Conrod in D5 interchangeable with the s5 or s3??
11-04-2003, 07:59 PM
#31
Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks for the info prawntoe. You're the STS engine expert !
Ummm, the front end bearing (and hence crankshaft) of the D5 and D3 are not interchangeable then?
Thanks for the info prawntoe. You're the STS engine expert !
Ummm, the front end bearing (and hence crankshaft) of the D5 and D3 are not interchangeable then?
I reread your msg. .
I meant to say 7mm/7.5mm BORE as Stefan mentioned.
sorry.
11-04-2003, 08:07 PM
#32
Originally posted by prawntoe
internal dimension of the bore is different (outlaw vs legal) but external dimension of RS/D3/D5 are the same, thus they are interchangeable.
internal dimension of the bore is different (outlaw vs legal) but external dimension of RS/D3/D5 are the same, thus they are interchangeable.
Originally posted by prawntoe
12mm ID bearings (internal) are ISO standard, therefore can be replaced with standard bearings. . .
12mm ID bearings (internal) are ISO standard, therefore can be replaced with standard bearings. . .
Originally posted by prawntoe
front bearings should be the same and interchangeable with Nova based engines.
front bearings should be the same and interchangeable with Nova based engines.
11-04-2003, 08:21 PM
#33
Re: DRAGON conrod
Originally posted by smartdriver
Well,I broke my Dragon in as per the sheet and had my first race with it and now the conrod is worn out and the piston has some ugly discolorations in one spot on the sleeve.My engine didnt come with an extra rod
so I guess I have to buy another one.....
By the way Im not some kid who doesnt know what he is doing.
not happy at all......Guess I need to stick with Novarossi based stuff....
Well,I broke my Dragon in as per the sheet and had my first race with it and now the conrod is worn out and the piston has some ugly discolorations in one spot on the sleeve.My engine didnt come with an extra rod
so I guess I have to buy another one.....
By the way Im not some kid who doesnt know what he is doing.
not happy at all......Guess I need to stick with Novarossi based stuff....
Oh~~It's my trouble.
Well,Dear SmartDriver,
Please let me know some question;
1)How many fuel have through this engine?
2)Please measure the crankpin size and conrod bushing then let me know.
Fron your statement,your engine is a bit too lean.
When you see some ugly discolorations on the sleeve or piston,that means your engine temp. was about more than 280F.
11-04-2003, 08:24 PM
#34
[i]Yes, that is correct. The "older" non NS Novas that is... [/B]
[/B]
only the internal bearing is different (ID 11mm vs 11.5mm).
11-04-2003, 08:34 PM
#35
Originally posted by prawntoe
Never measure one myself but I think the front bearing for both ns12S(x) should be same as "old Nova" ??
only the internal bearing is different (ID 11mm vs 11.5mm).
Never measure one myself but I think the front bearing for both ns12S(x) should be same as "old Nova" ??
only the internal bearing is different (ID 11mm vs 11.5mm).
11-04-2003, 09:33 PM
#36
Originally posted by InitialD
Front bearing is 7x17x5 and inner bearing is 11.5x21x5 for the NS. For the "older" RS, the front bearing is 7x19x6 while the inner bearing is 11x21x5.
Front bearing is 7x17x5 and inner bearing is 11.5x21x5 for the NS. For the "older" RS, the front bearing is 7x19x6 while the inner bearing is 11x21x5.
11-04-2003, 09:43 PM
#37
Novarossi expert? 
Naah... Novarossi sponsored would be nice !
Naah... Novarossi sponsored would be nice !
11-05-2003, 03:37 AM
#38
Re: Re: DRAGON conrod
Originally posted by dino.tw
Anyone unhappy? Oh~~It's my trouble.
Well,Dear SmartDriver,
Please let me know some question;
1)How many fuel have through this engine?
2)Please measure the crankpin size and conrod bushing then let me know.
Fron your statement,your engine is a bit too lean.
When you see some ugly discolorations on the sleeve or piston,that means your engine temp. was about more than 280F.
Anyone unhappy?
Oh~~It's my trouble. Well,Dear SmartDriver,
Please let me know some question;
1)How many fuel have through this engine?
2)Please measure the crankpin size and conrod bushing then let me know.
Fron your statement,your engine is a bit too lean.
When you see some ugly discolorations on the sleeve or piston,that means your engine temp. was about more than 280F.
the engine never got hot.
I checked and adjusted his D5 before and after each run and the temp never went over 230 degrees.
So, what's your alternative theory.
Oh, and btw, you are correct, if your customers are unhappy, you are in trouble. No need for dumb "smileys" in that statement.
11-05-2003, 04:53 AM
#39
It is good to see people from the industry to provide users support. I wonder if Dino is either being stupid enough to let unhappy user to shout at or he tries to help people out here. think about it.
11-05-2003, 06:44 AM
#40
Tech Apprentice
Well, my personal opinion is that it's definately value for money as I have used both RS5 and now the D5.
