Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
|
|||
#1501
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
One nice [ and I'm completely biased ] feature of kyosho cars is a new release is typically evolutionary rather than revolutionary - so you don't have to basically throw the old car away. Can just evolve it as you need to.
#1502
Sooo
My 2nd race plus one practice run, impressions and thoughts:
- 20g weight in front of rear bulkhead made a noticeable difference in overall stability, car became more... lets say predictable.
- Seems that K cars are sensitive to tire choice, and i'd say not too agressive in eating thread. MY prev teknos definitely were thread-hungry.
- No broken arms this time=)
- Setup i'm running is basically box stock, 16deg hubs@15, 37.5/27.5 shock oil w/5x1.5, 101/118 (afair) droop and 26/28 rh. And thats pretty good setup for tight tech med to hi grip track w/lot of hairpins. Can't even imagine what try to tune next. Maybe thats the point where K cars are good at: you have nothing to tune in, instead focus on driving/practice.
My 2nd race plus one practice run, impressions and thoughts:
- 20g weight in front of rear bulkhead made a noticeable difference in overall stability, car became more... lets say predictable.
- Seems that K cars are sensitive to tire choice, and i'd say not too agressive in eating thread. MY prev teknos definitely were thread-hungry.
- No broken arms this time=)
- Setup i'm running is basically box stock, 16deg hubs@15, 37.5/27.5 shock oil w/5x1.5, 101/118 (afair) droop and 26/28 rh. And thats pretty good setup for tight tech med to hi grip track w/lot of hairpins. Can't even imagine what try to tune next. Maybe thats the point where K cars are good at: you have nothing to tune in, instead focus on driving/practice.
#1503
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Trying "new" stuff, inclined C-hub. Should make it easier to drive and more stable during braking and transitions while decreasing front tire wear. Part # IF6B for the 7.5 and IF221 for the NEO/ST-RR versions, don't ask what is the difference, IDK. Use the outer carrier hole for the upper arm, should provide the same camber as before without adjusting anything, also use the rear Ackerman plate hole as the steering arm is different. If you fancy spending more and remaining stealth use IFW332, they are CNC.
#1504
Hey 30tooth the setup you posted, it's a good start for low grip?. Does the rear hub goes in hi roll center position, why the long camber link. Thanks in advance
#1505
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Hola! That setup is intended to work anywhere and will be updated once in a while. The rear hub can be run in HRC or LRC but with the inner bushing in the HRC position, try each see which one you prefer. The long camber link is to numb the rear a little regarding throttle inputs, together with the HRC should make the rear tires wear less, or at least keep them in the best working temperature. Gracias!
#1506
Hola! That setup is intended to work anywhere and will be updated once in a while. The rear hub can be run in HRC or LRC but with the inner bushing in the HRC position, try each see which one you prefer. The long camber link is to numb the rear a little regarding throttle inputs, together with the HRC should make the rear tires wear less, or at least keep them in the best working temperature. Gracias!
#1507
Do anyone know what KO servos Tebo uses in his buggy and truggy?
#1508
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
Ko RSx2 in buggy. Under the Hood: Jared Tebo -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News
Likely same in Truck. http://www.neobuggy.net/2015/06/21/u...-jared-tebo-4/
Likely same in Truck. http://www.neobuggy.net/2015/06/21/u...-jared-tebo-4/
#1509
Ko RSx2 in buggy. Under the Hood: Jared Tebo -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News
Likely same in Truck. Under the Hood: Jared Tebo -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News
Likely same in Truck. Under the Hood: Jared Tebo -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News
#1510
Tech Apprentice
Hi guys,
please can some of you explain the differences (and best track condition-use) of these lower front arms?
KYOIF487
KYOIF483B
KYOIF487H
KYOIF493
please can some of you explain the differences (and best track condition-use) of these lower front arms?
KYOIF487
KYOIF483B
KYOIF487H
KYOIF493
#1512
Thinking about picking one of these up, I know they fixed the a arm problem any other problems people are having?
#1513
[QUOTE=ravage;14920016]Thinking about picking one of these up, I know they fixed the a arm problem any other problems people are having?[/QUOTE
Everytthing on the car is good. 1 little thing I recommend is the m2c motor spacers. The clutch bell will hit the chassis without these and could cause clutch bell bearing failure and worst case which I've never encountered is a broken crankshaft. There only like $5 but well worth it. You won't be disappointed with the tki4 awsome car.
Everytthing on the car is good. 1 little thing I recommend is the m2c motor spacers. The clutch bell will hit the chassis without these and could cause clutch bell bearing failure and worst case which I've never encountered is a broken crankshaft. There only like $5 but well worth it. You won't be disappointed with the tki4 awsome car.
#1514
[QUOTE=Team_Orange;14920028]
Ok sweet i think I'm going to go with it. Is this what you are talking about? https://www.amainhobbies.com/m2c-rac...2c9610/p267815
Thinking about picking one of these up, I know they fixed the a arm problem any other problems people are having?[/QUOTE
Everytthing on the car is good. 1 little thing I recommend is the m2c motor spacers. The clutch bell will hit the chassis without these and could cause clutch bell bearing failure and worst case which I've never encountered is a broken crankshaft. There only like $5 but well worth it. You won't be disappointed with the tki4 awsome car.
Everytthing on the car is good. 1 little thing I recommend is the m2c motor spacers. The clutch bell will hit the chassis without these and could cause clutch bell bearing failure and worst case which I've never encountered is a broken crankshaft. There only like $5 but well worth it. You won't be disappointed with the tki4 awsome car.
#1515
personally i've never had a problem with the clutch bell hitting the chassis. yeah sure it hits but it's never been a problem. i.e flameouts, bearings.