Roelof

2 things can be your issue in slow laps:

1) the car handles bad on bigger tires
In this case lowering the car or other setup changes are needed.

2) the motor has a lack of performance on bigger tires
In this case the easiest change is change the gearing but you can also play with the exhaust or manifold.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I really see now you car's problem: too heavy/too high cg/ overgeared with heavy chunky tires.....All the things that will make you two to three seconds a lap slower...
First thing to do is to document all the parts(weighed) that your competitors are using on their cars, on top of finding out what world champion 1/10 nitro racers use. The goal is to get similar performance parts in your car for cheap, that also reduce the overall weight under 1650grams(Roar minimum)...If they are running 200mm, you might need to run the same or at least be at 1650g with the weight of four regular 200mm tires+ body...220mm should be an advantage, but you will need to go on the net to get a specific setup for it...Please cut your manifold the same length as theirs with the same gearing as a starting point, and see if you can find someone running the same motor you run(get lots of clutch tuning tips)...After that, it's all about practice, yeah, practice,.....Cheers....

coupehdi

Thanks all for your help, yeah if i put it back to 200mm spec its around 1700grams now but the bigger tyres and body etc make it up around 1850. I've got the same pipe and manifold as the fast cars. my main problem is the last section of the track is all short low speed corners, everyone else is accelersting hard through this section but i cant do so as the back end always steps out so gotta go gently. Im hoping that if i tighten up my clutch nut or go to the hard spring rather than the medium (its an xray xca high dynamic) it might help, also ive got a rear diff with lighter oil ready to try aswell. Car is good on the straight and its quite good on the fast bends too. Im not expecting to be as fsst as the fsstest guys but id like to get a bit closer lol

1995 Monster T

All the clutch spring will do is launch later or higher with a heavy firm spring. You loose the low rpm.

Roelof

A clutch spring will have influence on the milae as well....

coupehdi

Thought id give an update. Went racing yesterday, had a blast, my best lap times ever.
What i changed was lower rear roll centre to help with oversteer on corner exit, changed from solid rear axle to 100k oil diff in the rear to also help with oversteer and a lower 1st gear pinion. Got a bit of understeer particularly on the down hill corners, might lower front roll centre and fit a diff to rhe front instead of a solid axle, but for now im just enjoying it. And even now that im getting a full lap extra i still have 1/4 tank of fuel left so i dunno maybe novarossis just dont drink as much lol

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear buddy....A little change goes a long way....

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

Uh, I was planning on visiting this track this summer but plans changed.

I'm pretty sure I know why you're 2 seconds off.

They run exclusively 1/8 Open and GT8 there from what the organizers told me. Which class are you entering your enlarged 1/10 in?

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

If the clutch engagement is set high, so the clutch is able to slip even when the car is moving fast, then yes, the exact RPM at which the clutch engages will have an effect on fuel economy. If the clutch engagement is set very low, so it engages slightly above idle, then the exact speed at which the clutch engages will have no effect on fuel economy. Of course, setting the clutch engagement high enough to slip when the car is moving fast will also shorten the lifespan of the clutch shoe(s), generate a lot of heat in the clutch bell and pinion gear(s), and potentially melt the spur gear(s), so there are multiple problems with doing that.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

😄

Roelof

Even when the clutch engage high but does not slip you can improve milage with a tiny lower engagement. Problem is that you will loose acceleration performance as well.

coupehdi

Hi guys, cars going alot better now so thanks for sll the help. But im still struggling to get around the low speed tight corners, it just wants to understeer. Im using the softest front rollbar and ahrdest rear, softest front tyre too etc but still it pushes. Its ok in fast more open bends just the slow tight ones, cureently im using a solid front axle, ive ordered a front one way to try that, does this sound like a good idea? I know u can't brake so easily with a oneway in, but i think thatll be ok as im used to that with racing other 2wd cars in tbe past.
thanks guys

coupehdi

Hi guys, cars going alot better now so thanks for sll the help. But im still struggling to get around the low speed tight corners, it just wants to understeer. Im using the softest front rollbar and ahrdest rear, softest front tyre too etc but still it pushes. Its ok in fast more open bends just the slow tight ones, cureently im using a solid front axle, ive ordered a front one way to try that, does this sound like a good idea? I know u can't brake so easily with a oneway in, but i think thatll be ok as im used to that with racing other 2wd cars in tbe past.
thanks guys

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

The problem with the softest roll bar is that it makes the car lazy, go harder roll bar and stiffer dampening/springs. It may seem that going softer gives you more grip, but its the other way around

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Does your car have a way of changing the height of the rear lower inner hinge pins? Raising the rear lower arm's inner pivot will definitely improve entry and middle steering. Also, reducing rear droop can aid initial turn in. Might also want to try more front toe out