We used to see Dino sounding quite apologetic every other day when RS5s were giving alot of problems but nowadays with the D5 he sounds more relaxed :-) and surely alot less complains from users. so that's surely a sign of quality improvement.
My D5 was able to give the Rodys a good run for the money. .
ed
We used to see Dino sounding quite apologetic every other day when RS5s were giving alot of problems but nowadays with the D5 he sounds more relaxed :-) and surely alot less complains from users. so that's surely a sign of quality improvement.
My D5 was able to give the Rodys a good run for the money. .
ed
Originally posted by stefan
I have not seen smart drivers conrod after last weekend, so I cannot comment on that, but what I can say is, that I was not very impressed with the power it made.
I'm used to fast modifieds like Murnan's and my own ones and the D5 felt rather average on the track.
I drove smarty's car in the main (because the whimp had a headache
) and wasn't impressed at all.
We were both thinking about replacing the 6.5 mm carb with a 5.5mm Nova Rossi carb.
I'm going to brak in my D3 soon and I will watch the rod closely and report.
I have not seen smart drivers conrod after last weekend, so I cannot comment on that, but what I can say is, that I was not very impressed with the power it made.
I'm used to fast modifieds like Murnan's and my own ones and the D5 felt rather average on the track.
I drove smarty's car in the main (because the whimp had a headache
) and wasn't impressed at all.We were both thinking about replacing the 6.5 mm carb with a 5.5mm Nova Rossi carb.
I'm going to brak in my D3 soon and I will watch the rod closely and report.
11-05-2003, 07:18 AM
#41
Well,
I'm gonna go ahead and lay my Money down if nothing else I know these guys have great customer service and if I have any probs they will be on it. That makes it worthwhile for me. I know I won't be pushing any limits on it for quite awhile anyways. What confused me on the Cranksize issue was the advertised crank spec. 7mm for the D3 and 7.5 for the D5 where all the other motors advertise a differant crank spec of 11.5 mm. I didn't notice that they were talking about 2 entirely differant measurements.Thank you for your patience in my research.
I'm gonna go ahead and lay my Money down if nothing else I know these guys have great customer service and if I have any probs they will be on it. That makes it worthwhile for me. I know I won't be pushing any limits on it for quite awhile anyways. What confused me on the Cranksize issue was the advertised crank spec. 7mm for the D3 and 7.5 for the D5 where all the other motors advertise a differant crank spec of 11.5 mm. I didn't notice that they were talking about 2 entirely differant measurements.Thank you for your patience in my research.
11-05-2003, 08:20 AM
#42
First I have to thank you for all of your support.I'm sorry if I let you feel bad.For those smileys,I just want to let you know that I care about you.There is no malice.Please treat me as a friend although I'm working for STS.It hard for me to help smartracer by only a few statement.I really want to help but I need more details.
11-05-2003, 09:48 AM
#43
By the way,this afternoon I went to track and tuning the D5 engine for a customer.Because he never tune it well and want to change a new one.I checked all the internal parts and found there is no any wrong.So I thought the problem is on tuning.I drove about 30km to the track and tuned the engine for him because I do care.Let me tall you what I do.
First I found his engine is easy to die out on low-mid revs.His car is LD3 with RDLogic pipe.As my experience with this RDLogic pipe for NTC3/LD3,I made the pressure-line about 27cm.It's better now but still easy to die out.
Then I rich the low-speed needle for cooling and tuning the 2-speed for him.Because its 2-speed is too fast and make him feel that there is no punch,so he leaned the low-speed needle very much.I make the low-speed needle about 5 turn out,and check his car carefully.I found his throttle can't open fully,asking him to adjust the radio system.Also put 2x o-rings under the fuel tank for him to reduce shock.Now the car was better and better,but when he stay for a while and full throttle suddenly the engine still die out.
The last step I decided to advance the ignition timing.I take out 0.2mm head shim,only keep the 0.3mm silver head shim.Well,everything is perfect now.It seems D5 requires lesser head shims.The engine is very fast(250F).Never die out no matter how he play and has stable idle.I can see the smile on his face now,but you know what?I'm happier than him.Your smile is mine smile.
Maybe I should fly to LA to tune the engines for you.My sister lives in Alhambra.
First I found his engine is easy to die out on low-mid revs.His car is LD3 with RDLogic pipe.As my experience with this RDLogic pipe for NTC3/LD3,I made the pressure-line about 27cm.It's better now but still easy to die out.
Then I rich the low-speed needle for cooling and tuning the 2-speed for him.Because its 2-speed is too fast and make him feel that there is no punch,so he leaned the low-speed needle very much.I make the low-speed needle about 5 turn out,and check his car carefully.I found his throttle can't open fully,asking him to adjust the radio system.Also put 2x o-rings under the fuel tank for him to reduce shock.Now the car was better and better,but when he stay for a while and full throttle suddenly the engine still die out.
