / Impulse PRO ! If you pass on the first try, it will make you an instant shock expert builder !
But seriously, they are one of the best around. Imagine that you can adjust externally the setting of the shocks without even taking the shocks apart to change piston holes... Just like the external rear / front ball diffs.
You'll have to tell me when the bubbles in the oil are gone though!
#2252
Tech Regular
busted futaba plastic gear
ahhhh my futaba 9451 steering servo broke today in my first tank... a busted plastic gear.. this thing (gear) is impossible to find here in Hong Kong, I am forced to use KO2144 plastic gear... Anyone had experience with this? ( I was told that the 2144 plastic gear has one less tooth than the 9451)
Also, my 705 looks like SHIT everytime after running... I think it leaks between the engine and the manifold... (that plastic gasket is crap!) Anyway, is there a way to make the gasket more full proof?
Also, my 705 looks like SHIT everytime after running... I think it leaks between the engine and the manifold... (that plastic gasket is crap!) Anyway, is there a way to make the gasket more full proof?
#2253
Tech Regular
Re: Re: Mugen MTX-3 or Serpent 710?
Originally posted by Pyramid
Rumors has said Mugen will release the newer Mtx next year.. probably on spring.
All cars basically is the same, good one will be a good balance car which you could easly judge by laying them all together and see which one will be more balance for you and why? Durability will come next for judgement (for me at least). Do remember, balance is in close relathionship or equal to weight. A car with engine mounted will have different weight as also a car with `fuel` loaded or unloaded. Sure, aside from which one you think is a better balance one, the most important is will you be able to easly get parts for it?
Rumors has said Mugen will release the newer Mtx next year.. probably on spring.
All cars basically is the same, good one will be a good balance car which you could easly judge by laying them all together and see which one will be more balance for you and why? Durability will come next for judgement (for me at least). Do remember, balance is in close relathionship or equal to weight. A car with engine mounted will have different weight as also a car with `fuel` loaded or unloaded. Sure, aside from which one you think is a better balance one, the most important is will you be able to easly get parts for it?
I am considering getting OUT of the snake camp, mainly because of POOR customer services from the LHS that carry serpent parts.
#2254
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Having broken over 20 front shock shaft. I can now build serpent shocks with my eyes closed!!
Having broken over 20 front shock shaft. I can now build serpent shocks with my eyes closed!!
Originally posted by lawndoggie
You'll have to tell me when the bubbles in the oil are gone though!
You'll have to tell me when the bubbles in the oil are gone though!
Also, when you do this, make sure the cap holding the o ring at the bottom of the shaft is clicked securely in. If not, air will come in from here.
#2255
Tech Adept
Re: Re: Mugen MTX-3 or Serpent 710?
Originally posted by Pyramid
Rumors has said Mugen will release the newer Mtx next year.. probably on spring.
Rumors has said Mugen will release the newer Mtx next year.. probably on spring.
In Europe a kit is already released including 4mm chassis, front universals, 2.5 anti-roll bar, body, x12 (ns12) engine with polished inline pipe set + the original chassis, dog bones and anti-roll bar. This is not the works kit, since it is composed by the European importer of Mugen, MID, and not by Mugenseiki Japan.
#2256
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
D, is that a trick question?
D, is that a trick question?
But seriously, did you talk to him about the car and if indeed he used the stoock settings? Any changes made to the car?
#2257
Re: busted futaba plastic gear
Originally posted by lawndoggie
I am forced to use KO2144 plastic gear... Anyone had experience with this? ( I was told that the 2144 plastic gear has one less tooth than the 9451)
I am forced to use KO2144 plastic gear... Anyone had experience with this? ( I was told that the 2144 plastic gear has one less tooth than the 9451)
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Also, my 705 looks like SHIT everytime after running... I think it leaks between the engine and the manifold... (that plastic gasket is crap!) Anyway, is there a way to make the gasket more full proof?
Also, my 705 looks like SHIT everytime after running... I think it leaks between the engine and the manifold... (that plastic gasket is crap!) Anyway, is there a way to make the gasket more full proof?
