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Old 07-09-2011, 07:35 PM   #6931
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If I can't have a real one...
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:48 PM   #6932
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looking real good gashuffer
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:19 PM   #6933
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Had a national race today on a rather twisty track, I experimented 1.1 springs on my IGT2 3-shoe clutch but 1.0 was easier to drive. I run the Audi body. I bumped up from the B-main finishing sixth overall. Winner IGT2 and 3 others in top 6 2nd and 3rd being DM-1s. My Kyosho friend run Corvette with stock GT2 GXR28 motor and the Kyosho rear pipe finishing 4th overall, incredible
It was fun though my car's setup wasn't exactly what I wanted, I think the shorter GT1 chassis would have been actually better, but loved the way Audi looked on this smaller & twistier road course Real DTM
I started with 14/17 gearing and later changed to the 15/19. I think I should have kept the shorter because I seemed to be spending less fuel and it was plenty fast, but had some issue shimming it on the motor axle, so I kept the 15/19 to the end of the race.
B5 was nice but somehow lost it's best peak in final (from the beginnig of it). Don't know why. Well, I was able to finish without flame outs so it was ok, but the mid power wasn't just good enough this time. Need to play with it once I get the new conrod for it.
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:29 AM   #6934
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A gallery from the race http://bitery.net/raisio/#/content/Kaikki%20kuvat/

Over 400 photos, please enjoy ;-)
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:02 PM   #6935
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A gallery from the race http://bitery.net/raisio/#/content/Kaikki%20kuvat/

Over 400 photos, please enjoy ;-)


Very nice !!
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:14 PM   #6936
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Thanks Did you see the loose tire running around the track on pic 5255-5258, funny eh?!
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Old 07-12-2011, 02:00 PM   #6937
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Thanks Did you see the loose tire running around the track on pic 5255-5258, funny eh?!

LOL, those GT Tires are so fast that they dont need a car to race !! lol !!

Nice pics man ...

Would be great if you can make it to PERU next year (i think February again) for the "Copa del Pacifico" race ...
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Old 07-12-2011, 02:04 PM   #6938
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LOL ;D

I would love to come, thanks Pato
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Old 07-12-2011, 02:33 PM   #6939
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Guys this is from a friend from PERU.

He is going very good on GT racing, using a DM SPEC chassis.

The thing is that he has been breaking 2-3 diffs on the last 2 races ... last weekend he got TQ and was racing strong on A-Main (triple 15 minutes structure a-main) and he broke rear diff "once again".

So, he emailed me asking for internal replacements other than the ofna ones, but i dont have any idea as this problem is new to me ...

ANY INFO ?

thanks
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:18 PM   #6940
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Originally Posted by Tabushi View Post
Guys this is from a friend from PERU.

He is going very good on GT racing, using a DM SPEC chassis.

The thing is that he has been breaking 2-3 diffs on the last 2 races ... last weekend he got TQ and was racing strong on A-Main (triple 15 minutes structure a-main) and he broke rear diff "once again".

So, he emailed me asking for internal replacements other than the ofna ones, but i dont have any idea as this problem is new to me ...

ANY INFO ?

thanks
I'm going on 2 1/2 years on my DM-1 and have not had gear issues, other than when I left the loctite off the motor screws. Maybe he can post a picture of what broke. We are talking the steel gears inside the diff or the ring and pinion. If the ring and pinion, time to check the bearings and shafts for wear.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:46 PM   #6941
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Put the kyosho gears in and know more problem, serious. Direct fit.
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:51 PM   #6942
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Make sure to check all the differential bearings, and that all appropriate shims are in place. If he's stripping out the bevel gears inside the diffs, make sure that
all the shims are in place on the cross pins.

Also check the shims for the mesh of the ring and pinion.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:14 PM   #6943
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Pato I have used the Jammin (DM-1) diffs for a very long time. Most problems have to deal with improper screw adjustment. If the diff cup is worn the screws can get loose causing improper mesh i the gears inside and therefore diff problems. When this happens the temps go up and can deform the diff cup causing more trouble even with new gears inside. He must change the diff cup (case) and install new internal gears. Also measure the shims inside the diff and he can use 2 on each side (this is on the inside of the cup) instead of only one shim like the instructions show. If it is the crown and ring gear this has to do with shimming. I have heard of people using HPI Savage gears wish are made of steel and should never need replacing but I haven't use them myself so I can't tell you that they fit (if they do fit please let us know).
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:45 PM   #6944
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Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
Had a national race today on a rather twisty track, I experimented 1.1 springs on my IGT2 3-shoe clutch but 1.0 was easier to drive. I run the Audi body. I bumped up from the B-main finishing sixth overall. Winner IGT2 and 3 others in top 6 2nd and 3rd being DM-1s. My Kyosho friend run Corvette with stock GT2 GXR28 motor and the Kyosho rear pipe finishing 4th overall, incredible
It was fun though my car's setup wasn't exactly what I wanted, I think the shorter GT1 chassis would have been actually better, but loved the way Audi looked on this smaller & twistier road course Real DTM
I started with 14/17 gearing and later changed to the 15/19. I think I should have kept the shorter because I seemed to be spending less fuel and it was plenty fast, but had some issue shimming it on the motor axle, so I kept the 15/19 to the end of the race.
B5 was nice but somehow lost it's best peak in final (from the beginnig of it). Don't know why. Well, I was able to finish without flame outs so it was ok, but the mid power wasn't just good enough this time. Need to play with it once I get the new conrod for it.
I run the Audi body for the same reason...expensive....but it does handle pretty well...
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Old 07-12-2011, 08:28 PM   #6945
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ive seen on ur website but they say outta stock...does that mean u/i just order it anyway?
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