The last step I decided to advance the ignition timing.I take out 0.2mm head shim,only keep the 0.3mm silver head shim.Well,everything is perfect now.It seems D5 requires lesser head shims.The engine is very fast(250F).Never die out no matter how he play and has stable idle.I can see the smile on his face now,but you know what?I'm happier than him.Your smile is mine smile.
Maybe I should fly to LA to tune the engines for you.My sister lives in Alhambra.
11-05-2003, 09:57 AM
#44
Re: Re: Re: DRAGON conrod
Originally posted by stefan
Dino,
the engine never got hot.
I checked and adjusted his D5 before and after each run and the temp never went over 230 degrees.
So, what's your alternative theory.
Oh, and btw, you are correct, if your customers are unhappy, you are in trouble. No need for dumb "smileys" in that statement.
Dino,
the engine never got hot.
I checked and adjusted his D5 before and after each run and the temp never went over 230 degrees.
So, what's your alternative theory.
Oh, and btw, you are correct, if your customers are unhappy, you are in trouble. No need for dumb "smileys" in that statement.
I presume that most of you are very experienced rc car hobbyists (so it appears). So you should know that conrod bushings will wear more during breaking and run in process and sometimes will need to be replaced. It's recommended by any experienced drivers to replace the conrod after break in or maybe after 1 gallon. Just change the conrod. I'm sure there's always a couple of bad eggs in the basket - so that may be the case. Again, just change the conrod - what's the big deal? Maybe the engine has not fully broken in yet that's why it didnt' perform at its optimal. Bottom line, there's alot of variables and assumptions here. All in all, take a look at how much you PAID for the engine.....
G
11-05-2003, 10:08 AM
#45
Dino,
It's nice to know that you are so passionate about satisfying your customers. But it's hard because there are so many variables or possibilities involved here...and on top of that, there are going to be people complaining no matter what! That's just the nature of teh beast.
You just can't beat bang for the buck when it comes to STS engines.
G
It's nice to know that you are so passionate about satisfying your customers. But it's hard because there are so many variables or possibilities involved here...and on top of that, there are going to be people complaining no matter what! That's just the nature of teh beast.
You just can't beat bang for the buck when it comes to STS engines.
G
Originally posted by dino.tw
By the way,this afternoon I went to track and tuning the D5 engine for a customer.Because he never tune it well and want to change a new one.I checked all the internal parts and found there is no any wrong.So I thought the problem is on tuning.I drove about 30km to the track and tuned the engine for him because I do care.Let me tall you what I do.
First I found his engine is easy to die out on low-mid revs.His car is LD3 with RDLogic pipe.As my experience with this RDLogic pipe for NTC3/LD3,I made the pressure-line about 27cm.It's better now but still easy to die out.
Then I rich the low-speed needle for cooling and tuning the 2-speed for him.Because its 2-speed is too fast and make him feel that there is no punch,so he leaned the low-speed needle very much.I make the low-speed needle about 5 turn out,and check his car carefully.I found his throttle can't open fully,asking him to adjust the radio system.Also put 2x o-rings under the fuel tank for him to reduce shock.Now the car was better and better,but when he stay for a while and full throttle suddenly the engine still die out.
The last step I decided to advance the ignition timing.I take out 0.2mm head shim,only keep the 0.3mm silver head shim.Well,everything is perfect now.It seems D5 requires lesser head shims.The engine is very fast(250F).Never die out no matter how he play and has stable idle.I can see the smile on his face now,but you know what?I'm happier than him.Your smile is mine smile.
Maybe I should fly to LA to tune the engines for you.My sister lives in Alhambra.
By the way,this afternoon I went to track and tuning the D5 engine for a customer.Because he never tune it well and want to change a new one.I checked all the internal parts and found there is no any wrong.So I thought the problem is on tuning.I drove about 30km to the track and tuned the engine for him because I do care.Let me tall you what I do.
First I found his engine is easy to die out on low-mid revs.His car is LD3 with RDLogic pipe.As my experience with this RDLogic pipe for NTC3/LD3,I made the pressure-line about 27cm.It's better now but still easy to die out.
Then I rich the low-speed needle for cooling and tuning the 2-speed for him.Because its 2-speed is too fast and make him feel that there is no punch,so he leaned the low-speed needle very much.I make the low-speed needle about 5 turn out,and check his car carefully.I found his throttle can't open fully,asking him to adjust the radio system.Also put 2x o-rings under the fuel tank for him to reduce shock.Now the car was better and better,but when he stay for a while and full throttle suddenly the engine still die out.
The last step I decided to advance the ignition timing.I take out 0.2mm head shim,only keep the 0.3mm silver head shim.Well,everything is perfect now.It seems D5 requires lesser head shims.The engine is very fast(250F).Never die out no matter how he play and has stable idle.I can see the smile on his face now,but you know what?I'm happier than him.Your smile is mine smile.
Maybe I should fly to LA to tune the engines for you.My sister lives in Alhambra.