1/8th scale Motonica
05-28-2009, 09:11 AM
#1366
Hey Garen or Arno, I have noticed that I have recently started having problems with my servo mounting screws are coming loose! I know the screws terminate into plastic, and I do use rubber grommets for my servos to minimize interference from the vibration, but I have recently started noticing my screws are coming loose! Have either of you had this issue as well?
It is troubling me a bit. I may try longer screws to remedy this. Also, are there any good servo arms (aluminum or plastic) that you guys recommend using?
It is troubling me a bit. I may try longer screws to remedy this. Also, are there any good servo arms (aluminum or plastic) that you guys recommend using?
05-31-2009, 04:36 AM
#1368
First Run Today
Hi Guys,
Ran the car today for the first time, very impressive. The balance of the car feels very good, stable with very good turn in. Credit to Motonica on the geometry.
For those that are not keen on the exposed receiver, I also adapted the Mugen MTX-4 cover to give a bit more protection, picture as per below.
Regards
Kyle
Ran the car today for the first time, very impressive. The balance of the car feels very good, stable with very good turn in. Credit to Motonica on the geometry.
For those that are not keen on the exposed receiver, I also adapted the Mugen MTX-4 cover to give a bit more protection, picture as per below.
Regards
Kyle
06-08-2009, 09:21 AM
#1370
No problem; tank is quite easy to build once you figure it out...
The monobloc engine mount and adjustable blade rear sway bar are finally ready and will be shipped this week.
Congrats to the Motonica team placing 2 cars in the A final at the Euro 'B' championships. http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=22100
The monobloc engine mount and adjustable blade rear sway bar are finally ready and will be shipped this week.
Congrats to the Motonica team placing 2 cars in the A final at the Euro 'B' championships. http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=22100
06-08-2009, 04:46 PM
#1372
The only special clutch tool I can think of is one of those round spring nut tightening tools, I think Kyosho makes one, not sure who else.
Not sure if you can fit a lp KO servo under the throttle servo mounts. My standard size Airtronics servos already sit pretty low and they are installed above the mounts.
If you have owned any other 1/8th car, then I can't think of any special tools you might still need to get. If not, then get yourself a good quality set of r/c tools (Hudy, etc), you'll need 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 2.5B, 3.0, flat head screwdriver for tuning, a couple of different size needle nose pliers, caster clip tool (hook), set up fixtures/tools, calipers, dremel.
Be sure to check out the support page of www.motonica-usa.com and if you have any questions, post here or email [email protected]
Not sure if you can fit a lp KO servo under the throttle servo mounts. My standard size Airtronics servos already sit pretty low and they are installed above the mounts.
If you have owned any other 1/8th car, then I can't think of any special tools you might still need to get. If not, then get yourself a good quality set of r/c tools (Hudy, etc), you'll need 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 2.5B, 3.0, flat head screwdriver for tuning, a couple of different size needle nose pliers, caster clip tool (hook), set up fixtures/tools, calipers, dremel.
Be sure to check out the support page of www.motonica-usa.com and if you have any questions, post here or email [email protected]
06-09-2009, 10:47 AM
#1373
on the steering linkages, servo saver, etc does it matter which side of the plastic the pivot balls are pressed in?
when gluing the brake pad do you cover the entire side of plate with pad or should it be cut in half circle to avoid holes as shown in manual?
also, can anyone recommend caliper brand/size?
thanks
when gluing the brake pad do you cover the entire side of plate with pad or should it be cut in half circle to avoid holes as shown in manual?
also, can anyone recommend caliper brand/size?
thanks
06-09-2009, 11:33 AM
#1374
Yes, all the ball ends have one side slightly bigger than the other. Look carefully/closely and you'll see the bigger side.
I cut the brake pads as to avoid the holes. You don't have to cut them in a perfect semi circle as shown in the manual, but try to avoid the holes. Also, be sure to glue the brake caliper pins into the right bulkhead- this is a precautionary measure.
Go to Harbor Freight tools, they have digital calipers for cheap. No need to get one larger than 100mm's or so.
I cut the brake pads as to avoid the holes. You don't have to cut them in a perfect semi circle as shown in the manual, but try to avoid the holes. Also, be sure to glue the brake caliper pins into the right bulkhead- this is a precautionary measure.
Go to Harbor Freight tools, they have digital calipers for cheap. No need to get one larger than 100mm's or so.
06-10-2009, 01:57 AM
#1375
My kit is slowly getting ready.
I installed my receiver in the following way:
I used this receiver box:
http://www.rmv-deutschland.de
I installed my receiver in the following way:
I used this receiver box:
http://www.rmv-deutschland.de
06-11-2009, 12:23 PM
#1378
shocks
could someone briefly summarize shock build?
i threaded post until threads didnt show above plastic ball end. all else is fine but not sure how to properly seat the flange on the diaphragm into the aluminum cap?
also share basic steps for inserting oil and removing bubbles.
sorry for basic questions...
i threaded post until threads didnt show above plastic ball end. all else is fine but not sure how to properly seat the flange on the diaphragm into the aluminum cap?
also share basic steps for inserting oil and removing bubbles.
sorry for basic questions...
06-11-2009, 05:29 PM
#1379
Download the assembly tips file from the support page of motonica-usa.com, it will help you a bunch.
Thread the shock ends until the threads don't show, and measure the gap between the end of the shock end and bottom of the shock body; make sure they are the same.
Place the plastic piece in the aluminum ring. Drop some oil in there and gently push the bladder into place in a circular motion. You can use a dull tip to do this.
Push the piston in about 1/4 of the way. Start filling the oil until about 1/2 way. Pull the piston down and continue to fill with oil. Push the piston in and out a couple of times and allow the shock to sit until all the air comes out.
Thread the shock ends until the threads don't show, and measure the gap between the end of the shock end and bottom of the shock body; make sure they are the same.
Place the plastic piece in the aluminum ring. Drop some oil in there and gently push the bladder into place in a circular motion. You can use a dull tip to do this.
Push the piston in about 1/4 of the way. Start filling the oil until about 1/2 way. Pull the piston down and continue to fill with oil. Push the piston in and out a couple of times and allow the shock to sit until all the air comes out.
