olev

The aluminium shaft wears out where it contacts the lower edge of the brake pad, allowing it to raise up too much. Change the shaft and you're back in business.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

As a follow-up, my second gear stripping problem was contributed to the bearing in the two-speed housing. The bearing that Mugen uses is a cheap, metal-shielded one instead of a rubber-shielded one. I was able to press the bearing out of the housing (without damaging it) and press a better one into it (if you can find a ceramic bearing, use it). The bearing size is 6mm x 13mm x 5mm. Acer or Boca would be good replacement bearings as well. Just be careful pressing it back into the housing as not to damage the bearing or housing. Just lightly oil it after a few runs and this may solve a lot of the stripping problems that some are having (that aren't chassis-flex related).

Juan

Seisick

make sure theres no flex in the chasis due to a loose screw and the most important
align the gear mesh with just the 2 speed making sure theres full contact and
give as little gap as possible between the 2 speed housing and the 2 speed shoes (i use hpi 3.2mmm set screws to make sure they'll never unscrew even after readjustment)

good luck

JayL

agreed!
for me two things matter most re gear stripping 2nd:

1st, as said, .3mm gap between shoes and bell in 2nd housing

2nd never run more than .3mm clutch play or the clutch bell will hit the 2nd housing

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Hey Guys, weighed my car today with tires on no fuel - 1750g is this a good weight - or can i reduce more somewhere?

GMartinez

iTrader: (91)

what tire size is currently on it now

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

the front and rear tires that i weighed are at 60mm.... using ATS tires on a serpant wheel

keavze

this is a very good weight (with shell and transponder hopefully), bearing in mind the legal min weight is 1725g race ready.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

For IFMAR/ROAR racing, your car is perfect weight, in my opinion. It is better to be a little bit more above weight than to have your car right near the limit and be disqualified from a race due to your car coming in underweight for some unforseen reason. That is about where my car weighs in.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

one thing i have done to lighten car i the following:


Titanium Screw kit top deck only
Drilled out Spurs for light weight
Light Weight Pinions - Alloy Standard
Light weight bell Housing
minimal Paint - meaning - one colour, no decals


I guess ever bit you lighten can help for sure!

bgrick

iTrader: (11)

The weight looks good, the only problem I see is after a race it could be under weight. If it is a high wear track for the tires. I know most guys like to put just plastic wheels (no tires or foam on wheel) and get the weight close. That way you know you will not go under for any reason.

Seisick

1725g with three tires is the way to go, that way you will never get under weight,

MTX4JR

Can anyone tell where is a good supplier for mtx4 and R parts i live in Florida and its getting harder and harder to get parts. Also any efforts to contact Mugen via e-mail have been a failure.


2nd What can be done to lighten the drive train on the car?

Thanks to everyone.

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

For drive train parts I would look no further than YB Slow. For standard parts check-out Ashford Hobbies

BLKNOTCH

iTrader: (10)

I have been getting all my parts for my Mugen at these three places:

http://www.fxrhobby.com/catalog/inde...cb51e8dd9a69a4

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/index.php?cPath=36_260

and then when all else fails Ebay is your friend