#2258
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Master D can kick Salven's ass with an OS engine!!
Master D can kick Salven's ass with an OS engine!!
Originally posted by lawndoggie
and some CA glue on Salven's steering servo.....
and some CA glue on Salven's steering servo.....
#2259
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
ROTFLMAO !
Seriously, you need to be patient on this one. What I do is I SLOWLY push the shock shaft up and down after I fill the shock oil in. Be careful NOT to induce bubbles by forcing the shock shaft up and down with force. Turn the shock shaft while pushing it slowly up and down. Let it settle after a while till no bubbles come out.
Also, when you do this, make sure the cap holding the o ring at the bottom of the shaft is clicked securely in. If not, air will come in from here.
ROTFLMAO !
Seriously, you need to be patient on this one. What I do is I SLOWLY push the shock shaft up and down after I fill the shock oil in. Be careful NOT to induce bubbles by forcing the shock shaft up and down with force. Turn the shock shaft while pushing it slowly up and down. Let it settle after a while till no bubbles come out.
Also, when you do this, make sure the cap holding the o ring at the bottom of the shaft is clicked securely in. If not, air will come in from here.
1. Don't fill the shock with the oil, just enough were the piston is fully covered (1/4 full).
2. Tilt the shock body so that when you pull the piston up and down (slowly), there's one big bubble that goes out of one of the holes in the piston. The bubbles rises up faster than having the shock filled up with the oil.
3. Once you see no more bubbles, it's now time to fill it up and do the normal procedure.
Hope this makes sense.
#2260
Originally posted by nad138
What I've learnt from building shocks on my off-road buggies and trucks are the following, I'm not sure if this also holds true in this case as I haven't built a serpent shock yet (NTC3 was my first tourer) :
1. Don't fill the shock with the oil, just enough were the piston is fully covered (1/4 full).
2. Tilt the shock body so that when you pull the piston up and down (slowly), there's one big bubble that goes out of one of the holes in the piston. The bubbles rises up faster than having the shock filled up with the oil.
3. Once you see no more bubbles, it's now time to fill it up and do the normal procedure.
Hope this makes sense.
What I've learnt from building shocks on my off-road buggies and trucks are the following, I'm not sure if this also holds true in this case as I haven't built a serpent shock yet (NTC3 was my first tourer) :
1. Don't fill the shock with the oil, just enough were the piston is fully covered (1/4 full).
2. Tilt the shock body so that when you pull the piston up and down (slowly), there's one big bubble that goes out of one of the holes in the piston. The bubbles rises up faster than having the shock filled up with the oil.
3. Once you see no more bubbles, it's now time to fill it up and do the normal procedure.
Hope this makes sense.
#2261
Originally posted by InitialD
Nope. It's the 2104TMS.
Nope. It's the 2104TMS.
#2262
Tech Initiate
MGs Race report
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool ! You got to rub shoulders with Mark Green?
Do you happen to know if he used the stock settings?
Cool ! You got to rub shoulders with Mark Green?
Do you happen to know if he used the stock settings?
#2263
Tech Initiate
REmoving air from shocks
Originally posted by InitialD
Cool. I'll keep these tips handy the next time I rebuild my shocks.
Cool. I'll keep these tips handy the next time I rebuild my shocks.
http://www.rc-ride.co.jp/eng/docs/rp600.html
#2264
Originally posted by InitialD
But seriously, did you talk to him about the car and if indeed he used the stoock settings? Any changes made to the car?
But seriously, did you talk to him about the car and if indeed he used the stoock settings? Any changes made to the car?
In the end though he just messed around with the ride height, roll-centers and camber ... at least, that was all I saw when I arrived ... I was too late to join the race
Other than that he used the new Volvo body. Tried the Stratus but went back to the Volvo. tyres were stock but trued down, no splits.
If I remember anything else I'll PM you
#2265
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
How does that Shark pipe perform D compared to a matched pipe/engine combo?
How does that Shark pipe perform D compared to a matched pipe/engine combo?