sundevil67

Hi All,
I ponied up the extra $$ and bought the Kyosho Multi Starter Box 2.0, the one recommended by Kyosho in the manual. I even ordered one of those mounting templates from Europe somewhere (in transit). I still can't seem to get consistent access to the flywheel, and end up just rubbing the wheel on the chassis for the most part. It is just too shallow (the flywheel seems to sit too high and doesn't poke through the chassis enough to make good contact. I don't see any way to actually adjust the flywheel so that it will poke through the chassis further, but something must be wrong here. Admittedly I don't have much (any) real experience with starter boxes, but this can't be how this is supposed to work. It is sooo frustrating to have spent all of this time and money, and still be unable to run my Spada! I know there's an aluminum flywheel offered as an optional part, but is that just the same size, made from aluminum? Anyone else experience a similar problem? Can this just be a design flaw, and I need to figure out a workaround?

ANY HELP FOR NITRO-NOOB APPRECIATED!

sundevil67

OK, so I even found one of those foam pads that act as a "template" for the starter box. It helps a little, but the fact is that the flywheel is just recessed too deep into the chassis and this car is always going to be a pain in the ass to start. Anyone have any recommendations for installing a new starting system? Possible to retro-fit some type of pull-start system? Feel free to clown me for not knowing what I am doing, at least that would start a discussion!

sundevil67

Hey Everyone,
I know this thread is super-old, so forgive me for resurrecting it...but I have this exact same setup, and my Spada is so difficult to start, I am almost ready to give up on it. Even with the starter pad, it is so hard to get a decent contact with the flywheel, as it is almost completely recessed into the chassis. It is installed correctly, but wow, you have to have it in the exact perfect position in order to spin it. Even then, it is nearly impossible to start. I am tired of getting all of my gear together, getting out to a good parking lot, and then going home without driving a foot. Any tips/tricks to share?

Thanks!

1FastVW

It is a little tricky to start if you do not have the box aligned for it. That being said, i start mine with a mugen box set-up for 1/10 and 1/8 and i always get it started. I would ditch the pad as it is probably creating too much clearance between the flywheel and starter wheel.

sundevil67

The pad is actually quite helpful in getting it positioned properly...problem is that the wheel on the starter box shuts down when I press down too far, so it is this delicate balance...it has to be PERFECT. In this particular case, it looks like it was my glow plug not heating up enough. For some reason it fires up great when I'm at home getting ready, but when I get out to the lot, nada. I'm wondering if there is some alternative ... a way to ditch the starter box entirely and start this thing some other way. I wonder if anyone has ever done any mods like that....maybe incorporating something like that lovely Traxxas starting system.

Mr Nimrod

MATE YOU COULD TRY OPENING UP EACH END OF THE FLYWHEEL HOLE IN THE CHASSIS

Mr Nimrod

sorry mate didnt see caps lock on

sundevil67

Even though I have all of the recommended Kyosho equipment, starting this thing is still a nightmare. I find it much more likely to happen if I have it on a table as opposed to the ground (for some reason the angle makes a difference). I am spending more time recharging the batteries in my starter box than I am driving the thing. Anyone have any luck with a different sort of starting mechanism? I love this car but I am getting read to throw in the towel.

sundevil67

Do you mean actually carving up the chassis with a Dremel? I've considered that..though increasing the size of the opening in the chassis, the flywheel will still be a little too recessed I think....I dunno, I am just finding it hard to believe that in the stock configuration, it is this difficult to start. Also, something very strange I noticed tonight. While I seem to be able to start it while it's on my workbench, it is impossible to start while I have it on the ground and am bending over it. Something with the angle...I drove it out to a big open lot today and yesterday, and both times I couldn't start it. Inside the house, on my workbench, I started it right up...and then promptly lost a tire while driving it out front. ARg.

So let's say I can start it...anyone know how to increase the turning radius on this thing? I am used to 1/12 cars turning on a time, but this one has the radius of an 18-wheeler. Doesn't seem to be adjustable either...assuming I do find the wheel again! Any tips?

scary_jerry

i feel your pain but also had to chuckle in your 'play-by-play'. hope you found your wheel.
the tip on cutting clearance in the chassis pan is the one that worked for me...that and knowing that the smallest change in angle is going to hold up a start. i use a small folding table to give a chance to check alignment that 'leaning over' won't allow.
have you installed a flywheel with diameter smaller than original?
you have found there is a 'magic' alignment. good luck.

sundevil67

I haven't installed a different flywheel, but still....as someone who has been buying/using Kyosho products for a good 20 years now, I have never come across such an obvious design flaw. To add insult to injury, I totally couldn't find my wheel. Arg. I am going to take your word for it and take the Dremel to the chassis. What the hell...if I don't make this thing easier to start, I am never going to run it, so I may as well try that or just give up and sell it. I've also been searching for a good folding table that I can bring with me to the parking lot I want to run it in.

sundevil67

btw, do you have any pictures you can post of your chassis modifications?

Also, do you have the same complaint about the turning radius?

scary_jerry

I don't have a Spada but had to do the cut on the chassis for my Kyosho GT's. I hate to be reminded a what you are going through but it was the same scenario with tight clearances to get to the 'all-important' flywheel. I still have a couple of 'touchy' models, but i've got the cars on a 'first name' basis.

I'm actually using a triangle file now when i cut the groove. No pictures at the moment but picture 'flairing' the opening to closer match the arc of the starter wheel. /O\

On the steering, my first thought was 'end point adjustments' because that's what fixed my'18R' carpet racer steering....it was either 'wait for days' turn or 'whoa..what was that' turn.

sundevil67

Thanks for the tip...believe it or not, I am actually starting to liquify the wheel on the starter box. It is getting all gooey from continually rubbing the bottom of the chassis and heating up. The part I am trying to avoid is disassembling the entire car to cut the chassis properly. I am just really anxious to log some track time with this thing instead of more work-bench time. Sigh. The novelty of having a nitro-version of my old beloved Kyosho 1/12 is fading fast. As far as the turning radius is concerned, I'm thinking while i have the thing apart...maybe there is a system from another 1/12 that is close enough to retrofit.

BTW, one of my neighbors was kind enough to leave my wheel on top of the mailbox! So at least I won't have to order another one of those

sundevil67

Anyone tried out the aluminum flywheel? It looks like it is the same size, only lighter (and blue), but I wonder if there's any reason why that would make it easier to start.

Thanks.