Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2
05-19-2009, 04:28 PM
#1127
oh yeah forgot to mention i've used the castor clip (the tool with the hook on the end for the header springs), didn't feel at ease, and don't have a nice allen wrench to fit in the hole, but i have tried the body clip which i figured that on my own and works perfect in the meantime
NOTE TO SELF, don't curse the setup of your car when your understeering on the track...REMEMBER TO TAKE THE BODY CLIP OUT of the front toe hole.
NOTE TO SELF, don't curse the setup of your car when your understeering on the track...REMEMBER TO TAKE THE BODY CLIP OUT of the front toe hole.
05-19-2009, 04:32 PM
#1128
Tech Regular
would anyone happen to know what to what gears to use for the sugar bowl in georgia?
05-19-2009, 08:43 PM
#1131
It has been over 2 years since I built mine so I am sure I am forgetting some stuff: Get two rear shock towers, and glue them together. Run that doubled up version on your car. I also use RTV blue to seal my diffs. Some people say they never have leaking issues, but mine did so now all my diffs are sealed with RTV. When screwing the rear shock tower to the car, use a very long screw. When attaching the rear camber link to the rear hub carrier, use a longer screw than what the manual says. If I remember more I will say and my guess is that others will chime in as well.
05-19-2009, 09:39 PM
#1132
05-19-2009, 10:07 PM
#1133
Must have hopups? Probably not, but there are benefits to some of the hopups. I don't know if your car came with CVD's but if it didn't, I would run them in the front. For racing applications, if you run a spool, the YBSLOW front spool is less than half the weight of the steel spool. I wouldn't use it all the time as it will wear more quickly, but when you are serious that is the time to go for it. I really like the convenience of clamping wheel hexes. I use the ones made for the Team Magic G4. The Kyosho SP belts free up your drivetrain quite a bit. APP brake pads are a good upgrade. I would also pick up some steel pinions (at least first gear pinions).
05-20-2009, 07:56 AM
#1134
i change the front drive without disassembling the radio plate.
i just unscrew the middle axle unit and take of the steering rod.
it is quicker!
i just unscrew the middle axle unit and take of the steering rod.
it is quicker!
05-20-2009, 12:26 PM
#1135
Must have hopups? Probably not, but there are benefits to some of the hopups. I don't know if your car came with CVD's but if it didn't, I would run them in the front. For racing applications, if you run a spool, the YBSLOW front spool is less than half the weight of the steel spool. I wouldn't use it all the time as it will wear more quickly, but when you are serious that is the time to go for it. I really like the convenience of clamping wheel hexes. I use the ones made for the Team Magic G4. The Kyosho SP belts free up your drivetrain quite a bit. APP brake pads are a good upgrade. I would also pick up some steel pinions (at least first gear pinions).
05-20-2009, 06:33 PM
#1136
Hi Mate,
The front/rear housing comes together in a set.
They use the same bevel gears, but use different outdrives (VZ218 are the outdrives used for the front Diff)
You also need to use the older servo ackerman arms (they come standard in the EVO2 kit)
Also, you need to use ball ends on the ackerman to prevent it rubbing with the diff.
To be honest, it took some time for me to get the diff into my EVO2, and working fine.
I only got to test it once at Moorebank with 100k oil, but I must say the car did feel much easier to drive, and I am sure with a few minor tweaks and an adjustment to my driving style (going from solid to diff) the car would be quicker.
Check this topic a few pages back, someone posted the parts required.
The front/rear housing comes together in a set.
They use the same bevel gears, but use different outdrives (VZ218 are the outdrives used for the front Diff)
You also need to use the older servo ackerman arms (they come standard in the EVO2 kit)
Also, you need to use ball ends on the ackerman to prevent it rubbing with the diff.
To be honest, it took some time for me to get the diff into my EVO2, and working fine.
I only got to test it once at Moorebank with 100k oil, but I must say the car did feel much easier to drive, and I am sure with a few minor tweaks and an adjustment to my driving style (going from solid to diff) the car would be quicker.
Check this topic a few pages back, someone posted the parts required.
05-20-2009, 09:22 PM
#1139